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[Noam]

Once upon a time, I had a 1uf cap installed from line to line in the breaker panel.  I used a 1uf 500v polycarbonate capacitor because they have very low series inductance.  It worked OK but because I didn't have room for adding breakers, I had the cap connected line to line on an existing 15 amp lighting breaker set.  The problem with doing this is if you open one of these breakers to work on the wiring at a light fixture, you would find the circuit was still hot via the 1uf cap.  I may try to install the 1uf line to line in the kitchen range circuit which is supplied by a mechanically bridged breaker.  I will put the cap inside a metal enclosure behind, beside or under the unit and include a 1A fuse in the box in case the cap fails.  It's simple, but in my case it was effective.

That's just about the same reason I installed mine in my A/C disconnect box.
I was out of room for breakers (I've since had a heavy-up done, so I now have more room for expansion). I also didn't feel comfortable installing the capacitor inside the breaker box. It was too cramped, and I was worried of something going wrong. I was able to turn off the double-pole breaker for the A/C (at the breaker box), and be comfortable that the 220V, two phase line going to that disconnect box was dead, too.
The capacitor was installed long before I ever got the XTB-IIR, and had actually fixed MOST of my signal issues. I have a feeling that more of my issues would have been solved by moving both the capacitor and my CM15A closer to the breaker box, ensuring a shorter signal path all around. I've had the XTB-IIR for over a year now, and I know the capacitor isn't needed anymore. However, Jeff said there was no harm in leaving it in place, and I don't really want to mess with that disconnect box if I don't have to.

Instead of installing the capacitor behind the range, you might consider tapping into the line as it exits the breaker box.
You could pull the cable going to the range out of the breaker and the box, and run it into a separate junction box, and then install a shorter cable from that junction box to the breaker box and into the breaker. You would then install the capacitor (fused, as you suggested) in that bow, where you join the two cables together.

That would give you a place close to the breaker box (and the center of the "star" topology of your home's electrical layout) where you would be bridging the signals, yet still have the ability to disconnect it with a mechanically ganged double breaker.

[Backward Engineering]

When I wrote CCFL, I of coarse should have written CFL.  My mind was on another project repairing a LCD with a CCFL backlight display.  This topic may actually belong under a different forum subject 

I picked up a 100W (equivalent) dim-able CFL for under $10 at BigLots today.  I don't have the lamp with me at the moment and can therefor not report the make and model at this time.  The package had warnings stating that the life of the lamp would be shortened by dimming the lamp.  So I installed it in a light socket controlled by an older two wire X10 light switch.  To my surprise, the lamp do not strobe with the X10 Switch off.  I was able to turn the CFL on and off from the wall switch, however the X10 wall switch module would not respond to any commands sent from the command module.  I don't think CFLs will ever be the best lamp to buy if dimming is important.  At the same store, I saw a CFL that clearly stated in bold print that it was for outdoor use.  Reading the fine print, I found a statement that said the warranty would be voided if the lamp was used outdoors.  But then, who am I to question this discrepancy, I'm not a lawyer?  "I are engineer"

Don

[Brian H]

They do make CCFL light bulbs for replacing incandescent bulbs.
I have a few to test and they do dim fine, but not with a 2 wire X10 wall switch.
LM465s, three wire dimmers like Insteon and Icon do work with them.
Though as mentioned. Make X10 noise and the MicroBrites I had actually spewed an RF signal that got into my XTBM [had to be very close] causing a reading. I sent Jeff one to observe.
Also mine had a design problem. Seems they had a knack to work for a few months, then go On and Off as they warmed up.

Specialty bulbs like refrigerator and oven use. Are exempt [for now] from the effency regulations.

[Backward Engineering]

Here is the schematic of a passive coupler that I built today.  It can also be used as a coupler for an oscilloscope input.  A second winding on the inductor would provide an isolated source for the oscilloscope.