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[kamiller42]

I have a receiver driving two subwoofers in the room. They are plugged into the wall away from the receiver. I would like the power to the subwoofers controlled by the receiver. When the receiver goes on, an x10 power outlet would turn on. When the receiver goes off, the outlet goes off.

Two X10 PAO11 outlets seems perfect for the subs. The challenge is triggering on and offs via the powered state of the receiver.

The PSC01 looks like a good choice to plug into the one switched outlet on the receiver, but it outputs 120V. Input voltage on the PSC01 is 0-18V.

Is the PSC01 the device I should be looking at? If not, which? If so, how should I make the connection between receiver and PSC01? Some of my other crazier ideas are going inline on the woofer pre-out or using the RS232 port on the back. It's an Onkyo TX-SR875. RS232 isn't bad idea if I had pin out.

[dave w]

The PSC01 looks like a good choice to plug into the one switched outlet on the receiver, but it outputs 120V. Input voltage on the PSC01 is 0-18V.

How about a long extension cord from the recevers switched outlet?   

An alternative is to use a 120V AC coil relay fed from the receivers switched outlet with the N.O. contacts coupled to the PSC01.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RLY-453/120-VAC-RELAY-DPDT-12-AMPS//1.html

or if like me, you like little LED's everywhere here is relay with built-in pilot light.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/4PRLY-120L/120-VAC-4PDT-KH-RELAY-W/LED//1.html

[HA Dave]

I've used both a tricklesaver and a tricklesaver-like device. The power of the control device [when turned on] turns On the other/slave device plugged into the tricklesaver.

I use one such device to simply make sure the monitor and printer is turned off on the wife's computer when she turns the PC off.

Another one I used as part of an occupancy setup. With the "other or slave" device being an old wall-wart which controlled a powerflash module. I used the powerflash module in combination with macros and a Automated Chair to control the TV.

[Brandt]

a beleive a macro on an nstinct remote would do this...

setup your receiver on/off then add a key to the macro which would send an x10 signal to a TM751 transceiver and then to an appliance module plugged into your woofers.

[kamiller42]

The PSC01 looks like a good choice to plug into the one switched outlet on the receiver, but it outputs 120V. Input voltage on the PSC01 is 0-18V.

How about a long extension cord from the recevers switched outlet?   

Hey, you laugh, but.... I had a guy run speaker wire from the front of the room to the side half way down the wall. He was able to carefully pull the curved baseboard off, slide the cable between wall and floor, and put baseboard back. We would have ran power too, but there was no room.

The relay is interesting. I have soldering skills, but I have not used a relay before. The two terminals in the same direction are where the A/C wires attach and the other terminals are the relays, the low voltage side? The one says DPDT but has 6 terminals. I thought it would be 4, 2 for each throw.

The trickle saver is a good idea, but seems to require a power cord between the receiver and woofer. Back to the extension cord idea. The only thing between the two right now other than an audio cable is the A/C cable in the wall. Plus, not sure how well things will run running a high power receiver, and 2 large subs through a single outlet.

I had the nstinct's predecessor. Nice remote. I didn't use it much because I used the system to watch movies on a PS3. The PS3 does not have IR and is controlled via bluetooth. There are IR adapters for it, but you can't power it on via IR plugged into USB. So, I end up going to the front of the room to power the PS3 on and the receiver manually since it's right there. Very rarely do I power the receiver on via a remote. You do have me thinking about this though... hmm, maybe controlling the outlets with a SS13A switch. The only down side is the fact the subwoofers on/off correlate directly with the on/off of the receiver, no matter how it's powered, remote or not. A separate switch is one more thing to push.

Just to finish a story, I gave the remote to my parents to consolidate remotes. They love it. One remote to rule them all.

[Brandt]

I have a PS3 also for blu ray, and the DVR has a UHF remote...so alas there are still 5 remotes sitting on the coffee table 

Don't get SS13a's they are garbage...

