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[dave w]

Dave W, Wasnt thinking about the NEW Transformer, Was thinking of the lightening strike that blew the Transformer and sent a surge through my wiring, But put a TM751 on the same circuit as the couch lamps and the porch lights and thats the reason I can control the couch/porch lights with an RF signal but for some reason something is still sucking up the signal via the CM15A,

RE: "The Surge" (sounds like a hollywood disaster movie). My WAG would be no, mainly because if I am reading this thread correctly, you have gotten everything to work (intermitantly). I *think* a surge would cause permanent damage, not something that comes and goes. But as stated prior, nothing is certain.

The CM15A is on a different breaker than the couach lights, correct? (daughters room?). So when CM15A can not control coach lights, did you try turning off all breakers except coach circuit and CM15A circuit and retest with a remote?
 
Also, did you try the CM15A in same outlet as TM751 to see if it could get to the coach lights then? Remember dhouston said the CM15A outputs a weaker signal than the TM751. Maybe you have got it to the point a XPCR repeater can get a signal through.

[dhouston]

Remember dhouston said the CM15A outputs a weaker signal than the TM751.

I believe he said his TM751 is new. That may mean it has a slightly lower signal (5Vpp) than the CM15A (6Vpp).

• http://davehouston.org/x10-sig.htm

[PK]

Thanks dave w and Easttexasdragon.  I reconfigured my timers as non-softstart and downloaded them to the CM15A.  I can now control them from ActiveHome Pro!  My next step is to wait and see if they turn on and off automatically.  I should have my answer in a couple of days.  I'll post the results.

[Easttexasdragon]

Dave and Dhouston, The TM751 is not brand new, I sold it to a friend with some X10 cameras several months ago, and I have had it several years, I had my friend bring it back to me a few days ago so I could use it to test with. But it also has "Tested To Comply With FCC Standards" on label so thats makes it a 5Vpp anyway.

Dave I turned all the breakers off except for the one with the CM15A and the breaker with the porch light and couch lamps on it. I can not control the couch lamps or porch light from the CM15A but can with the Remote with a 3 second delay, the TM751 is plugged in on the porch, If I unplug it then the remote doesnt work. What I was wondering about the lightening surge was if it may have started stuff to going bad? Because it fried my CPU that my TV and Dish receiver was plugged into.

Just for giggles I moved the CM15A to the couch wall, so far its working, it turned on the wireless printer at the set time, We will see what it does tonight when its time to turn on the lights and turn them off.

[Easttexasdragon]

Well I give up.....    Now I cant get my Laptop to see the CM15A, It says the device has malfunctioned, I have tried different USB ports, A New USB cable and restarted the laptop, Now I'm resetting the CM15A....

[dave w]

Dave I turned all the breakers off except for the one with the CM15A and the breaker with the porch light and couch lamps on it. I can not control the couch lamps or porch light from the CM15A but can with the Remote with a 3 second delay, the TM751 is plugged in on the porch, If I unplug it then the remote doesnt work.

What I was wondering about the lightening surge was if it may have started stuff to going bad?

Well that is truely wierd. The TM751 transceives immediatley any RF command to the powerlines. It does not check for powerline traffic before transmitting...so what could be causing the 3 second delay if the CM15A is unplugged? I can't explain that one. Are you sure you don't have a RR501 still connected in the barn, shed, garage, crawlspace, etc? Only thing I can suggest is concemtrate on those two circuits. (if possible) Unplug everything except the CM15A and try the porch light. BTW as a semi off the wall suggestion, go to your breaker panel and gently press on each breaker to reseat (yes, reseat, not reset).

Lightning caused degradation? Anything is possible. My Florida (one of the lightning capitals) experiences with lightning surges was total gizmo death, and not symptoms of "getting a little sick". But I repeat "anything is possible".

[dave w]

Well I give up.....    Now I cant get my Laptop to see the CM15A, It says the device has malfunctioned, I have tried different USB ports, A New USB cable and restarted the laptop, Now I'm resetting the CM15A....

Texas, I am beginning to think you should not have X10. Or perhaps your supposition is correct and your CM15A is dying slowly. But I'm going with the former.

[Easttexasdragon]

Dave, thanks for your vote of confidence, LOL, Well resetting the CM15A got it fixed, EVERYTHING NOW WORKS 

[Dan Lawrence]

Good for you!!   Hope it continues as a good working AHP is a wondrous thing.

[dave w]

good working AHP is a wondrous thing.

Dan, no truer words were ever spoken! 

[Easttexasdragon]

I agree Dan, I have been using AHP back when the computer interface plugged into the serial port. 

Dave and Dhouston thanks for all your words of wisdom, you guys helped me a bunch. So far everything is still working. 

[PK]

Congratulations Easttexasdragon.  I loaded my new timers into my old CM15A.  I am able to control via ActiveHome Pro and the USB cable via my computer but the timers (non-softstart) don't work.  They still turn off but not on.  I checked my timers and they appear to be set properly.  Anyway... I've loaded the timers into my new CM15A to eliminate the chance of a hardware failure.  I'll keep you posted.

[dave w]

Dave and Dhouston thanks for all your words of wisdom, you guys helped me a bunch. So far everything is still working. 

Texas, careful or you will re-invoke the curse. <grins>

[Brian H]

Using dimmable LED bulbs with Lamp Modules. May depend on the their hardware version.
I have tested Philips, Sylvania, Lighting Science Group and Ecosmart bulbs with varied LM465s.
Most worked fine a few where flaky depending on the vintage LM465.
The Phillips L-Prize bulb pulsed at 100% On with a newer Soft Start model but was fine with the older model.
The original Philips 12.5 watt EnduraLED worked with both while the improved version 12.5 watt EnduraLED was touchy.

None of them worked with the two wire X10 wall switches as expected. As they steal power through the load.

I have seen Home Depot and the well known LED manufacturer CREE. Selling a CREE line of LED bulbs starting at <$10 for the 40 watt equivalent bulb and the 60 watt version at around $12.50 each in a four pack.
I have seen mixed reviews of the CREE bulbs. Maybe early production glitches.

[dhouston]

I would expect that LED lights also use switching power supplies and thus may exhibit the same noise signatures of many CFLs. It may only appear after a few months of use as has been the case with some of the CFLs.