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[NetStorm]

 

So I thought after updating to 3.228All my problems would go away....IE won't follow a scheduled event, won't turn off, etc...and they did, for a Lil while...now...Schedules will not work, active eye sensors will turn on a light if triggered, but will not turn off, the remote will turn it on, but not off, I even have a wall switch that turns on, but NOT off, even when the button is pushed, I have to use the slide switch to turn it off.Some days the light will not turn on at all, some days they will.
Nothing new has been added, checked the settings after my update, even swapped out switches, batteries and sensors same thing. So I am at wits end...don't know what to do
Help Auxilio

[HA Dave]

....IE won't follow a scheduled event, won't turn off, etc...and they did, for a Lil while...now...Schedules will not work, active eye sensors will turn on a light if triggered, but will not turn off, the remote will turn it on, but not off,

OK... I don't understand the "IE won't follow a scheduled event"... I don't know what that means. Are you using the AHP software?

The turning ON... but won't turn OFF sounds like your turning ON a device that (once ON) is putting noise on your powerline. That powerline noise then blocks or interferes with the switch or module that needs to hear the OFF signal. The little CFL or even halogin or LED bulbs can cause this.

[dave w]

 I even have a wall switch that turns on, but NOT off, even when the button is pushed, I have to use the slide switch to turn it off.

Help Auxilio

It turns ON with the button reliably, but will not turn OFF with the button?(!)

Besides that symptom above which is totally unexplainable, I agree with Dave_X10. It sounds like you have the typical "noise" and "phase coupling" issues that all new X10 set-ups have to resolve.

Search those terms on this forum IMHO one gangbuster repeater (XTB IIR [first choice]or ACT-234)fixes everything but the most terrible noise problems and a filter or two might be needed. Also try this great tutorial from Jeff Volp
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm

[Brian H]

Are the wall switches fairly new?
I believe the recent ones have soft start and do act differently.

Also what type of bulbs are being controlled by the problem switch?

[Knightrider]

I'm pretty sure that in this case, IE = i.e. (Id Est [that is to say]). Latin

[HA Dave]

.. IE = i.e. (Id Est [that is to say]). Latin

Latin.... well heck... I am still trying to learn English.

[NetStorm]

Will not follow the schedule event, means just that...come on at 630pm turn off, at 1000 and it will not turn off. The "devices" are run of the mill light bulbs not cfl or halogen, and YES I have a switch that once turned on by pushing the button,. WILL not turn off by pushing the button again. I had to use the slide switch to turn off.
Noise? They worked fine after installing, lasted about a moth or so and then started losing funcionality .
My socket rockets work the best the switches sometimes do somtimes donīt. I will read all that as suggested o me, just frustrated that the aetup that at one time was working great, has slowly been gong down hill.

Thanks

[NetStorm]

 
Ok so I read the soft start issues, regarding the new switches (mine are new) changed then to a two way lamp module (the LM14A) and same issue, will turn on with an active eye or the remote, WILL  NOT turn off using AHP interface or the turn off signal from the sensor or remote, I can turn the light on from the other side of the house, but will not turn off even iif standing next to the switch.
I have 2 LM14aīs that control two lamps, that are on a schedule, one of them uses a sensor after the schedule has passed and they work fine, I have 6 overhead lights (three are outside the house)that use schedules and sensors that use socket rockets and they work fine I have a switch inside the house that works off a sensor and that turns on and off fine, I have a PR511, that work fine when trigged the two switches that do not work, are otside, they control 2 overhead lights, and they refuse to work.  guess I am frustrated that they worked before. I have swapped out the switches (new one outside, old one inside) as soon as the new one turns on it will not turn off and the old one that was outside and now is inside works fine.
I have set the repeat feature on the schedule etc
Does anyone know what "Extended code 3 3b" means? the two light withes that I have the problem with are the nly ones that show that code in the activity monitor.
Oh, and something strange that shows up on my activity monitor is Recieve RF M Trackball  WHAT is that

[Boiler]

Ok so I read the soft start issues, regarding the new switches (mine are new) changed then to a two way lamp module (the LM14A) and same issue, will turn on with an active eye or the remote, WILL  NOT turn off using AHP interface or the turn off signal from the sensor or remote, I can turn the light on from the other side of the house, but will not turn off even iif standing next to the switch.