I use Leviton 16400's myself...


my parents hated the remote...they think it has too many buttons and dont feel like wrestling with it.... so back in the box it went

[dave w]

The relay is interesting. I have soldering skills, but I have not used a relay before. The two terminals in the same direction are where the A/C wires attach and the other terminals are the relays, the low voltage side? The one says DPDT but has 6 terminals. I thought it would be 4, 2 for each throw.

I PM'ed you with drawing for this.

[Knightrider]

The Powerflash will active on voltage to a speaker.

[kamiller42]

I have a PS3 also for blu ray, and the DVR has a UHF remote...so alas there are still 5 remotes sitting on the coffee table 

Don't get SS13a's they are garbage...

I use Leviton 16400's myself...

my parents hated the remote...they think it has too many buttons and dont feel like wrestling with it.... so back in the box it went

My parents' PS3 has an IR receiver. I trained the IconRemote all of the signals. You still can't control power though. For my parents, that's fine. The remote is actually less complicated than the remote the cable company gave them with their DVR. It has fewer buttons. In fact, there's no page up and down for the guide, so we mapped two others for page up and down.

I received a couple of SS13a's as part of an X10 package special. I just tried it a couple of times. Seems to do the job but the range isn't too good. I will have to have a transceiver nearby.

@Dave, thanks a bunch. If relay is the way, we will be in touch.

@KnightRider, thanks. The Powerflash was one of my initial considerations. Can you go in detail on how you would use this with a speaker?

I see it says it activates on an audio signal, but they must be talking about a pre-out jack or lower power headphone jack. Right? You wouldn't run this in-line with speaker wire, would you? Too much power. I would like to find a spare audio out signal to use with it because I don't want it interfering with the fidelity of the main speakers.

[kamiller42]

Another neat idea but would require me using an extension cord. Not going to happen. Now if this could send an X10 commands while sensing on and off, that would be great!

http://www.belkin.com/conserve/smartav/

[kamiller42]

Doing some research on the receiver, I found the pre-out is 1VDC. The Powerflash needs 6-18VDC. Hmm...

[Knightrider]

I can't speak for you specific receiver, but most of the pre-out's I've encountered range between .72 and 1.5 volts.  It may be possible to take an extra pre-amp output and send it to a cheap amp (think $5 ramsey kit, or cheap headphone amp) and send that into the powerflash.

Granted, I've never actually done this, but according to the specifications provided with the powerflash (which I always take with a grain of salt)  it can be done.

I may swing some time this week end to try this, if you're willing to help (providing some details).  If you think this is a viable solution, post back and I'll try to set up something.

I use a 1500 watt hybrid amp for my surround 7.1 and a 200 watt junker for my subs.  (I bet I never crank more than 40 watts on the mains and 100 on the subs).  The 1500 was just what I had at the time, and it will take any varying load from 16 Ohms down to 2, even lower.

[dave w]

Doing some research on the receiver, I found the pre-out is 1VDC. The Powerflash needs 6-18VDC. Hmm...

Boys, I was just thinking about my idea of driving the Powerflash with audio. It might not be a very good suggestion. The sub woofers will probably click off with every period of silence between songs or in dialog. You would need AHP / CM15A control to insert a turn-off delay macro, or use the receiver switched power.

[Knightrider]

Dave,

It would depend on how clean the audio is, what levels were driving it, and which output you used.  I was thinking about driving it with the high end output.  Unless it's very clean, there should be some constant output regardless if it's audible.

[kamiller42]

Knightrider, thank you for the offer. I don't have the parts yet. I wanted to make sure I was going down the right path. I will get them ordered this weekend.

I spent too much time today looking for a motion sensing switch that is compatible with CFL's. I went to 6 stores, 2 of them twice, trying to find the. It was the 6th store which had a compatible switches, but a) they were pricey, b) they had a short 5 minute fixed delay. I want configurable delay.

Now, I am having a problem getting a LM465 to respond with CM15A but responds with TM751. Going to post in troubleshooting...