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[BlueScreenOfTOM]

Ah, I only saw the 4816... I'd rather have the 4826 though.  Unfortunately I can't find any for sale anywhere.  Guess I'll need to put a watch query on eBay.

Speaking of eBay, I see a couple of FilterLincs out there... a pair of 5A ones and a 10A one.  Unfortunately the auctions don't end for a week, and the prices seem a bit high ($20-$30 range).  Looks like Smarthome is still selling the 1626-10 via Amazon with FSSS for $30.  I might just bite the bullet and go with that.

[Brian H]

So you know what to look for.
There are two 4826 models.
4826A SignaLinc Repeater - 4 Prongs
4826B SignaLinc Repeater - 3 Prongs

[bkenobi]

My experience was that adding the XTB-IIR and a few filters solved my PLC problems for all but 1 module.  I still have some noise generated by my dryer control board and my furnace control board.  But, with the XTB-IIR and those other issues sorted by filters, these last 2 biggies were not enough to warrant the trouble fixing them.  If there were an easy way to filter them without voiding warranties, I'd probably filter them too, though.

In my case, I picked an outlet that was closest to the panel on each leg and turned on breakers one by one recording noise levels and signal strengths using my XTBM as meter and XTB-IIR as signal source.  Once I knew what circuits were problems, I then found the sources of noise/signal suckers.  I picked the worst ones and filtered them (computers, entertainment center, refrigerator, washing machine, cell phone chargers).  I had a pretty good signal everywhere, but found another few filterlinc's on ebay for cheap, so I went ahead and filtered a couple other items that were marginal (e.g., TiVo).

This is a time consuming process, but it does make a large difference in reliability.

[Noam]

My experience was that adding the XTB-IIR and a few filters solved my PLC problems for all but 1 module.  I still have some noise generated by my dryer control board and my furnace control board.  But, with the XTB-IIR and those other issues sorted by filters, these last 2 biggies were not enough to warrant the trouble fixing them.  If there were an easy way to filter them without voiding warranties, I'd probably filter them too, though.

In my case, I picked an outlet that was closest to the panel on each leg and turned on breakers one by one recording noise levels and signal strengths using my XTBM as meter and XTB-IIR as signal source.  Once I knew what circuits were problems, I then found the sources of noise/signal suckers.  I picked the worst ones and filtered them (computers, entertainment center, refrigerator, washing machine, cell phone chargers).  I had a pretty good signal everywhere, but found another few filterlinc's on ebay for cheap, so I went ahead and filtered a couple other items that were marginal (e.g., TiVo).

This is a time consuming process, but it does make a large difference in reliability.

When I installed my XTB-IIR, I wired it to allow for future testing. Jeff had suggested wiring up the two new breakers (one on each phase) to a dedicated a 220V outlet, and then wiring a plug to the XTB-IIR. I took his advice, but I went one step further. I added a 110V duplex outlet in the same box, which I split-wired (top outlet to one phase, bottom to the other). That gives me a dedicated outlet on each phase, with nothing else on that circuit (other than the XTB-IIR, of course). I can now turn off EVERY breaker (other than the XTB-IIR one), and get a true baseline of noise generated on each circuit one at a time. When I (eventually) get myself an XTBM, I'll have a great spot to plug it in to get a baseline, before testing on each branch circuit. I clearly marked the front coverplate of the box "FOR X10 ONLY", which should prevent stupid mistakes.

[dave w]

Man, you guys are energetic.

[bkenobi]

I added a 110V duplex outlet in the same box, which I split-wired (top outlet to one phase, bottom to the other).

Now that's a good idea!  I did it the hard way when debugging my one trouble module.  I took a 15A outlet and put hot, neutral, ground wires on and wired it directly into a breaker.  It was a pain in the but and a little sketchy.  The 12AWG wire helped keep it in place, but it's certainly not as slick as your setup.  If I hadn't already mapped my house, I'd seriously consider adding an outlet like yours!

[BlueScreenOfTOM]

Just as a follow-up to this, I was able to get my target lamp working.  I narrowed the issue down to 2 large-offending signal suckers -- one on the same circuit as my SC1200 and the other on the same circuit as the target lamp.  I got two Filterlincs from eBay to fix the problem.  I also picked up one of the 220v dryer-plug phase couplers I mentioned earlier, the 4816 I believe.  I'm not sure if I need that, but it doesn't hurt I guess.

[Brian H]

Thank you for the update and that you had success.