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[mike]

I searched for LED and did not see a recent post on this so thought I would make one.

I think a lot of us have had issues with trying to run very low power loads like LED lighting with appliance or lamp modules.  I had a lite module that worked with my wifes makeup mirror 10pc 1 watt  LED string light for a few years - until the power failure last week from ice storm that blew it.  5 replacement lamp and appliance modules did not work - LED would keep flashing every 3 seconds as voltage built up on ouput due to the low load.  Others have suggested sticking a little 7 watt or so night lite on the output to help load it.  I finally just took out the capacitor and resistor hooked to the output hi leg of the relay inside the appliance module and the leakage path is now gone and it works fine now. 

[Brian H]

Is the appliance module you modified. The older one with the through hole controller IC or the new CFL friendly version with the surface mounted controller on the solder side of the PCB?

[dave w]

It doesn't go "clickty-clickty-click"?

[mike]

believe it is smd IC type. if really important to you, I will take apart and make sure and post.

being appliance module, it goes click click click - looks like around a 15amp SPST latching relay.

[Brian H]

I believe dave w wanted to know if it clicked two or three times when you tried to turn it on or off. That is the typical response if the am I on or off circuit doesn't toggle correctly.

Would be nice to know if it was the new CFL type and maybe even the silk screened part numbers on the PCB.
Though we do not want you to break the wife's module to get the information.

[dave w]

I believe dave w wanted to know if it clicked two or three times when you tried to turn it on or off. That is the typical response if the am I on or off circuit doesn't toggle correctly.

Thanks Brian, that's exactly what I was curious about. It sounds like Mike disconnected the relay output from any feedback circuit, so I would have expected the contoller chip to fire the solenoid a time or two more. The old modules was three times for three clicks, you said the new modules was only two clicks didn't you?

[mike]

no double/triple clicks.  works first time every ti9me.

AM465.  old style  F78570 thru hole chip not SMD.

removed cap & res tied to hot output side of relay contact, both of which went to a diode to house code sw.

no silk screen on pcb.  on pcb side EGC & 10003A

works now on (probably 7 watt) LED lite string (120->24v wall outlet PS).

got yelled at taking it apart, don.t "fix" stuff that works....... back together and working again

[Brian H]

Thanks Mike.
Didn't want to get you in trouble with the wife.

[dave w]

got yelled at taking it apart, don.t "fix" stuff that works....... back together and working again

Our wives are related!

[Brian H]

I looked at the schematic for the older appliance modules.
Basically you did what the cut the diode mod did.
There would be no Click-Click-Click as the on or off status sensing is still connected.

[SilverHairedSaint]

Has anyone tried using the X10 spotlights with sensors and/or cameras with PAR38 LED Spotlights?  I've been running eight LED PAR 38 Spotlights which each use about 10-12 watts, but haven't tried them with X10 yet.  I wanted to find out if they will work before I go changing things out--I don't like ladders too much and my house is pretty tall!

[dave w]

Has anyone tried using the X10 spotlights with sensors and/or cameras with PAR38 LED Spotlights? 

I have not, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once.

FWIW
The PR511 uses a relay to supply power to the lights so it *should work* with LEDs or CFLs.

[mike]

OK Dave, I'll ask:  what the heck does ur staying at a HI Express have to do with it?   (I'm almost afraid to ask!)

PS:  I have been using these Par38's in multiple different brand non X10 infrared motion sensing dual flood lites for 2+yrs now and they work swell.

[dave w]

OK Dave, I'll ask:  what the heck does ur staying at a HI Express have to do with it?   (I'm almost afraid to ask!)

PS:  I have been using these Par38's in multiple different brand non X10 infrared motion sensing dual flood lites for 2+yrs now and they work swell.

  You must have missed all the HI Express "expert" commercials. Sorry, I guess you had to be there. Hey did you guys get nasty weather down there yesterday?

[brwolfe]

I have an aquarium that has been running an x10 system for 10 years without any problems.  There are three appliance modules that ran some compact flourescents, and 2-175w metal halide lights.
I decided to break down and spend the money on LED fixtures.
It is 110 watt fixture and when plugged into the x10 system it turns on, it'll turn off, but then comes right back on again 2-3 seconds later.
Does this every time.
Some extranious signal is coming from these LED units causing the X10 to misbehave.
Any thoughts on simple filtering.
I have not tried to change the code they are running on since they were working fine previous.
The tank is run by one of those older Radio Shack alarm clock type X10 controllers.
The house lighting is run off of a Smart Home controller, and as it can control the tank if I want, I chose to keep the local alarm clock controller running the tank cause it was always flawless.


Regards;

Brian