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[Darrell]

Yes yes I know and see and read the trouble shooting, message boards, help 1-800 numbers and so on. But @%&$ sakes. I just installed two of these dimmer switches along with the motion sensor and chime, and all really does work well. My problem is I can't seem to get these WS12A switches  to work with the latest version of AHP on a timer. I know there's filters and couplers , etc. out there, but what really works? before I my money
 
Thanks to anyone who can simply this for me
I'm not an electrician
Darrell

[Brian H]

AHP 3.310?
CM15A or CM19A with TM751 for interface?
If the WS12As are new. You used the Lamp Module choices and not the old non softstart choices?
If you can manually toggle them in the AHP screen. Should indicate the signals are getting to the modules.
If you have anything in the recycle bin. You may try emptying it.

[Darrell]

Thanks Brian, I appreciate your comment. I may not have the experience you guys have, but I gotta tell you. This whole X10 stuff is enough to make a guy drink (not a bad thing?). I have never come across anything that's seems to be so inconsistent. Once you think you have it, it throws a curve ball at you. Your advise helped me out, I can use the timer now thanks.
Now when I toggle the light only, it comes on dim even thou AHP says it's at %100.  I have to manually push and hold the switch to bring it up %100 and then try again.
What I am wanting to do is set the timer to come on at 40% for 5 minutes and then 100% and then off 45 minutes later, (no such luck). It comes on very dim and then 5 minutes later it goes even dimmer. I believe I've tried every combination to make this work ... (sigh)

Help
Darrell

And I still have a whole box of this stuff

[Dan Lawrence]

Darrell, we need the Information that Brian asked for in order to help you.

[dave w]

My car makes a funny noise, how do I fix it? Please help.   

IF your all wall switches and/or plug in modules work when you control them from the AHP screen, but don't work with timers, then filters and couplers won't help you (although you will be the highly unlikely exception).  If you want help, then you have to do some work at your end and give us feedback. Have you identified the wall switches as "soft start" modules??

[Brian H]

OH preset dim.
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Newer_Wall_Switches_and_Preset_Dim

[Darrell]

Okay, here’s what I have. CM19A computer interface, LM465 lamp module, MS14A eagle eye motion sensor, SC546A sensor chime, TM751 small wireless transceiver, RR501 transceiver module and WS12A decorator dimmer switch. Right now I have the WS12A’s with incandescent bulbs
How do find what AHP I’m running? This is all new as of two weeks ago. My recycle bin is empty
With the AHP I have the modules set up as older lamps (no soft start) and decorator wall switch module. Hope this helps you guys. In the mean time I'll read up on the last link Brian just sent me

Thanks again to all of you for your time.
Darrell 

[Brian H]

When you start AHP the loading plugins display will show the AHP version near the bottom.
If you miss it. Help and then pick About.
If the WS12A and LM465s are almost brand new. Use the Soft Start versions in the Lamp Type list and not the Old before Soft Start ones.

Is the RR501 and TM751 on the same House Code?
TM751s are not polite and unless you are not getting RF coverage you want. Having both a RR501 and TM751 on the same House Code can be a problem.

[dave w]

Now when I toggle the light only, it comes on dim even thou AHP says it's at %100.  I have to manually push and hold the switch to bring it up %100 and then try again.

This is standard operation for the newer "Soft Start" wall switches and Lamp Modules. They come back ON at they same dim setting they were turned off at. Since the modules have no feedback to AHP, AHP does not know if they were dimmed locally (at the switch). One way around the incidence of dimming at the switch (other than telling family to make sure light is at full bright before turning off at switch) is to create a macro to turn the light on, then brighten to 100% then turn the light off. This "stages" the light for your timed macro. You could run this macro daily, say late in the evening when it would not be disturbing and when no one is likely to use the local button for dimming.

[Darrell]

Okay then, some of this is begining to make some sense. How about a couple of other questions (some what related).
 
At the top of each module, the color background may be blue and then it turns black, why?

What is the difference between the the little save icon and the two little arrows at the bottom right side of the AHP program when you are saving the changes?

Can you tell me why my TM751 is clicking on and off even though all my programing numbers are above 2 through 16?

I have no need to plug anything into my transceiver, Is there a preference between the WTM75 and the TM751?

Have you ever been in the middle of making some program changes and there is no response at all. And as I sit here trying to explain this, all my rooms starting going on and off over and over??? is this a lag in the software? Oh wait a second, my back landing light just came on and there was no chime. Funny cause my chime and back landing light are on the same number.

