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[jeffdharlan]

I have two floor lamps using the lamp modules (a4 address) in the same room.  I have been using SH624 with the lamp modules at the A4 address with no problems...they both light on and off with one click of the remote's button.  I just bought 4 HR12A remotes since they can control more than 4 X10 devices per house code.  Without changing the code the A4 on and off buttons just don't seem to do either very consistently.  It seems they work fine for a few clicks on and off after I plug in the lamp modules.  But after a few cycles on and off they seem to stay off and not respond.  At this point I used the SH624 with one click on and they come right on.  I am using the Active Home Pro CM15A tranceiver only which is plugged in the same room but not the same outlet as either lamp.  Assuming I have some noise on the lines, does the SH624 just send a stronger signal to the transceiver than the HR12A?  I just can't figure it out.

Side note, on the floor above (I live in a 4 level split) I can turn on some lights using the Socket Rocket modules with one click of the HR12A with no problems at all.  This occurs while I am standing in the room with the tranceiver, same as described above.  These modules are MUCH farther away than the transceiver is the lamp modules and work perfect.

I am a bit sad that these new remotes don't seem to mesh well with the x10 plugged in devices.  Maybe I am missing a big point here...your advise is very welcome!  I am using brand new energizer batteries (non rechargeable).

Hopefully I didn't miss another post on this issue.  I did some searching but nothing was found that seemed similar.

[jeffdharlan]

The CM15A must have locked up.  Once I pulled the batteries and unplugged it, it worked when plugged back in.   Not sure why the SH624 still worked, but both work great now.  Anyone know what causes the CM15A to lock up?

[HA Dave]

The CM15A must have locked up.  Once I pulled the batteries and unplugged it, it worked when plugged back in.  Not sure why the SH624 still worked, but both work great now.  Anyone know what causes the CM15A to lock up?

You are (I am just guessing here) apparently running both a DS7000 security console... and a CM15A. And I would guess your transceiving the DS7000's codes on the CM15A (and using the AHP software and maybe macros). [still just guessing] maybe you discovered you had a phase issue.. and plugged in the security console and the CM15A in different areas thinking each could cover what the other didn't.

Now... all you would need to do would be write a macro that rebroadcasts the DS7000 RF codes so it would flash lights throughout the house. That is called a looping macro. And it will freeze (and can even damage) your CM15A.

Not saying you did this... but more info from you would mean a lot less to guess about.

[Brian H]

Both the CM15A and DS7000's console can transceive RF signals from both the HR12A and the X10 function buttons on the SH624 remotes.
It is possible that in some areas both where receiving the RF signal and stepping on each other or each was covering an area of the home the other was not reaching.

On the CM15A. Is the House Code in question set to be transceived? If not it will not send any X10 power line signals from RF remotes it receives.

[jeffdharlan]

Thank you for your input!

You are (I am just guessing here) apparently running both a DS7000 security console... and a CM15A. And I would guess your transceiving the DS7000's codes on the CM15A (and using the AHP software and maybe macros). [still just guessing] maybe you discovered you had a phase issue.. and plugged in the security console and the CM15A in different areas thinking each could cover what the other didn't.

Now... all you would need to do would be write a macro that rebroadcasts the DS7000 RF codes so it would flash lights throughout the house. That is called a looping macro. And it will freeze (and can even damage) your CM15A.

Not saying you did this... but more info from you would mean a lot less to guess about.

I was not running both when I tested the remotes.  I did however have both running when I was programming some Socket Rockets that came in the mail with the new remotes.

Both the CM15A and DS7000's console can transceive RF signals from both the HR12A and the X10 function buttons on the SH624 remotes.
It is possible that in some areas both where receiving the RF signal and stepping on each other or each was covering an area of the home the other was not reaching.

On the CM15A. Is the House Code in question set to be transceived? If not it will not send any X10 power line signals from RF remotes it receives.

I have the CM15A tranceiving the House Code A, in fact it is also doing B.  These lamp modules were working with the CM15A before yesterday when I started using the new remotes.

That being said...I NEED to have both the DS7000 and the CM15A running for security and automation.  Are you saying this is will most likely cause conflict with the CM15A?  Do I need to separate House Codes, i.e. set the DS7000 to House Code B and set the CM15A to not tranceive House Code B?  How will that affect me using/monitoring the security devices (i.e. Security Motion Sensor and Door/Window Sensors) in ActiveHome Pro?

