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[dave w]

gdmaclew said: "Thanks. Where do I get them?"


These IMHO are the best but also the most pricey.
JV Engineering, XTBIIR
http://jvde.us/xtb_index.htm
or
ACT CR 234 or CR230
http://www.smarthome.com/4821AC/HomePro-Amplified-Coupler-Repeater-with-Repeated-Signal-Detection/p.aspx
http://www.smarthome.com/4820AC/HomePro-Amplified-Coupler-Repeater/p.aspx

These below are less expensive, but not as good (IMHO) nor as high an output as the above.

XPCR
http://www.x10pro.com/pro/catalog/platform.html#couplers  (try Ebay, these are pretty cheap)

SignalLinc
http://www.smarthome.com/4826B/SignaLinc-3-Pin-Plug-in-Coupler-Repeater/p.aspx (plugs into 220V dryer outlet, no installation)

[Brian H]

The SignalLinc Repeater has been reported to cause X10 power line fire storms with the CM15A in some installations.
I had one and in my case it was OK. Until I got a CR134 {same as CR234 with optional three phase support} that was now replaced by the XTB-IIR.
Same for the Leviton HCA02 and firestorms.

I also would say a XTB-IIR if possible. It blasts such a strong signal on the power line.
The CR234 would also work.

[gdmaclew]

I appreciate all your help on this but here's where I stand.
First of all, the reason I went with a CM15A was that the software I was using with the CM17A serial module would hang or crash occasionally which basically made it useless when I was on vacation.
Otherwise I had zero issues with my small setup.
I was not looking to spend oodles of money.
I have done extensive testing on my setup and power system and I don't understand the problem with that one wall switch (non soft-start).
I read what everyone said about phase but here's my problem.
I have a spare AH486 that I have been using for testing.
Nomatter where in the house I plug that module in, the AHP can turn it on and off 100% of the time.
Same thing for the spotlights, which are using the new soft-start wall switches.
The only problem I am having is with the older wall switch in my livingroom.
Rather than investing more money buying boosters and couplers, maybe I should just buy an updated wall switch and try that.
Are there any known issues with the old style wall switches?
Having been a network administrator for 20 years, the rule I always went with was "try the simple stuff first".
Again, thank you for all your help and I will update you when I get the new switch.
Cheers.

[Brian H]

New version of the wall switches and lamp modules have soft start.
Wall switches also have preset dim.
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Newer_Wall_Switches_and_Preset_Dim
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/SoftStart

Sometimes we forget the KISS method. 

[gdmaclew]

New version of the wall switches and lamp modules have soft start.
Wall switches also have preset dim.
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Newer_Wall_Switches_and_Preset_Dim
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/SoftStart

I am aware of that Brian...my spotlights use them.
Can I tell AHP that the old wall switch is something other than a WS467?
Is the fact that I'm telling AHP that my older switch is a WS467 confusing it somehow?
Like maybe a PLM03, of which I have one, which also works 100% of the time.
Thanks.

[Dan Lawrence]

If the WS467 is an older one you can continue to use the WS467 setting.   If the module is bought after 2005, presume it is Soft Start and use the the 2  Two-way modules in AHP for them.  They are the LM14A Two Way Lamp module (for all lamp modules) and the AM14A Two Way Appliance Module (for all Appliance Modules).   There is also a AM15A 3-Pin Two Way Appliance Module.   All 3 are no longer made, but AHP still has them.

Soft Start modules were made after 2005, but X10 never changed the part numbers. 

[gdmaclew]

If the WS467 is an older one you can continue to use the WS467 setting.   If the module is bought after 2005, presume it is Soft Start and use the the 2  Two-way modules in AHP for them.  They are the LM14A Two Way Lamp module (for all lamp modules) and the AM14A Two Way Appliance Module (for all Appliance Modules).   There is also a AM15A 3-Pin Two Way Appliance Module.   All 3 are no longer made, but AHP still has them.

Soft Start modules were made after 2005, but X10 never changed the part numbers. 

Thank you Dan.
As I mentioned a couple of posts back, it is a non soft start wall switch.

[gdmaclew]

What I don't understand is why my PalmPad can send a signal to the TM751 which turns on the wall switch in question with 100% results and the CM15A together with AHP cannot.
Does the CM15A not send an RF signal to the TM751 as well?
I am assuming that since it has an antenna, that it does just that.
Is there something I am not understanding here?

[Dan Lawrence]

Transceivers send their signals to modules, AHP gets the status from the modules.   They do not send signals to AHP.   

[Brian H]

No.
The CM15A sends power line signals not RF.
The visible antenna is a receiving antenna for things like your Palm Pad.

It can also be set to Tranceive the RF House Code. Just like the TM751 can.
Tools
Hardware Configuration.
Tranceived House Code.
I believe the default is Auto and for some it transceives none without picking the ones you want.
It also have an RF transmitter in it and that antenna is internal to the case.
Unless the command is specified as an RF command the power line one is normally used.

Unplug the CM15A from the wall outlet and try the TM751 in the exact outlet the CM15A was in.
See if it is 100% from that outlet.
In your old setup all the power line commands where being sent from the TM751s position. As the CM17A sent an RF signal to it and it sent the power line signals to the switches and other power line devices.

[dave w]

What I don't understand is why my PalmPad can send a signal to the TM751 which turns on the wall switch in question with 100% results and the CM15A together with AHP cannot.

To add a little to Brian and Dan's comments;
I would use the CM15A as the one and only tranceiver in the house. The TM751 is an "impolite" tranceiver, meaning as soon as it picks up an RF command, it passes it on to the powerline without regard to any other X10 transmissions which might be taking place. The CM15A is polite. It checks the powerlines for other X10 signals before transceiving in incoming RF command. The downside is the TM751 has a better receiver and antenna to receive RF commands so seems to be more sensitive when range is an issue. There are work-arounds for the CM15A range problems.

[gdmaclew]

No.
The CM15A sends power line signals not RF.
The visible antenna is a receiving antenna for things like your Palm Pad.

It can also be set to Tranceive the RF House Code. Just like the TM751 can.
Tools
Hardware Configuration.
Tranceived House Code.
I believe the default is Auto and for some it transceives none without picking the ones you want.
It also have an RF transmitter in it and that antenna is internal to the case.
Unless the command is specified as an RF command the power line one is normally used.

Unplug the CM15A from the wall outlet and try the TM751 in the exact outlet the CM15A was in.
See if it is 100% from that outlet.
In your old setup all the power line commands where being sent from the TM751s position. As the CM17A sent an RF signal to it and it sent the power line signals to the switches and other power line devices.

Good call Brian!
When I plug the TM751 into the outlet for the CM15A, I get spotty results from the wall switch. Sometimes it takes two or three short presses on the PalmPad to made it change state...or one long press.
This is the branch where all my audio/video equipment for the livingroom are plugged in (6 separate components).
I guess what I could do is program the CM15A with AHP, download the timers/macros to it, unplug the USB and move it to where the TM751 usually is.
A bit of a cludge but it beats re-wiring the livingroom.

[Brian H]

Or you could put a X10 type filter on the equipment.

[gdmaclew]

Or you could put a X10 type filter on the equipment.

Thanks Brian but I don't want to spend any more money on this.
So is my idea detailed above a viable one?

[Brian H]

Moving the CM15A should also work.