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[raster69273]

Tom j.
[/quote]
 Soleus makes one with a scroll compressor that is < 300W (234W on my "Kill-A-Watt") however the compressor only lasts 32 days past the warranty expiration.
[/quote]
That's longer than most "SOLEUS" equipment.

[tom j]

The fuse in the AF120 is a time delay type. It is meant for momentary surges from motors etc. starting. I would also say the components in the filter are picked to accommodate momentary over currents. Just that a constant over current could damage them.

The Smarthome FilterLincs; both 10 and 5 amp filters. Have a soldered in time delay fuse.

The 5 amp X10 and X10Pro filters have no fuses and a constant overload can overheat the coils.

So are you saying that my frig is basically safe? and if it's rate at 15 do I have to concern myself about it possibly exceeding it. Might eventually wire in that x10 Pro 20 amp. Thanks!

Tom j.

[Brian H]

The time delay fuse should be able to take the momentary starting current and the 12 Amps is less then the 15 amps ACT says is the max.
Should work fine.

The specifications for the fuse in mine. Dainfuse 65TS 150H [yes 100% China] is 135% for an hour max. 5 sec to 2 minutes at 200%.

[tom j]

The time delay fuse should be able to take the momentary starting current and the 12 Amps is less then the 15 amps ACT says is the max.
Should work fine.

The specifications for the fuse in mine. Dainfuse 65TS 150H [yes 100% China] is 135% for an hour max. 5 sec to 2 minutes at 200%.

Great Thanks! seems to work fine any idea what the life expectancy on this unit might be China hmm....


Tom j.

[tom j]

The time delay fuse should be able to take the momentary starting current and the 12 Amps is less then the 15 amps ACT says is the max.
Should work fine.

The specifications for the fuse in mine. Dainfuse 65TS 150H [yes 100% China] is 135% for an hour max. 5 sec to 2 minutes at 200%.

Say where did you see those specs on the fuse, I don't remember seeing that.

Tom j.

[Brian H]

Googled 65TS and found the DAINFUSE web site. The AH120 spec. sheet shows a Littlefuse 326015 as a replacement. The time delay specifications maybe a UL or other agency thing, as most brands, I have seen,all have about the same delays.

[tom j]

The time delay fuse should be able to take the momentary starting current and the 12 Amps is less then the 15 amps ACT says is the max.
Should work fine.

The specifications for the fuse in mine. Dainfuse 65TS 150H [yes 100% China] is 135% for an hour max. 5 sec to 2 minutes at 200%.

Brain do you also have one of these? and what do you use it for, what kind of appliance?

Tom j.

[Brian H]

I do have one and it is in storage. I was going to use it on my APC BX1000 UPS but found the 10 Amp Smarthome FilterLinc fit my installation better. The FilterLinc has a passthrough outlet on the front that is not filtered and that is where I have my PLM [Power Line Modem for Insteon] plugged in. Yes I have a mix of protocols in my home.

[tom j]

I do have one and it is in storage. I was going to use it on my APC BX1000 UPS but found the 10 Amp Smarthome FilterLinc fit my installation better. The FilterLinc has a passthrough outlet on the front that is not filtered and that is where I have my PLM [Power Line Modem for Insteon] plugged in. Yes I have a mix of protocols in my home.

Say what would happen if my refrigerator exceeded the maximum current on the AH120? Think I'll plug in my Kill A Watt and check the maximum amperage. What do you think.

Tom j.

[tom j]

Well this didn't turn out as I would have hoped. The AF120 filter seemed to  have worked great for about 5 days or so then one day I came home and heard these strange sounds coming from the freg, I opened the door of the freezer, it's a side by side and heard something like sparking. It also appeared that the freezer was defrosting. Well I want to tell you I was freaked out. So I unplugged it from the and just plugged it in the wall after about an hour the freezer was cold again and everything appeared to n working correctly. I had just had the refrigerator serviced so I was extremely upset over the entire incident. Just wondering what you think happen I really didn't worry because of the fuse but apparently something happen seems like maybe it exceeded the current it was able to draw through the unit but it seems like that would have blown the fuse. Well back to the drawing board I guess. Any ideas what could of happen to cause this. 


Tom j.

