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[tsttm]

I will preface this in saying that I don't know much about electrical stuff (obviously).

So, I inherited this 'older' air conditioner. This past summer, I connected it to an AM466 module so that I could toggle it on & off with a remote.

Now, dismantling it for the winter, I noticed that the electrical prongs have melted the AM466 & there is black staining as well as melting around the electrical prongs.

So this is for my own education- Was the AM466 module unable to handle to A/C? (see specs from the A/C below). Or could this be due to say water (the plug & module lies on the floor under the window & it's possible some rain water/condensation could have splashed on it).

Also, given what you see in the photos below, is the A/C plug done? Should I retire this A/C unit? (I know it's old, but if it's safe to use...it still works perfectly).

Thanks very much for your help.   

[anthonylavado]

The AM466 is designed to handle a max of 500 watts. Your A/C calls for approx 1440w. I would suggest not plugging it again, at least not into an AM466. The plug on the A/C does look iffy though.

AM466 as seen on http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/AM466

Max Loads:
Resistive
15A
Motor
1/3 HP
Lamps (incandescent, fluorescent, halogen, low voltage)
500W
TV
400W

[tsttm]

ok, thanks for the info. I'll remember to check that next time. So how dangerous was this?

yeah, I'm not sure what to think of continuing to use this AC unit. The plug shows some evidence of melting as well with black marks...maybe time to retire or have the plug replaced..

[Brian H]

If the unit is still functioning to your satisfaction. Have the plug replaced.
Though modern units maybe more efficient.

[anthonylavado]

I agree with what Brian said. As far as how much a risk it was, I don't know electricity that well so I couldn't say. I can tell you though that over loading the components in the AM466 or any circuit is not good. More power = more heat to deal with, and if it wasn't designed to take that kind of load, it would have gotten very, very hot. One would hope that another system would catch it (like a breaker if a short were to happen), but you always want to play it safe.
I bet there are some more "capable" modules that would be up to the task. You'd have to check with X10 or even have a peek at SmartHome.

If you do put something back there though, try to do anything you can to avoid having condensation/water drop on it.

Hope this all helps! 

[nybuck]

Just a thought...
I bought a window air conditioner like 7 years ago that came with an IR remote...  You could turn it on/off, change the temperature setting, switch the fan high/low/off, etc...   It was really a nice unit, and I'm sure they are more efficient these days (use less electricity).

If you're stuck on X10, you could get the IR Commander to control an IR air conditioner with your AHP setup or X10 remote.

[mike]

I don't want to disagree with others, but 15 amp resistive is 15 amp resistive rating, which is 15*120=1800 watts.  incadecent bulb is resistive load;  so to put 500 watt limit (4 amp) on it is just plain wrong for x10.  That said, I would suggest that:

1) based on the facts of burnt plugs, &
2) a low 500 watt rating and 1800watt rating, and
3) the misratings on the x10 brown filters rated 5 amps but catch fire at 4,

I'd say this unit is only REALLY rated 500 watts, not 15 amps resistive.

That said, the compressor motor in your window AC unit is probably close to the 1/3hp inductive load rating stated so THAT more so causes it to not be good match also.

Add both facts and you probably should not use this combination again.

[Brian H]

Well lets take in to account the large surge current the cold filaments in the bulbs produce when first turned on.
The internal relay has to take the surge with out damage.

Most other brands of modules have a different rating for pure resistive, incandescent bulbs and inductive loads.
A ZWave HA02 appliance module is 15 amps resistive and 1000 Watts Tungsten.
An Insteon V1.3 ApplianceLinc is 15 amps resistive; 480 watts Lighting and Inductive.

[JeffVolp]

I don't want to disagree with others, but 15 amp resistive is 15 amp resistive rating, which is 15*120=1800 watts.  incadecent bulb is resistive load;  so to put 500 watt limit (4 amp) on it is just plain wrong for x10.

As I explained in another thread on this forum some time ago, there can be a very significant difference between resistive and inductive loads.  In a purely resistive load, the current is in phase with the applied voltage, so watts is the same as volt-amps.  In a reactive load (inductive or capacitive) some portion of the current is out of phase with the applied voltage.  That current is not measured by a wattmeter, but anything powering that load must handle the increased current.

The current rating on that air conditioner is 12A, so its motor is probably over 1 hp.  That is well in excess of the rating of the appliance module.

Jeff

[dave w]

Just an observation.

It appears most of the heat was generated at the plug prongs - socket area. And although the module was seriously overloaded from a spec standpoint,  I do not see case distortion or case discoloring where the relay contacts are located, which I would expect if it was a relay melt-down.

Since the air conditioner is obviously old, I wonder if the plug prongs might not have been heavily oxidized/corroded to begin with, which might explain the burn location. Anyone who has taken the appliance module apart knows the module socket contacts are physically well isolated from the remaining innards. My bet is, the relay contacts will be in better shape than the plug prongs.

[Brian H]

Yes I agree. It does look more like it was the outlet portion of the module.