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[abracewell]

Hello All,

Let me start by explaining that my electrical expertise is limited at best so any help at all is appreciated.  My employer recently had me replace two WS467 remote wall switches in his backyard for two WS4777 units.  One of the 467s appeared to have failed and Home Depot only carried the 4777 model.

The switches are used to control outside lighting.  One switch being responsible for one light, the second switch being responsible for two different lights.  I replaced both switches on Friday and all of the lights began to work.  After I left however first the original lights that weren't working went off.  Then the light that had been working went off as well.

Because both lights failed I assumed that the wiring had just come undone as both blue wires are connected to the same red.  When I went outside this morning however and redid the wiring only the original working light works.  With both units being brand new and having confirmed that they both work on the one light my only conclusion is that one of the wires isn't getting power.

Can anyone offer any other conclusions?  If this is the case what is the solution to fix the problem.  I don't have a voltmeter to confirm this and don't see the point in going to buy one if I'm going to have to hire an electrician anyways.

[Brian H]

The red wire you are talking about is from the electrical wiring and not the Red trigger wire from the WS4777 master switch?
The red trigger wires on the WS4777 masters should just be capped off and not used.

[abracewell]

Ya so the two blue wires are each connected to the control from the electrical wiring with the black wires connected to the hot wires.  The red wires on the switch are just capped

[dave w]

  I don't have a voltmeter to confirm this and don't see the point in going to buy one if I'm going to have to hire an electrician anyways.

Voltmeter lots cheaper, and will tell what's hot and what's not.

If you have a Harbor Freight close by, they have digital voltmeters for under 5 bucks.

[abracewell]

Voltmeter confirmed that both wires were hot.  Turned out one of the switches had failed (the switch connected to the same line that failed originally).  I replaced the switch with a new one only to have the new one fail.  Any ideas as to what is wrong with this line that is ruining these switches?  The other line works fine.  I'm really stumped here.  Maybe too much current?

[Brian H]

Normal incandescent lights?
WS467s don't like to drive other types of loads.

[abracewell]

It's outdoor lighting but all incandescent all 120V.

[Noam]

It's outdoor lighting but all incandescent all 120V.

What's the total wattage of all the lights controlled by this switch?
The WS467 has a maximum wattage of 500 Watts.

[abracewell]

There's 5 lights between two switches for a total of maybe 400W

[evadorev]

MOST OF THE TIME in that kind of setup, you`re suposed to have one line and two loads, your two switches controlling each load.

The black wires on your modules goes to the line wires wich are supposed to be connected together and you have two independent black wires wich is your loads. you connect your blue wires to these independent wires. one of the load can be a red wire assuming that is not a 3way installation.

I`m pretty sure it`s not an 3way install because you use an WS467 before wich are not 3way switches.

The next time you post, tell us what is the numbers of wires of each color you have in the box and describe the way each wire is connected. It will help us figure out the way it`s plugged. Knowing that will help us help you.

hope it will help

[dave w]

Any ideas as to what is wrong with this line that is ruining these switches?  The other line works fine.  I'm really stumped here.  Maybe too much current?

I'm asking for flames here, but are you sure they have failed? Did they snap or pop when you pushed the button on the switch after connection? Yes, too much current will cause them to fail, but 400 Watts certainly would not cause instant failure.

[Brian H]

You may want to retest the two wires with line voltage on them with the bulbs removed from the fixtures. You can get false readings through bulbs in some cases.
May sound simple but did you verify someone didn't move the safety switch on the bottom edge of the push button Off?