Normally when we hear of a module that turns on but won't turn off we assume that the connected load is a noise source.  Since you are using incandescent bulbs, that isn't the case here.  There is another symptom of powerline systems that can come into play.  A 60W bulb represents roughly a 240ohm load.  If you have a long branch line (or poor connection on the line) switching the bulb on will load the line down and reduce the X10 signal available at the module.  If your signal is already marginal, this can be the difference between successful communication and unsuccessful.  The higher the load wattage the more likely this is to occur. 

As others have indicated, this may be the result of a phase coupling problem at the panel or a signal absorber on this branch circuit.  You might try troubleshooting with different wattage loads or different dim levels at the lamp.  To be honest, I'd rather see you invest your time in "scrubbing" that branch circuit for possible problem devices (noise sources/absorbers) and determining which phase it is on.

The two switches that do not work, are otside, they control 2 overhead lights, and they refuse to work.  guess I am frustrated that they worked before. I have swapped out the switches (new one outside, old one inside) as soon as the new one turns on it will not turn off and the old one that was outside and now is inside works fine.
I have set the repeat feature on the schedule etc

You took the first steps in troublshooting with the above.  You've narrowed the problem down to your outside lamp branch circuit.  Try to determine if this is on the opposite phase from your CM15a.  If so you likely need a phase coupler or repeater at the panel.  I say this because outside lighting normally is on a dedicated branch circuit (no plug in problem devices on the circuit).  If this circuit does feed indoor outlets, please investigate for possible noise sources/absorbers as well.

Does anyone know what "Extended code 3 3b" means? the two light withes that I have the problem with are the nly ones that show that code in the activity monitor.
Oh, and something strange that shows up on my activity monitor is Recieve RF M Trackball  WHAT is that

The extended code 3 3B is an extended code "direct dim" command that is used with the LM14a units.  The CM15a is instructing the unit to go directly to light level "3B".  This is normal for this interface.

Receive RF M Trackball - You're receiving RF from housecode M.  I'm clueless on the Trackball reference.

I understand that it's frustrating when things break after they've been working for a period of time.  Unfortunately, the nature of X10 is that there are a number of plug in devices (chargers and such) that can affect the communication.  These innocuous little devices typically go unnoticed because they are so small.  The noise that they can produce isn't.  The real danger is that they are so portable, they can show up anywhere on your system.

I've just spent a week troubleshooting my X10/Insteon system.  From my system logs, I was having problems communicating with devices between 10 and 11 am and somewhere around 1 am in the morning.  I was looking for a noisemaker that was on some sort of schedule and was pulling my hair out.  Two nights ago I was having trouble sleeping and happened to hear my oldest son (recently back from college) brushing his teeth with his NEW electric toothbrush.  FOUND IT - the 1am and 10am problems were due to the toothbrush recharging (sounds like a 20 year old's schedule).  I purchased a new toothbrush for him (yes this was the problem) and added the problem unit to my box of "noise troubleshooting tools".  This nasty little device actually took my Cisco router off line when I plugged it into the same branch circuit.

Boiler

[dave w]

NetStorm

The wall switch that turns ON but will not turn OFF with the switch button, almost has to be a bad wall switch. External noise can not override the switch button. The ON-OFF toggle taking place at the switch button is controlled by the chip inside the switch, perhaps it has failed. Did the switch EVER work right?

Everything else you describe are classic descriptions of noise and phase coupling problems. You said the system worked fine for a month and then suddenly started to degrade...what did you get new? or what gear did you move to new locations in the house?

Boiler has some great examples and suggestions as has the other contributors in this thread. Since you have what appears to be phase and noise problems, do you have a repeater? If not I think a good one might take care of most of your problems, and a filter or two would solve the rest. IMHO

[NetStorm]

