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Hey all, I'm pretty new so forgive any strange questions. I did some research before posting this so I hope I'm not asking the already covered.

I just installed an XPCP phase coupler hoping it would fix my problems and it doesn't appear to have helped at all. I'm not inexperienced in wiring things to my panel. I'm fairly certain I have the coupler connected properly.

Is there any sure fire test to see if the coupler is actually functional? I got it off ebay, listed as new, but if it's defective how would I determine it?

I did an inventory of my panel and mapped out every last switch and outlet. I've identified each one's phase and have a pretty good idea of where the wires are all run.

I'm thinking I'm either having noise issues or distance perhaps? My house isn't huge by any means. It is an older house but it is all copper, some very new and some older.

I did identify one source of noise I believe. My hall light wasn't coming on, I unplugged my microwave and now it works. They are apparently on the same circuit (I verified this). Do many microwaves cause noise, or will newer ones be better? This is occurring when the microwave isn't running, so I found that odd.

Considering that I notice no improvement to anywhere in my house with the coupler, and after mapping out what each light or outlet's phase is, one thing that is strange to me is I have issues talking to some circuits on the same phase as the circuit my cm15a is plugged into. BUT I am also experiencing excellent reliability in some rooms that are on the opposite phase.

Particularly, Let's say my cm15a is on phase B in my office. My living room lights, porch lights, fireplace controller and ir543 receiver are all in the same circuit, and they are on phase A. I haven't experienced a single reliability issue with these devices. So to me that might suggest I don't have issue bridging phases, with or without a phase coupler.

My dinning room however has exhibited various reliability issues, which is strange because it is on phase B. What's more strange to me is unlike my living room circuit with many many electronics connected to it, my dinning room really has just one lamp module connected to it.

So, same phase as cm15a, few devices = issues. Opposite phase of cm15a, many devices = no issues.

Presuming I don't have phase bridging issues, what am I left with? I can't have noise on the dinning room circuit, can it be noise from another? Can this be an issue with distance? From my office to the breaker to either room they look about the same distance to me.

I'm going to continue troubleshooting tomorrow. Swapping breaker positions regardless of them being on the same phase. Turning all breakers off but the one to my pc, and the offending area. Testing as such.

As a last note, I do own a leviton plug in signal booster. These don't work very well, the lock up. BUT when I plugged this in, my dinning room and my hall light appeared to work well, even with the microwave plugged in. I had it plugged into my dinning room, the room I can't get a signal to the lamp module. So the lamp module can't read the signal, but the booster can? I find that odd, I thought they have to be placed somewhere that can get a half decent signal. Maybe the booster is just better at picking up weak signals.

Any tips? Thanks.

[Brian H]

Many newer electronic devices can cause problems. We have even seen things like electronic controls in washers, dryers, refrigerators, stove and ovens to name a few. Cause problems. Some CFL, LED Bulbs and low voltage lighting with switching supply drivers. Computer power supplies and UPS units. The list can go on and on for known problem signal suckers and noise makers.

I have used the JV Engineering XTBM X10 meter to test my house. With an XTB-IIR I have at least a 1.25 volt X10 signal on every outlet in my home.
http://jvde.us/xtb/XTBM_description.htm

One point with a passive phase coupler. It can only pass the level of signal it received. So if the controller sends a 5 volt signal and it is like 1 volt at the breaker panel. Only that 1 volt signal is pass back to the other phase. Along with any noise also present.
A coupler repeater will send a full level signal back on the other phase.
Many of us here use the JV Engineering XTB-IIR. It blasts signals back on the other phase. ACT CR234 has a good reputation.
http://jvde.us//xtb/XTB-IIR_description.htm

Good troubleshooting tutorials and information.
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
http://www.act-remote.com/PCC/uncle.htm
http://www.davehouston.net/

[JeffVolp]

I did an inventory of my panel and mapped out every last switch and outlet. I've identified each one's phase and have a pretty good idea of where the wires are all run.

While breakers normally alternate phases in each column, it may not be easy to tell which phase is which from one side to the other unless you have the panel layout or there are some open breaker positions.  In some panels the breakers in the same row are on the same phase, and in other panels they are on opposite phases.

I initially configured this house wrong because I was familiar with our last breaker panel, in which the top row were on the same phase, the next row down on the opposite phase,  and so on.  This Square D panel has the top row on opposite phases, and then they alternate back and forth as you go down the panel.

Jeff

[shake]

While breakers normally alternate phases in each column...

Thanks you have a good point. I was starting to think this myself. I'm going to go pull some breakers so I can determine if my panel is either:

A B
B A

or

A A
B B

This will help me troubleshoot better, however I'm still confused why this matters since I have a coupler. Depending on if the phases zigzag or not in the panel, if I'm connecting my coupler to two breakers one above another, in both situations one should be A and one should be B.

[shake]

One point with a passive phase coupler...