[Brian H]

Hard to say it was the filter and not a nasty coincidence. May have failed even if the filter was not there. Yes on a severe overload the fuse would have blown, but the fuse and the breaker for the outlet have similar traits. In theory even if the filter was not there the beaker may have not tripped and the sparking may have happened. I hope that it does not happen again with the filter removed.

I have two friends with refrigerators and electronic controls that had problems.
One had a component that would open up on a brown out condition and in theory save the unit. Problem was they also sometime as they failed overheated and burned a hole in the floor. That one got a recall from the manufacturer. In their case the repair technician installed a different and safer replacement part.

My other friend had a PC Board in it, with a relay, to control the defrost and compressor cycles. In that case the runs on the board where engineered to just safe and after a length of time deteriorated. One day the relay pads burned a hole in the board. Had to have a new board installed and the technician said he always stocked one in the truck. 

I have been doing electronic stuff long enough to not say "that is impossible can't happen if that part is bad". Murphy and his law keep proving me incorrect.  So did the filter whack out the electronics. I don't think so but maybe.

[JeffVolp]

So, the fuse didn't blow?  Are you sure this wasn't just a normal defrost cycle?

The AF120 is a "T" filter, comprised of two 120KHz traps in series, with a capacitor shunt to ground (the leg of the "T").  That would have negligible effect on 60Hz power.  The 120KHz traps do have some series resistance, but that wouldn't be much different than running your fridge on an extension cord.  Perhaps the series resistance was just too high for the compressor to reliably start up.

Compressors pull a hefty surge of current when they start up, particularly if they try to restart immediately after they are shut off (before the pressure bleeds down).  You may have seen this with the lights briefly dimming while the compressor tries to start, and then you hear a click from its thermal limiter as it shuts off power for a minute or so.  If there was a momentary power interruption while the compressor was running, your fridge could have gotten into this mode.  But that might have caused the AF120 fuse to pop.

Jeff

[x10dude]

Sorry to read about your situation Tom. I've had my fridge running on the same fiilter for about 6 months now w/out any problems. As I had mentioned earlier, I also have another AF120 on my clothes washer, again, w/out any problems.

[tom j]

So, the fuse didn't blow?  Are you sure this wasn't just a normal defrost cycle?

The AF120 is a "T" filter, comprised of two 120KHz traps in series, with a capacitor shunt to ground (the leg of the "T").  That would have negligible effect on 60Hz power.  The 120KHz traps do have some series resistance, but that wouldn't be much different than running your fridge on an extension cord.  Perhaps the series resistance was just too high for the compressor to reliably start up.

Compressors pull a hefty surge of current when they start up, particularly if they try to restart immediately after they are shut off (before the pressure bleeds down).  You may have seen this with the lights briefly dimming while the compressor tries to start, and then you hear a click from its thermal limiter as it shuts off power for a minute or so.  If there was a momentary power interruption while the compressor was running, your fridge could have gotten into this mode.  But that might have caused the AF120 fuse to pop.

Jeff

Hi guys sorry it took so long to get back been out of town. But no it definitely wasen't the normal defrost cycles. I have one of those infrared thermometers and it gave me a reading of 50 degrees F plugged it back in and an hour later it was cooling properly. But I was thinking the same thing that the fuse should have blown but it didn't. And there's another thing the blower motor is sometimes still making a funny sound it definitely wasen't doing this before. I don't know what happen but I'm really upset because I just had this unit fixed had to replace the defrost heater it was accumulating ice on the freezer side and before I used the AF120 the refrigerator after being serviced was running perfectly. Going to use my Kill A Watt type device to measure the maximum current my freg puts out maybe it was exceeded and caused this. Any idea's? Thanks!


Tom j.

[tom j]

Sorry to read about your situation Tom. I've had my fridge running on the same fiilter for about 6 months now w/out any problems. As I had mentioned earlier, I also have another AF120 on my clothes washer, again, w/out any problems.

Thanks for your feedback I'm really glad yours is working for you! I was thinking about keeping it and trying it on something else but I've lost faith in it now, got a letter from the manufacturer that I think you guys will find interesting and will post it entirety. Thanks to all that gave me a hand on this.

Tom j.