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[hdtvluvr]

I have used one of those wireless doorbell extenders in the past but they only last a couple of years. I stumbled onto an X10 solution using a Elk doorbell detector, an X10 powerflash module and an X10 chime module.

I located the doorbell transformer. It is in the electrical box behind the doorbell unit. The electrical box is at least 5 if not 6 inches wide. There is plenty of room for the doorbell detector. The powerflash module is the problem. The doorbell is located on the first floor of my home and there isn't any way (other than cutting, patching and painting sheetrock) to run a wire to an outlet in order to attach to the powerflash module and then plug the module into an outlet.

Is there some way I can attach the powerflash module to the 110V wires inside the electrical box? Do they make a wireable powerflash module or do all of them have to plug into a wall outlet?

I'd really like to have an X10 solution but I don't know how to accomplish this. Any help is appreciated.

[Mellowmark]

Is there any way to intercept the doorbell low volt conductors in the basement or at the door some how and work around the actual bell location. 

[twood]

The simple solution to your problem is to cut an extension cord about six inches from the female end and wire nut it to the 120V wires that power the transformer.  The ribbed wire of the cord is the neutral conductor (corresponds to the taller female plug opening) and attaches to the white 120V conductor.  Then just plug your powerflash module into the pigtail in your box.

[hdtvluvr]

Is there any way to intercept the doorbell low volt conductors in the basement or at the door some how and work around the actual bell location. 

Well, according to the wiring diagram the doorbell detector has to be connected between the transformer and the door chime.
Here's a link.
http://www.smarthome.com/images/1221-diagram.jpg

The simple solution to your problem is to cut an extension cord about six inches from the female end and wire nut it to the 120V wires that power the transformer.  The ribbed wire of the cord is the neutral conductor (corresponds to the taller female plug opening) and attaches to the white 120V conductor.  Then just plug your powerflash module into the pigtail in your box.

Is it legal to have a plug (part of the extension cord) inside an electrical box in this fashion? I assume the transformer will supply some heat. Would this cause problems with the powerflash module? What are the dimensions of the powerflash module?

How loud is a chime module?

[Brian H]

I have the ELK930 Doorbell Detector and have one tip for you.
My Powerflash is set to Input B and Mode 3. That gives you a dry contact closure trigger and an X10 On when closed and an X10 Off when opened.

Is there any AC outlets fairly close to the transformer; where the ELK930 would go? I have maybe 30 feet of #22-2 wire between my ELK930 Output and the Powerflash Input. That is in a close outlet to the transformer position.

The ELK930 has a solid state output and is polarity sensitive.
Connect the Out terminal of the ELK930 to the Negative input of the Powerflash.
Connect the Neg terminal of the ELK930 to the Positive input of the Powerflash.

OK for those thinking Brian H you reversed the polarity. Well Input B the Powerflash generates a small trigger voltage and it is reverse of the markings on the case. Positive is on the terminal marked negative and negative on the terminal marked positive. 
The plus and negative markings are for when a DC voltage is used to trigger it in Input A mode.

As mentioned. You could also wire the Powerflash Inputs across the bell and use Input A Low Voltage Trigger; if the bell is 18 volts or less. Wiring would not be the way Smarthome shows; as it uses the ELK930. Direct input voltage would not need the ELK930 at all. So if you can get the voltage that rings the bell to the Powerflash. It can be triggered directly and the ELK930 would not be needed.

The X10 PF284 and the X10Pro PSC01 are the same module. Some vendors sell the X10 and some the X10Pro.

http://www.x10pro.com/  In the Installation Manuals Tab you can find the PSC01.
http://www.elkproducts.com/products/elk-930.htm
http://www.elkproducts.com/pdf/930-instructions.pdf

As you can see from the ELK930 manual. It is three small PC Boards that can be split from each other. You get two bell detector boards and telephone ringing detector board. I was thinking of using my phone one and a Powerflash to trigger a X10 Chime Module.

[Mellowmark]

Well, according to the wiring diagram the doorbell detector has to be connected between the transformer and the door chime.
Here's a link

I'm a Little slow and do not have any of the door bell detectors. So are you still using the original bell? Or can we do away with it and just set the door buttons to operate the powerflash

If not maybe you can intercept them and use the buttons to input the x10 then use another device to trigger the original bell.  IE. another powerflash or hard wire the lowvolt and power the transformer with a in-line device.

[twood]

Is it legal to have a plug (part of the extension cord) inside an electrical box in this fashion? I assume the transformer will supply some heat. Would this cause problems with the powerflash module? What are the dimensions of the powerflash module?

How loud is a chime module?

Legal?  I don't know your local codes.  Safe?  Yes, if the box is as roomy as you say.  I have done this for many years to eliminate the wall warts associated with telephones and irrigation controllers.  The powerflash module will generate far less heat than any power supply.

The chime module volume is comparable with most doorbells, although it's tone is a little less "domesticated" (higher-pitched).  The good news is--if it's not loud enough--you can pug additional modules in anywhere you need them.