Thank you, I'll read up on those posts. I'm weary about repeaters because as I said I do have a leviton repeater already and it works fine when receiving the slow predictable input from remotes and such, but when I use the scripts I've automated with my computer, the repeater just can't keep up, it seems to get stuck in a repeat loop and locks up the whole system.

I think Filters for some issues might be my solutions. But I get confused if I need 5,10,15 amp filters. It's not the most predictable thing to calculate when you want to isolate a large number of devices on a power bar. For example just because I have a 550 watt power supply doesn't mean my computer comes close to utilizing that.

What I find odd is there's a clear noise issue with my microwave, but in my office where I have the cm15a connected, I have many electronics. Two computers, two monitors, printer, UPS, etc etc. I own pretty high quality stuff though so perhaps they're less likely to produce noise.

[Brian H]

Many panels have a breaker map on the inside cover.
You may want to look and see if yours has one.
If you have half width breaker. There maybe two adjacent ones on the same phase.

Computers and related devices. May not be making noise.
They may have an AC Input Filter built in and are absorbing the X10 signals as noise they want to eliminate.
Many times called a signal sucker here.
Also power bars with built in surge suppression or filters. May also be a signal sucker.

[dhouston]

I tried to keep this short, sweet and simple...

• http://www.davehouston.net/noise.htm

[shake]

OOOOKKK so I made some progress here.

I found a thread that recommended you use a multimeter to test voltage between L1 and L2 on the coupler as it should read 240v. I previously testing each leg individually and of course I got 120, never tried checking for 240. What do you know when I tried this I wasn't getting any reading. I wish I could find the thread again so I could give credit.

Anyway, I pulled some breakers and as it turns out the A/B pattern wasn't like any other examples I saw online. Mine is as follows:

A A
A A
B B
B B
Repeat.

This is good to know for the future because this means it is very important where I put 240v double breakers. As you can see if I were to install a new 240 appliance if I put the breaker at the top of my box, both legs would be on A. So I have to offset them by one.

Anyway I moved the breaker and now I read 240!. I still haven't tested anything I'm about to now, wish me luck.

Thank you all for speedy replies and good info. I'm going to keep these links and make sure I post them on my blog. Speaking of which I have some videos that you might enjoy on it, my blog is homeawesomation.wordpress.com

[shake]

Just tested my two most problematic spots, my stairs lights and my ir543 when plugged into same outlet as my home theater equipment. Unfortunately the phase coupler, presuming it's functioning correctly, didn't help either. I will continue to troubleshoot based on the advice you all have provided.

[shake]

Maybe a dumb question but does it matter which phase goes where in the XPCP coupler?

There is L1 and L2, does it matter if A goes to 1 and B goes to 2, or vice versa?

[Brian H]

No it should no matter.
As long as both N1 and N2 are both on the neutral buss.

[shake]

sorry for the multiple posts, posting as I learn new things. Been working hard today.

To recap, after Identifying my phase layout and after properly connecting the coupler I still was having issues with my stairs lights and my ir543 due to apparent interference. Even thought the coupler appears to be installed correctly I did notice that both of those circuits were on phase B and my cm15a was on phase A. IF the coupler was working as I thought it should, this shouldn't matter in the sense that it is the entire point of a coupler. But I decided to switch both circuits to A anyway. So now both problem devices and my cm15a are on phase A.

After doing this, my problems have gone away. Regardless of the interference from my microwave, and from my TV + xbox (not one or the other, only an issue with both plugged in), when they're on the same phase as the cm15a the noise isn't enough of an issue to matter.

This strikes me as odd because that was my train of thought when I bought the coupler. "Maybe I have noise but if it doesn't have to cross phases perhaps it won't matter". So since I've proven this theory to be true in my case, why does the coupler still not help me?

I'm sure from all the reading I've done the answer isn't so simple, but I thought the issue with weak signals getting from one phase to another was because it had to leave my house, go some distance and come back through the house where the city split phased my power line. Since the coupler is supposed to eliminate that issue, and since it's only a 4 foot run to the coupler (so I guess 8 feet in total) I would have expected this coupler to more or less accomplish the same thing as me physically moving breakers to the same phase.

I have more rooms to outfit soon, so this coupler investment was hopefully to make it so I don't have to make thought out decisions on what breakers host which devices.

[shake]

No it should no matter.
As long as both N1 and N2 are both on the neutral buss.

To clarify my setup, I only have one neutral wire as it's a 12-3 wire. On the coupler itself I bridge N1 and N2 together using a small piece of 12 gauge wire, Then run the neutral from N1 back to the neutral bus. I think the instructions suggest this if I understand them correctly.

[Brian H]

Yes should be fine.
I would say almost everyone would just jump N1 to N2 and use a single wire back to the Neutral buss.

[shake]

Thanks. You may have read, I did get my issues resolved by moving breakers. I'm curious if you have any thoughts on what I said 4 posts up.