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Author Topic: Door / Window sensor chimes console but LED on Console stays on.  (Read 9202 times)

everydayflyer

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I have one  Door / Window sensor that will chime the console but the console shows an open circuit (LED stays on). If I move the console closer to this sensor it works fine. Distance is 70 feet but sensor is inside of an aluminum out building. Would using a longer wire on the switch help? I assume the sensor(transmitter) uses the switch wire as an antenna.

Are these Transmitters fussy about batter voltage levels? Right now I have freshly charged Sanyo Eneloops (rechargeable NiMH) in it but that means voltage is 2.6 instead of 3.2 as with fresh non re chargables.
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Brian H

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Re: Door / Window sensor chimes console but LED on Console stays on.
« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2010, 06:00:46 AM »

A longer wire to the switch will not make any difference. The transmitting antenna is inside the module itself. Only thing a longer wire could do is allow you to mount the sensor itself higher or closer to the console.

Is the sensor mounted directly on an aluminum surface? That could be a problem. It should be at least 1" off of any metal. Maybe on a piece of wood.

I see in another thread the passive antenna was brought up.

The rechargeable battery has a lower voltage and will also make the signal weaker. Try an alkaline battery.
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everydayflyer

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Re: Door / Window sensor chimes console but LED on Console stays on.
« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2010, 12:00:47 PM »

I wasn't thinking as of course 2.4 uses a very short antenna.

Tried a search but no luck on finding passive antenna mods.

Still seems a bit odd that the problem sensor chims  the console in Run2 mode but will not arm as the LED on console shows it as open.  Must be a fine line between works and all most works.

Thanks for they reply.
« Last Edit: April 19, 2010, 12:09:21 PM by everydayflyer »
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dave w

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Re: Door / Window sensor chimes console but LED on Console stays on.
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2010, 12:21:26 PM »

I wasn't thinking as of course 2.4 uses a very short antenna.

Tried a search but no luck on finding passive antenna mods.


Only the cameras use 2.4gHz, the security transmitters are using 310mHz.

Search for "Passive Radiator".

I use them on Slim Line switches and motion detectors, both of which have their internal antennas near the upper left corner of the unit. The radiator should be close to the internal antenna for best performance. I don't know where the internal antenna on the security transmitter is, so you may try the radiator on both sides to see which gives best performance, or open the unit and look for the little single turn copper wire loop which serves as the antenna and mount the radiator on that side of the transmitter.

As far as your other thread. Yeah, I think you will get better range using the lithium cell as opposed to the Enerloops. But I think you might be a little overkill using any type of rechargeable cell compared to alkaline. In most cases the alkalines will last a year or more. I don't think even the Enerloops will give you a charged shelf life that long(?).
« Last Edit: April 19, 2010, 12:36:01 PM by dave w »
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pconroy

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dave w

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Re: Door / Window sensor chimes console but LED on Console stays on.
« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2010, 04:01:17 PM »

Search for "Passive Radiator".

http://jvde.us/x10/passive.pdf

I think...

yup good example.

"Everyday",
I have my radiator/repeater mounted vertically on left side of Slim Line switch and it works well there also. Don't know best mount position for a DS10, but if you have the antenna on the console extended vertically, you will get better performance if you mount the radiator vertically also.
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Brian H

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Re: Door / Window sensor chimes console but LED on Console stays on.
« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2010, 04:20:31 PM »

The SS13A photos from the FCC site seem to show the PCB Antenna being on the left side when looking at the front. So I would think the passive radiator would work well there also.
Can't find any data on the DS10 on the FCC site except the frequency used is the standard 310MHz.
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everydayflyer

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Re: Door / Window sensor chimes console but LED on Console stays on.
« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2010, 04:39:31 PM »

Thanks guys. Added a passive antenna and it seems to be working great,only time will tell for sure.

FYI  The Sanyo Eneloops have an extremely low self discharge rate. I have had them last well over a year in TV , DVD ,remotes that get used a lot.

I fly Radio Control aircraft and use them in my transmitters which draw 150 mA while on and they last around 10 hours even if spread out over a perion of several months. I  have many Transmiters and some do not used all that often.

I prefer to spend $2.50 for a battery that can be recharged 500 to 1,000 times to spending $0.50 for a one shot one.  As I mentioned I can allways use a single cell LiFePO4 which is 3.3 volts and they self discharge less than 5% in a year and hold voltage extremely well until almost empty.

Now own to find a good glass break detector that is not to expensive. livingroom / kitchen has 6 windows, bedroom 3 and my computer, Ham Radio,RC room has 2. Rather use one that hears and has 25 foot range.
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Brian H

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Re: Door / Window sensor chimes console but LED on Console stays on.
« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2010, 04:52:20 PM »

Please keep us informed on the batteries performance over time.
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everydayflyer

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Re: Door / Window sensor chimes console but LED on Console stays on.
« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2010, 05:51:15 PM »

Here is a 6 month test conducted by a friend of mine.


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6779750&postcount=1



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