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[Boogy]

Jeff,
Thanks for chiming in sir.  If you will, please elaborate on your last statement.  Is wiring a 3-prong plug to a XTB-IIR something you would do on your end?  Or is it something that I would do and if so is it a fairly easy process?  If you read my thread you can see that I'm not very familiar with any of this stuff but the guys here have been great trying to get me going in the right direction. 

[JeffVolp]

A number of people have wired a dryer plug to the XTB-IIR.  A standard 10 gauge molded dryer cord cannot be used because that is too heavy to wire into the XTB-IIR.  Places like Lowes and Home Depot carry separate dryer plugs for about $20.  You can also buy an appropriate length of 3 conductor 16 or 18 gauge power cord to run from the plug to the XTB-IIR.  While more complex than replacing a lamp cord, the average do-it-yourselfer should have no problem.

Please contact me directly if you would need that done for you.

Note that the dryer connection cannot be used if you have an electric dryer because the plugs do not include a feed-through for the dryer like the SignaLinc.

One other thing to consider is how far your dryer is located from the distribution panel.  If that is much over 50 feet, a lot of signal can be lost in that run, especially for the round-trip required by a SignaLinc.

Jeff

[Noam]

When I installed my XTB-IIR, I added a new double-breaker in my breaker box (one half connects to each phase), and brought that out to feed a new NEMA 6-20 (if I remember correctly) 220V outlet, mounted in a separate box right near my breaker box. I attached a length of 12/3 (although 14/3 would have been a bit easier to work with) to the terminals on the board inside the XTB-IIR, and connected the other end to a NEMA 6-20 right-angle plug (I got both the plug and outlet at Home Depot). I didn't need the right-angle plug, but it makes the installation look a lot neater.

At the same time, I wired an additional split-wired duplex outlet in the box with the 220V socket.
The top outlet is wired to one "hot" wire from the new breaker, and the bottom outlet is wired to the other "hot" wire.

It was only a few minutes of extra work to add this when I was putting the new box in. The two outlets can function as "test" outlets to locate noise or other problems, which can be measured separately on each phase. Because there is nothing else on those circuits (other than the XTB-IIR and the CM15A plugged into it), I can turn off everything else in the house to isolate potential noise issues.