Thanks folks for all your replies, I will look into all your suggestions. I AM guilty of leaving cell phone chargers plugged in, on a switch in the bathroom, that is directly above the outside wall switches I am having problems with, coincidence? Do not know, but will unplug and see, I DO know,, that some security lights that I have, that are 150w fluorescent lamps WILL not allow 90 percent of my x10 devices to work, even though they are WAYYYYYYY outside in the front of the house. I no longer set them to automatic, have them turned off, and that helped a lot.
IN RESPONSE TO dave w  yes the light switch worked with a sensor at one time, then slowly went south, the sensor would turn it on not off, I could turn it off with the remote or AHP from the puter, then not even that. I will switch it out and see  It's behind a VERY heavy storage closet), so I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that, but will do so tomorrow. And nothing new has been added, I do not even have my puter hooked up to a UPS because I believe those cause havoc with the AHP interface. I DO have 9 security cameras (NOT X10)that go directly into the computer (hardwired) could those be an issue? Should I remove the AHP interface from the computer and see if that changes any thing?
Now, is it possible to build a phase coupler? Reason I ask, is I mentioned that and a noise filter to my electrician and he was like HUH? (you must understand though I live in South America so perhaps I didn't explain the term correctly ) A repeater at the panel was mentioned, forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean by a repeater? Also, I have several of the RTM75S around the house, because I assumed that they would boost signals...would that cause a problem?
I REALLY appreciate any and all help, I had X10 when I lived in the states, and NEVER had a problem, that is why I invested a good chunk of money into another x10system here in South A.
Be patient with me guys, I normally don't like to bother people with these things but the forums are much better than tech support (sorry if there are any x10 tech guys here) but those are the facts.

[dave w]

IN RESPONSE TO dave w  yes the light switch worked with a sensor at one time, then slowly went south, the sensor would turn it on not off, I could turn it off with the remote or AHP from the puter, then not even that. I will switch it out and see  It's behind a VERY heavy storage closet),

Now, is it possible to build a phase coupler? Reason I ask, is I mentioned that and a noise filter to my electrician and he was like HUH? (you must understand though I live in South America so perhaps I didn't explain the term correctly ) A repeater at the panel was mentioned, forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean by a repeater? Also, I have several of the RTM75S around the house, because I assumed that they would boost signals...would that cause a problem?
I REALLY appreciate any and all help, I had X10 when I lived in the states, and NEVER had a problem, that is why I invested a good chunk of money into another x10system here in South A.
Be patient with me guys, I normally don't like to bother people with these things but the forums are much better than tech support (sorry if there are any x10 tech guys here) but those are the facts.

regarding the switch working from the beginning, I was referring to the button not working. If the switch is behind a heavy cabinet, do you use the button?

I am not familiar with a RTM75S. The terms "repeater", "repeater coupler", or "coupler amp" refer to a device designed to amplify the X10 signal on the homes internal wiring. Can't speak to South America power convention, but North America is two 120V AC 60Hz lines and a neutral / ground feeding the home. 120V lights and appliances are powered by one of the 120V line and the neutral line. The two 120V lines are 180 degrees out of phase, so getting power for 220V appliances is accomplished by wiring the appliance across both 120V lines. Technically neutral is not used in a 220V appliance. A "Repeater" is used to amplify and couple the X10 powerline signal between the two 120V sources. A good (high output) repeater will boost the signal enough that filters may not be needed.They are reasonably complex so is probably nothing your electrician can fabricate (although the XTB IIR repeater is available as a kit for kit builders experienced at soldering).

http://jvde.us/xtb_index.htm
http://www.smarthome.com/4821AC/HomePro-Amplified-Coupler-Repeater-with-Repeated-Signal-Detection/p.aspx
http://www.smarthome.com/_/Technology_Bridges_Converters/X10_Compatible/_/1Qh/23X/nav.aspx?No=0

depending on where you are in South America, you might not have split phase/dual phase/ two phase, etc power. If your clock radio runs on 220V...delete this response 

[NetStorm]

The RTM75 is the antenna thingy that x10sells that you plug in to boost the signal.
The switch behind the storage cabinet worked at one time. Since it is behind the cabinet I was using a motion sensor to turn it on and off, when it quit I would use a thin rod to tap the button on and off when that quit I had to push the slider over to turn it off.
South America is 120 60hz (at least Colombia where I am at) just like the states.
Anywho, I am tempted to unplug them all, and start from scratch, one at a time, to see when and where I start having problems.
Thanks for the info and advice
Have a funny day

[Brian H]

RTM75 looks like a TM751 and PalmPad remote set. The 'R' usually indicates a Retail Packaged unit, that is sold in stores etc.
If the RTM75 tranceiver is the TM751 it has no power line receiver in it and can only be controlled by an X10 RF device like a PalmPad remote.
It also is not polite and will step on any other X10 signals on the power line as it can not see them on the power line.

[Dan Lawrence]

A Google search for the RTM75 revealed that X10 doesn't make it any more and 5 of the places listed in the Google search don't even have it any more.