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[localuser]

So I wasn't paying attention and grabbed the powersupply for my netbook (18 volts) and plugged it into my airpad 7p and fried it.  oops.  Anyhow I thought maybe I could open it up and figure out what exactly fried.

Has anyone opened up their airpad and is the power regulator circuit easy to identify in it?    Just curious if anyone has any thoughts on this or did something similar.

Thanks

[X10 Repair Depot]

There will be nearly zero chance of fixing it yourself.

However, at this point you have nothing to lose. To open a 7p, just remove the 2 screws on the side of the unit and remove the back cover. Twisting the unit slightly may help to release the cover enough to pull it off. Be careful not to break the wires going to the speaker.

[dave w]

Maybe the Airpad has a surface mounted fuse(?) If so, it will probably look like a chip resistor and likely be very near, and on the circuit trace from the center pin of the power connector. Perhaps "depot" will know if the AP is fused on the external power input.
Armed with that information you could try and replace it. I would not reccommend soldering a fine wire (aka "magnet wire") short across the open fuse, as that would be unsafe.

[B.A.]

I'll sell you mine for parts.
It's in perfect working order.
I just don't use it because I hate it

[HA Dave]

I got my Android (4.0) 7" tablet about the time X10 was getting out of the tablet biz. So the brand on mine isn't X10. But I love the little thing. It's a darn shame more isn't/hasn't been, done with tablets... of whatever flavor.

[localuser]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I did crack mine open but don't see any fuses or any areas that look damaged.  I even looked at it under my lighted magnifying glass and didn't see anything. 

Here are some pictures of both sides of the board for those interested..  My next thought was maybe the battery has an internal fuse that blew.  So I applied 4.5 volts to the battery terminal wires but she wouldn't power up either.

I have since purchased another used chinese 7" tab from ebay for 40 bucks so I guess this one is going to end up on the shelf collecting dust with my other retired electronics and blown x10 modules. 

[Brian H]

Take a look at the small square part. Just to the right of the power input jack and slightly lower than the center pin.
It maybe {hard to say for sure} a surface mounted fuse.

[dave w]

Take a look at the small square part. Just to the right of the power input jack and slightly lower than the center pin.
It maybe {hard to say for sure} a surface mounted fuse.

Localuser,
Piggy backing on Brian's comments:
I agree with Brian, I think he identified what could be a chip fuse in your second picture. If you have a multi meter try measuring the resistance between the center pin of the power connector (the contact on the back) and the top of the chip Brian has identified. If it is zero ohms, the chip is directly connected to the positive side of the external power input which would be a good indication of a fuse. Measure across the chip for resitance. If it measures open, or very, very high resistance, it is good indication it *was* the fuse.

[localuser]

Putting a meter acroos the component measures about 85 ohms.    That is "in circuit" so it is difficult to determine if maybe the current is traveling through that component or some other.   However, When I place one lead on the + wire leading to the battery and the center pin I get a reading of about 90 ohms, so there is no "open" circuit between the tow. 

Good idea though and it was worth looking and measuring.  I searched a few of the part numbers on some of the compents and didn't come across an inline fuse or thermosister part number.   

[Brian H]

Then it maybe a small chip capacitor across the Plus and Minus power input.

[BuBuSpidecky]

If you can get the board out, look closely at the bottom where the power comes in and follow the tracings.
Look for ANYTHING that looks burnt. Apply a droplet of Hard-As-Nails (nail polish section in Drug store, Get some Acetate nail polish remover to), let it dry over night. Use a Scalar (Dentist tool) Wrapped with cotton dipped in Acetate to gently remove the Hard-as-Nails and some of the coating on the board on each side of the burn. Cut a sliver of Match Solder (Radio Shack) a itty bit longer than the cleaned area. Use a soldering Iron (not a gun or you might fry all the chips) to 'touch' the two ends and seal them to the board tracings.

Been doing this since the 70's with my first Summit Calculator. Works most every time.

Also check and replace every Capacitor and Diode on the board if that doesn't work.