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[WallyH]

Hello,
This is my first post to this forum as I just recently joined and have just purchased and installed a Securilink SC1200. Here is my question. I would like modify the SC1200 console & mount a red led outside of my house so that I can positively identify when it is armed (led stays lit) or disarmed (led is off) when using the remote fob from outside of my house. Right now I never really know 100% & have been "caught" a couple of times entering my house because the unit was not disarmed even though I pressed the Disarm Button on the fob before entering my house. What I would like to do is to somehow connect a wire, probably solder, to the pc board where the arm led is in the SC1200 then run that wire to a led mounted outside of my house. That way it takes the guess work out of.....is it armed or not.
Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Wally

[Knight2nite]

Better late than never.  Sure would be nice if X10 made a plug-in indicator module that would respond to a SC 1200 remote, but that's an idea for another forum.

I have a legacy custom designed alarm system that I only use for some indoor things.  But I wired several rooms in the house and a couple of places outside the house with red LEDs to indicate on/off status.  The system is controlled by an x10 module.  Not the most secure way to do it but when I designed it 25 years ago to today I haven't met many people who even know what X10 is.

Anyway, when I installed my SC1200 I focused on the on/off green led status light on the unit.  I purchased some photocells off Ebay (had to buy 88 so now I have 87 left) for cheap.  Less than $5.  I mounted a photo cell over the green LED on the 1200 and attached it to a Powerflash module in the 3rd position and set the house and unit code to the legacy security system, which is different from the SC 1200 codes.  The theory is that when the 1200 is armed it tells the powerflash to send the code to turn on the legacy system and hence all indicator lights.  Disarmed, the lights go out.

Worked about 50% of the time because of the x10 signal collisions between the 1200 and the powerflash.  I was able to tweek this in Homeseer by adding a couple of if/then commands which received either "on" signal and delayed for 3 seconds then send out the code for the legacy system again.

The next problem was when the alarm tripped, the 1200 flashing it's assigned lights also sent the same signals to Homeseer causing it to send out the "on" command to the legacy system each time it received the 1200 signal. Needless to say there was a rash of conflicting commands from both the 1200 and Homeseer.  Again in Homeseer I was able to use the "trigger once" in a 10 minute period to take care of that.

When the 1200 is deactivated, the green led goes out, the powerflash send and off command to the legacy system and all is good.

Still not perfect but kinda cool in a Rube Goldberg sort of way.

[b0b99]

I know this is an old thread but if anyone is still interested in adding a remote LED to their
SC1200 console (and has some soldering skills), here is how I did it on mine.

In the SC1200 console I connected a lead to the land pattern just above the Armed LED and below
the label R15 (see picture). The green paint must be scrapped off before trying to solder to this point.
Be especially careful to not over heat this connection as there is a surface mount resistor also connected here.
For the negative side I connected a lead to the negative side of the
large filter capacitor (see picture). These two wires go to a mini phone jack mounted in the top
edge of the console, next to the battery box (see picture). Instructions for opening the console
were covered in excellent detail by WallyH in http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=28022.0

On the remote end I made a two transistor circuit to drive the LEDs so the SC1200 console circuitry
would not be overloaded. I used two high intensity LEDs and have one in the garage and one visible
from the front door. The schematic of this circuit is below. In operation this circuit only draws
about 22 micro-amps from the console.

I take no responsibility for anyone who wants to try this. You must be careful as the land patterns
are close together. If you don't feel comfortable working in areas like this then don't as you can easily ruin the console.
Obviously you would do this with power and batteries removed from the console!

Sorry, looks like I do not have enough posts to be able to add pictures. Maybe someone else can post them for me.

[Brian H]

Looks like an interesting project.
The newbie status should change after a few more posts.