Sorry for all the question, but when you feel your on a positive roll you go for it

For crying out load just herd my TM751 click and my bedroom lights just went on, (their on 2 and 3).......... sigh

Thanks again everyone
Darrell 
 

[Brian H]

Something is sending an RF Unit one on and off. To the house code you have chosen. As the TM751 has no power line receiver in it and can not be controlled by a power line signal.

Are there any RF devices like a palm pad remote or motion sensor in your installation.
Any chance you have a remote stuck in couch or somewhere the buttons are getting mashed on?
A timer or macro that has a unit one address in it?
Did you add the TM751 to AHP as a module or just using it as an interface?
What address is the MS14A on? If it is on Unit Code 16 the dusk dawn sensor in it will loop around to unit Code 1. That will cause a unit code 1 on and off as it see dusk and dawn or a light shining on it.

The RTM75 is the retail version of the TM751. So both would be the same transceiver.

[Darrell]

Thanks again to all for your time and information.

Today I come into the house and here's whats happening now.

Using the MS14A eagle eye with the WS12A switch did work very well for the first few days, now the light wont go off until I physically turn it off...sigh.

Using the LM465 lamp module with the SS13A RF style switch for the bedroom worked okay at the best of times. My wife goes into the bedroom and asks why the light are on...there's no one home...sigh.

I really don't wont to but, I'm beginning to believe what I read on one web site a few weeks ago was this. The x10.com products are nothing more than toys, sold with a lot of fancy misleading adverting pretty girl models and a lot of bling. Not to mention the accountable pop-ups.

I feel I'm wasting my time and yours. The inconsistent response of the software is much to be desired. The timing works with lag or not at all. As I keep moving the timer up one minute at a time (supposed to go off when I go to bed at night) just to get the light to turn off, after 3,4,5 try's with success. I'm a hiccup away from selling it to anyone here on your very well managed and very helpful website. I believe in this very hard and difficult world you get what you pay for. I should not have high expectations.

Again, thanks, and my regrets for wasting your time with this product.
Maybe tomorrow I have a change of heart and more patience.

Don't blame the computer, brand new Acer, i5-380 6GB ram 500 GB HDD

Darrell
Darrell

[JeffVolp]

X10 technology was invented back in the 70's when the home electrical environment was very simple compared with what is in a typical home today.  Back then it was pretty much plug and play, but today it is more like plug and pray.  X10 problems are usually due to either weak signals or electrical noise on the powerline.  Once these issues are addressed, you should be able to achieve good reliability even with inexpensive X10 switches and modules.

In addition to the coupler required to transfer signals between phases, weak signals are caused by the large number of electrical loads found in our homes today.  Many computer power supplies contain capacitors directly across the AC input.  That allows them to meet the FCC spec on conducted radiation, but it also severely attenuates X10 signals on that circuit.  Home entertainment equipment such as flat-panel TVs, monitors, and audio systems can also be "signal suckers".

Powerline noise is commonly caused by electrical devices with switching power supplies, such as compact fluorescent light bulbs and high-efficiency "wall-wart" power modules.  Noise sources and "signal suckers" will have to be to be isolated with filters to have a reliable system.  If you have not already done so, you may want to read some of the troubleshooting series I wrote:

http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm

Jeff

[Brian H]

The electronics in the computers power supply could be a signal sucker or noise maker.
Surge strips and UPS units can also be a problem if not filtered with an X10 type filter.

[Noam]

I agree 100% with what JeffVolp said. It sounds like you have issues with signal strength, and not with the software.
I had all kinds of seemingly random problems with signals in my house. As soon as I'd solve one issue, I'd find another one.
I ended up buying an XTB-IIR from Jeff, which was something I should have done years earlier. You may want to hire an electrician to install it if you're not comfortable adding circuits in your breaker box. However, it really DOES work.
Even with that, however, I still had some strange issues. Electrical noise can be really tricky to find, especially in my case. I had a few lights that wouldn't respond, but only at night. Turning off EVERY breaker in my house didn't fix the issue. I was beating my head against the wall trying to locate any source of noise in my house (especially with everything shut down).
It ended up being a neighbor (across the street), who had a pair of CFL bulbs in the fixtures next to his front door. One of those was going bad, and was creating enough noise on the powerline to travel all the way back up the lines, and down into my system. As soon as he unscrewed the offending bulb, everything went back to normal.
Fortunately, he is a good friend of mine, and he was more than happy to help me troubleshoot.
I bought him a pair of new bulbs.

The moral of the story, I guess, is not to give up just yet. If you haven't done so yet, I suggest mapping out which outlets, switches, and appliances are controlled by which breakers, and try to determine if you have an issue only on one phase or with a few specific circuits. There are lots of posts here detailing exactly how to do just that. It doesn't take very long to do (and it is even faster with a good helper), and you may just find the cause of your problem that way.