I eventually want to put a phase coupler in to fix my basement/downstairs discontinuity with the 2 upstairs floors, but I cannot do that right now.  I was hoping to use either more tranceivers or the DS7000 to carry the load.  Now I wonder if putting another tranceiver in the house will make matters worse...

I am still learning all this so I could be way off on my assumptions.  If so, go easy on me 

[HA Dave]

I eventually want to put a phase coupler in to fix my basement/downstairs discontinuity with the 2 upstairs floors, but I cannot do that right now.  I was hoping to use either more tranceivers or the DS7000 to carry the load.  Now I wonder if putting another tranceiver in the house will make matters worse...

I messed around with a typical phase issue myself... much longer than I like to admit. All it took to resolve my problems was a dryer plug passive phase coupler.

Adding more transceivers to your powerlines may just make things worse. Your CM15A can hear (receive) a signal and even send a signal... yet not need be set to transceive (receive the RF signal, and in return place a signal on the powerline) the entire house code.

As much fun as X10 is... I can tell you from my own experience.. its a heck of a lot more fun when everything works right.

[jeffdharlan]

I messed around with a typical phase issue myself... much longer than I like to admit. All it took to resolve my problems was a dryer plug passive phase coupler.

Thank you SOOO much for this link!  I was worried about installing a phase coupler myself!  This looks like an easy solution, and if it were to not work, I can easily pull it out and return it 

  As much fun as X10 is... I can tell you from my own experience.. its a heck of a lot more fun when everything works right.

I whole-heartedly agree!  It is fun, but it is taking a bit for my wife to get used to using a remote and not light switches.  I think I will eventually replace the Socket Rockets with X10 wall switches.  Would you say one is better than the other?

[jeffdharlan]

Dave,

What about this one? http://www.smarthome.com/4826A/SignaLinc-4-Pin-Plug-in-Coupler-Repeater/p.aspx

I see it also amplifies the signal.  Have you heard whether these are worth using or is a coupler sufficient (in most cases)?  I have a 1600 sq ft home - the website  suggests using it for 3000+sq ft homes.  I have always wondered if it is better to amplify the signal or try to cut the noise in the lines with a whole-house noise filter.  I would prefer the best bang the buck that doesn't involve paying an electrician whenever it is safe, easy and legal 

[dave w]

Dave,
  I have always wondered if it is better to amplify the signal or try to cut the noise in the lines with a whole-house noise filter.  I would prefer the best bang the buck that doesn't involve paying an electrician whenever it is safe, easy and legal 

$0.02 from another Dave. The "whole house filter" will not stop noise sources inside the house. It stops noise and external X10 signals from coming in to house, and noise and X10 signals from going out of house, but can't do anything for noise floating around inside the house. Noise must be stopped at the source.

I believe in using a blowtorch repeater (XTBIIR or ACT234) to blast through noise, and filter only the worst offender. Our home is full of noise sources, a dozen or more switching power supplies, an equal number of CFLs which "peg the meter" on my ELK X10 noise level meter when lit, I have a signal sucking microwave oven and a problem TV. With a good repeater I only have to filter the microwave. Which economically is lot better than a dozen or more fliters. FWIW

[HA Dave]

What about this one? http://www.smarthome.com/4826A/SignaLinc-4-Pin-Plug-in-Coupler-Repeater/p.aspx

I see it also amplifies the signal.  Have you heard whether these are worth using or is a coupler sufficient (in most cases)?

I can't really address.. most cases.. all homes and setups are different and can vary greatly. AMP-repeaters are very much the way to go.

  I have a 1600 sq ft home - the website  suggests using it for 3000+sq ft homes.  I have always wondered if it is better to amplify the signal or try to cut the noise in the lines with a whole-house noise filter.  I would prefer the best bang the buck that doesn't involve paying an electrician whenever it is safe, easy and legal 

That may be the best product for you (and ME)... make sure you select the correct wiring configuration to fit your dryer.

[JMac]

I use the SignaLinc three pin phase coupler - my house is approximately 2000 sq ft, and this one works for me.  But, I also have made an antenna mod to the CM15A and use a WGL V572RF32 transceiver to amplify received RF signals.  I can't really answer whether or not you need the repeater version phase coupler.  I will say though that the WGL transceiver made a world of difference in the reliability of all remotes in and around my house.