[hdtvluvr]

Is there any AC outlets fairly close to the transformer; where the ELK930 would go? I have maybe 30 feet of #22-2 wire between my ELK930 Output and the Powerflash Input. That is in a close outlet to the transformer position.

Without removing sheetrock, I can not get the wire that goes to the powerflash to an outlet.

As mentioned. You could also wire the Powerflash Inputs across the bell and use Input A Low Voltage Trigger; if the bell is 18 volts or less. Wiring would not be the way Smarthome shows; as it uses the ELK930. Direct input voltage would not need the ELK930 at all. So if you can get the voltage that rings the bell to the Powerflash. It can be triggered directly and the ELK930 would not be needed.

The doorbell is 16V. How would I wire it to the bell and remove the Elk930 from the circuit? I'm all for saving money and especially since I can't just buy 1 of the doorbell detectors. I don't have a need for 2 or the phone detector.

It appears that the wiring goes from the doorbell chime up the wall to the ceiling and then over to the door. Of course above the ceiling is the second floor so there isn't any way to intercept the wiring between there and the door except for inside the electrical box behind the doorbell chime.

[hdtvluvr]

The powerflash module will generate far less heat than any power supply.

I was referring to would it be ok to put the powerflash in the box with the transformer because of the heat generated by the transformer. I don't know how hot it gets in the box and wouldn't want the heat to damage the powerflash.

I'm hoping X10 is more robust/reliable and will last years instead of just 2 or 3.

[hdtvluvr]

I only have a front door button.

Removing the doorbell detector:
Looking at the wiring diagram in my link above, would the powerflash module be wired so the input would be connected to the doorbell button and the negative be connected to the front door input of the doorbell? The diagram shows Max rating 12V, 40 mA. Is this the max acceptable by the powerflash module or is it the max output of the doorbell detector?

If wiring it directly works then why would anyone use the doorbell detector?

Also, would a quick press of the doorbell button which would chime the doorbell be a long enough push to also activate the powerflash module and it have time to sent the X10 signal?

[Brian H]

OK. It sounds like you have.
The 16V power transformer is the box behind the bell.
In the box one of the 16V power wires from the transformer goes to a terminal on the bell.
The other 16V power wire goes up and over to the bells push switch.
The other side of the push switch goes back to the bells other connection.
If the bell has two terminals. You can connect the Powerflash Input terminal to the two on the bell. Set the Input to A. Mode 3. You would still have to get AC to the Powerflash. The wire from the bell to the Powerflash input is not high current or voltage. So #22 wire should be fine.

So in your diagram. Don't cut the splice as shown and connect the Powerflash to the transformer terminal and the front door terminal. Though it sounds like you just have a single bell with two terminals and the Powerflash just connects to them.

My install is different. I have both a front and back bell {ding-dong and ding}. Transformer is in the cellar. Wiring to push buttons scattered all through the home. Bell in Kitchen. In my case the ELK930 was perfect. It senses the bell current for both the front and back through the common transformer wire. Triggering the Powerflash.

So not all setups need an ELK930. Depends on the houses setup. Like one or dual bell sounds. Transformer location with relation to the rest of the bells wiring.

[hdtvluvr]

The transformer is in the box behind the bell.
It is wired as you describe except the bell has 3 terminals. One terminal (for a back door button) isn't used because I don't have a button at the back door. Based on your wiring description, it is the same as my current setup using a wireless doorbell extender (now dead). The transmitter is wired to the 2 terminals on the bell.

I believe I have room to splice in a cut extension cord onto the 110V wires feeding the transformer. After thinking about this, the powerflash unit is out of sight and should not come unplugged on it's on and therefore should not be a hazard.

Thanks for all of the help. I have ordered the powerflash and chime units. I'll let you know how it goes.

[Mellowmark]

Why not just get rid of the transformer and the original door bell equipment and just put the power flash unit in the  6 inch box and wire the button right to it.  then put your chimes  wherever. You could cover the box with  a steel flat cover and hang a picture  or paint it to match.

It sounds like you have the 120volt and switch leg to door button in the box. You should only need that to use the x10 chime..  The door button should be able to trigger any sequence of events with the powerflash set to use the dry contacts.

[Brian H]

Yes with the front connected should be fine.
Did a quick test with a Powerflash and my chime module. Even a brief {taped the bell button} input. The Powerflash sends the On signal and even if it then sends the Off. After the chime has started its cycle. It will finish and not cut off short.

Also in my setup. I have two chime modules on the same address as the Powerflash. One at the far end of the house and one in the cellar. In both locations. Hearing the doorbell was impossible. Also I have a TR16A Touchtone Responder with the third security code wheel on the same address. So when the phone rings I also know it in the cellar. Though I don't know if someone rang the bell or the phone was ringing. 
I could have used the 1/3 of the ELK930 phone detector, but the TR16 was installed already and lets me touchtone control my lights by phone.

[Noam]

From a wiring safety standpoint, is there any way to add an outlet on the wall above/beside/below the doorbell chime, and plug in the powerflash there?

you generally don't want to enclose anything that wasn't designed to be enclosed (like the powerflash module).