XTB-IIR install & code ?

[Crusty]

Installed XTB-IIR with a piece of 14-3 SJ running the 1' to the panel and connecting to a 2-pole 15a breaker.  All correctly secured and such.  My brother-in-law said that he didn't think this was code for residential.  He thinks residential doesn't allow SJ into a panel and that there must be an external disconnect (or plug) between the panel and XTB-IIR. 

I know code varies by state and sometimes by county & city, but wanted to see what anyone on here might know.  Elec supply house said they're no longer allowed to advise on code and our electrical inspector doesn't answer questions but will only inspect and say what doesn't meet code.

Thanks,

[Brandt]

Jeff Volp usually recommends installing a 30-amp socket coming directly off the panel, and a 30-amp plug onto the XTB-IIR

[Brian H]

I am not an electrician either, but running SJ flexable cable into a breaker panel doesn't sound like it is legal.

[Crusty]

Thanks guys.  SJ is legal in commercial environments but apparently not in residential.  Same apparently goes for the disconnect or plug, commercial allows a breaker to act as a disconnect, residential does not.  I'd thought about just replacing the SJ with some 14-3 romex but sounds like some form of external disconnect is necessary.

[JeffVolp]

Jeff Volp usually recommends installing a 30-amp socket coming directly off the panel, and a 30-amp plug onto the XTB-IIR

Actually, I recommend a 15A or 20A 240V receptacle.  If you want to hardwire it to the panel you should use a piece of 14 gauge Romex.

FYI, the XTB-IIR is fused internally with 2A (Phase I) and 1A (Phase II) slow-blow fuses.  Phase I is larger because it powers the receptacle on the cover and the XTB-IIR itself.

My 2002 NEC says:

422.31 Disconnection of Permanently Connected Appliances

(A) Rated at not over 300 Volt-Amperes or 1/8 Horsepower.  For permanently connected appliances rated at not over 300 volt-amperes or 1/8 horsepower, the branch circuit overcurrent device shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means.

Jeff

[Crusty]

The least expensive 'correct' plug appears to be a NEMA 14-15 which is $35 for the plug and $26 for the recept.  Guy at Home Depot recommended a NEMA 6-15 and to just use the ground pin as neutral (we are a ground bonded to neutral state).  Any ideas if this would pass muster with inspector?

[JeffVolp]

The least expensive 'correct' plug appears to be a NEMA 14-15 which is $35 for the plug and $26 for the recept.

That is correct.  I used to offer the L14-20P plugs and L14-20R receptacles at $15 each, but almost nobody opted to use them.

Jeff

[sun-sense]

The least expensive 'correct' plug appears to be a NEMA 14-15 which is $35 for the plug and $26 for the recept.

That is correct.  I used to offer the L14-20P plugs and L14-20R receptacles at $15 each, but almost nobody opted to use them.

Jeff

I just came back from the Home Depot in Saint Petersburg, Florida.

I found them next to the larger 30 and 50 Amp plugs/receptacles.  They have a Red label and are made by   'Pass & Seymour'

a)   Turnlok Plug NEMA L14-20P   -   $15.99          -   Barcode = 785007855159

b)   Turnlok Outlet NEMA L14-20R   -   $14.90       -   Barcode = 785007857689

I hope that's useful to people.  :-)