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[mcbbcn]

Hi all, 

I'm planning to have my PC control the garage door.  I assume that I just need the Active Home Pro software and the UM506.  The first question is: Do I need anything else?

The second question is:  I would like for X10 to only be able to close my garage door, not open it.  In the future, I may consider allow X10 to open it, but for now, I just would like to be able to close it. How would you do that?

Just for context, I use the Liftmaster Elite Series 3800 opener: http://www.liftmaster.com/consumerweb/products/pflResidentialJackshaft.htm

Thanks for your help,

Miquel

[Brian H]

I downloaded the manual for the opener and you may have a problem.

The wall mounted controller looks like it is an intelligent controller. Power and control signals are all on one two wire pair. Using a UM506 to simulate a simple switch push may not work. If there is power on the wires you will short the supply out.

I just downloaded the Wall Mounted Controllers Manual and the sales page indicates it uses 315MHz RF. So the two wires from the opener may just be power or have signals on it also and the RF is for things like remote lights.

[dave w]

The easiest way to prevent Universal Module from raising the garage door is to wire a magnetic window switch in series with the Universal Module which is wired to short across the lifters wired wall switch switch (more on this, I saw Brian's comment that your wired switch is a multi control). Position the magnet for the window switch so they line up only when the door is open. Thus when the door is closed the window switch is open and the Universal Module can not short across the wall switch.

Our garage door opener also has multi control function, however it works by varying current levels back to the opener. So a dead short is the opener activation signal. Higher resistance shorts result in garage light control and "Vacation" control. This does not mean the Lift Master works the same way,  but since it is a fail safe way of operating the wired switch circuit in the event an owner likes his old door bell style button, or wants to use one of the "universal" electronic combination keypads, I bet it does. 

[mcbbcn]

Brian and Dave,

Thanks for your help.  I have a couple of questions.

One for Brian:

What would be the best way to resolve the problem that you are calling out?

A couple of questions for Dave:

Where do you get a magnetic window switch to connect to the UM?  Do you have a part number or company that sell them?

How do you vary the current levels?  Does the UM do that?

Thanks again for all your help,

M.

[Brian H]

dave w; The manual does not show any override push button switch. Though they may not be making that general knowledge. In fact they say if you want added remote positions. Use their RF wall mounted controller, as only one master controller can be used.

To vary the current. You would have to pick a resistor to put in series with one of the UM506s output terminals and the wire going to the openers control. The resistance maybe be a trial and error to get the proper current.
If it acts like dave w.'s does. The you would not have to use a current limiting resistor.

If it does not use different currents for functions and there is only power on the pair of wires. I am not sure exactly how to do it. A hack of the controllers buttons maybe or a less invasive added RF remote and hack its buttons to use the UM506.

You can get magnetic switches from many electronic suppliers and security dealers. I don't have any links off hand but know others will give some to you.

[dave w]

A couple of questions for Dave:

Where do you get a magnetic window switch to connect to the UM?  Do you have a part number or company that sell them?

How do you vary the current levels?  Does the UM do that?

Brian has pretty much answered these questions but:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/MS-14/STANDARD-MAGNETIC-PROXIMITY-SWITCH//1.html

Radio Shark used to carry these but it seems all they do is sell phones now days.

As far as the current limiting question: As Brian said: IF your lifter's multi function wall controller works same as ours (Linear brand) you would not need any current limiting The opener understands a dead short across it's "wall switch" terminal screws means open/close the door. Something less than dead short means to do something else.

However based on what Brian found in the manual, you may not be able to use a standard momentary push button type of switch. Maybe a call to Liftmaster is in order.

[mcbbcn]

Dave,

Thanks a lot for the link.  I really appreciate it.

M.

[mcbbcn]

Brian,

I've never hacked a garage door button.  Sorry to ask this. but could you give me some directions about how you would do it?

Thanks a tone for your help,

Miquel

[dave w]

dave w; The manual does not show any override push button switch. Though they may not be making that general knowledge. In fact they say if you want added remote positions. Use their RF wall mounted controller, as only one master controller can be used.

mcbbcn too:

Yeah, I just looked at mcbbcn Liftmaster model and the description says the wall switch or "Smart Control Panel" gives system status messages on the LCD screen, so they have to be sending some type of digital signal down the wires to the panel.

In other words you can't use the magnetic switch or the Universal Module unless you wire them in to a hacked remote control or perhaps hack the Liftmaster "Smart Control Panel" and wire the Universal Module and magnetic switch directly across the mechanical switch terminals on the PC board. This is what Brian suggested in his earlier response. Sorry for stepping on you Brian.

[mcbbcn]

Hi Dave,

No worries for stepping into it.

I was asking Brian earlier (if you know how to do it, please chime in), how to hack the garage door buttons?  It is just a simple push to the button, but somethings can look so simple and be so complicated.   

I would love to know how to hack those buttons.  I've never done it, so if you or Brian have some instructions about how to do it, it would be wonderful.

Thanks for your help,

M.

[Brian H]

I am looking at the accessories page for the 3800 to see what I can find out.

Chart is not too clear on the 902LM panel and if it is used with the 398LM controller or in place of it.
http://www.liftmaster.com/consumerweb/pages/accessoriesmodeldetail.aspx?modelId=749
I also found it interesting in the 902LMs manual. It shows a bell button across the main controllers terminals, but again is not clear if the controller shown is the one in the 3800.

There are also a few RF remotes you maybe able to add a set of wires across it push button to use a UM506.

Not being as adventurous as some here. I personally would not try to modify the 398LM Intelligent Controller to connect a UM506 to its buttons. 

A call to their support line asking if a simple bell button across the controllers terminals would work couldn't hurt.

[mcbbcn]

Hi Brian,

Actually, the panel that came with the lift is this one:

http://liftmaster.org/consumerweb/pages/accessoriesmodeldetail.aspx?modelId=842

And the remote control is this one:

http://liftmaster.org/consumerweb/pages/accessoriesmodeldetail.aspx?modelId=840

Thanks for your help,

M.

[Brandt]

I didn't read all the responses so sorry If i'm repeating here, but use two universal modules wired in series, set them to momentary, and create a macro in AHP for opening that has to send the signal to both uni mods within about 2 seconds. This will ensure that not a lone x10 command will open the door.

[Brian H]

Brandt; Do I remember you having a liftmaster opener and using just contacts  {two modules in your setup for safety} across the wires from the opener to the control box?

[Brandt]

Brandt; Do I remember you having a liftmaster opener and using just contacts  {two modules in your setup for safety} across the wires from the opener to the control box?

No that wasn't me