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[Deemar]

sigh...Yes, Universal Module requires an outlet.

Plug Universal Module into same outlet as the opener and connect module contacts to opener,  not the wall switch. Since X10 signalling is far from infallible, you should put a magnetic window / door switch in series with this control line so the Universal Module can only close the garage door, never open it. You would mount the magnetic switch so it is closed only when the door is up.

Hire an electrician is safest way.

Ohhhhhhhhhh..........now I get it. So ignore the switch on the wall and wire it to the motor on the ceiling. So I'd have to open it up and find where the contacts are inside, then wire the universal module to each side of the contacts? And there is an outlet on the ceiling next to the unit.

[dave w]

 

[Deemar]

So how would I open up the fireplace to wire it to a universal module? Would that be controlled by one of those non dimming switches instead? It's currently just a light switch on the wall that turns it on.

[Brian H]

It depends on exactly what the manual switch controls.

If it is a low voltage signal a universal module could do it.

If it is line voltage; then a NON dimming X10 switch could be used. Note that would need a Neutral power wire in the switch box. The two wire dimming type that use the bulb to supply power. Would not work.

[Deemar]

sigh...Yes, Universal Module requires an outlet.

Plug Universal Module into same outlet as the opener and connect module contacts to opener,  not the wall switch. Since X10 signalling is far from infallible, you should put a magnetic window / door switch in series with this control line so the Universal Module can only close the garage door, never open it. You would mount the magnetic switch so it is closed only when the door is up.

Hire an electrician is safest way.

Ohhhhhhhhhh..........now I get it. So ignore the switch on the wall and wire it to the motor on the ceiling. So I'd have to open it up and find where the contacts are inside, then wire the universal module to each side of the contacts? And there is an outlet on the ceiling next to the unit.

Okay so it's been a while but I got a bit of time to do this now. I haven't ordered the unit yet but I have a few questions on hooking it up to the garage door opener motor.
Are you sure there's a way to put this UM506 unit (or something similar) inside the motor and have it connect 2 wires to open the door? Will this work even though the switch on the wall is not being pressed? Is power even getting to the motor at all without the wall switch being pressed?

[Brian H]

No the UM506 plugs into a wall outlet.
The output screws on the UM506 connect across the push button on the wall that presently opens and closes it.
As dave w indicated the UM506 could also be wired to the terminals on the opener where the wall button connects to.

[dave w]

Are you sure there's a way to put this UM506 unit (or something similar) inside the motor and have it connect 2 wires to open the door? Will this work even though the switch on the wall is not being pressed? Is power even getting to the motor at all without the wall switch being pressed?

You don't need to open the lifter unit. The contacts where the wall switch is connected should be available on the back of the unit. Do you have an electrician friend?

[Deemar]

Are you sure there's a way to put this UM506 unit (or something similar) inside the motor and have it connect 2 wires to open the door? Will this work even though the switch on the wall is not being pressed? Is power even getting to the motor at all without the wall switch being pressed?

You don't need to open the lifter unit. The contacts where the wall switch is connected should be available on the back of the unit. Do you have an electrician friend?

Ah, brilliant idea! So find where the wall switch connects to the unit and use those contacts, that makes sense. I do have an electrician friend but I'm pretty sure I can do this. I just need to borrow a ladder so I can see up there. I'll still have to take the case off the unit though to get at the wires.

[Deemar]

Crystal ball is broke, does the switch control 120V to the fireplace or is it a low voltage ignition control line. Low voltage controls are common and a "Universal Module" would be needed for that. The UM506 "Universal Module" requires a 120V outlet and gives you a contact closure. X10 does not make a "wall switch" to control low voltages. If the switch is controlling 120V a WS13A should work.

How do I find out what the details are with my fireplace and the switch?

[dave w]

Gee Boomer, that's like me asking you where I parked my car at the mall.

1. Have any instructions for the fireplace?
2. Turn the fire off and look around in the fireplace for manufaturer and model number then Google it.
3. Is there access from behind the fireplace to look for 120V line?
4. Who installed the fireplace? call them.
5. Measure the voltage across the switch when the fireplace is off. 120V or 5V??

[Knightrider]

My gas logs are made by DESA, and run on a 9v battery.  There's a switch on the base of the unit that says ON-OFF-REMOTE, and a port to put the same switch into the wall for easy access.  They have no 120 running to them, and there's no fan.  If the ignition system required 120, the gas logs would be useless in a power outage as a back-up heat source.  I change the battery about once a year, but am willing to bet it would last much longer.

[dave w]

If the ignition system required 120, the gas logs would be useless in a power outage as a back-up heat source. 

Yeah, one would think so. However look at the O.P. item #3. That is why I am wondering about 120V.

[Knightrider]

I should also note that mine are simply on or off.  The remote has a thermostat in it that controls the on/off.  I've seen nicer units with modulating gas valves that will change the intensity of the flames accordingly.  I'll bet that runs 120v.

[Brian H]

OP #3 does seem to indicate a 120 volt control.
I hope the user can clear this up.

[Deemar]

I took a look at the unit last night and the only marking on it is the manufacturer, Majestic. It's built into the corner of the living room with a large mantle surrounding it and vents directly outside. There are some fake logs inside with a pilot light constantly on and the glass is very warm to the touch, even when it's off. The pilot light alone makes it uncomfortable warm to stand near it when it's warm out like today.

What if I turned off all the power to the house at the breaker panel and then tried to turn it on. Would that confirm it's not 120?