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[ekraus]

I have been using X10 products for more than 20 years.
Never really had any serious problems in 3 different houses.
I recently replaced 2 ICON Switches with XPS3 switches.
Although the switches turn on with no problem the will not turn off even when the off commands
are sent multiple times from an 1132cu, and its only these 2 switches. My other 16+ units work fine.
Some of the modules are more than 20 years old.
I have a .1uf orange drop bridging cap on the main panel that most of the modules are connected to.
I recently installed a .1uf Mylar cap with a 18uH inductor in series with it on another panel.
I have tried everything. The only thing that seems to work if any of my controllers are either on the same circuit or on a breaker close to that circuit.
These compact florescents have become a pain.
If I replace the lamps with Incandescents and replace the switch with a ws12 dimmer it works fine. as a matter of fact there is a ws12 on the same circuit of one of the switches and works flawlessly with multiple times and intensitys.
I am stumped!

[Brian H]

On but not Off is frequently the load making power line noise and masking the Off commands.

Does the XPS3 work if you have incandescent bulbs in the problem fixture?

Anything new electronically added to the home recently.

.1uF caps with or with out the 18uH coils have limited effectiveness theses days. With all the new electronic gadgets making power line noise or signal sucking.

Some X10 troubleshooting tutorials.
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
http://www.act-remote.com/PCC/uncle.htm

[JeffVolp]

.1uF caps with or with out the 18uH coils have limited effectiveness theses days. With all the new electronic gadgets making power line noise or signal sucking.

Actually, that is exactly what is inside the SmartHome 4816H SignaLinc.  While a .1uF capacitor has an impedance of 13 ohms at 120KHz, the 18uH inductor cancels out the capacitive reactance, and the series-tuned network has relatively low impedance at 120KHz.

Jeff

[ekraus]

Hmm
Both switches control 4 each 60w cfl's.
Haven't tried incandescent's but I will.
The thing is the Icons worked one failed with the off commands and the other although it worked (on/off) I was unable to change the unit code or reset to factory
Is there a filter can build that will fit into a switch box that I can put between the switch and the load?
I there a schematic for any outer bridging devices?

[Brian H]

Leviton did make a nice 5 amp wired in filter. Unfortunately it was discontinued.
I know other have tried finding small filter. I hope someone has and can provide the information.
Did the local paddles work on your Icons? There was a problem with the small PCB mounted Tact Switches the paddles activated. They would click but not make a connection. Both the Icon and SwitchLinc models had the problems.

I actually changed the 18uH coils in one of my 4816B Dryer Outlet coupler to 15uH to make it closer to the Insteon 131.65KHz.

[ekraus]

The ICON paddles worked on one but not the other.
I remember changing one of the CFL's and then it stopped working.
I have 4 other CFL's that are on a circuit that is switched from an old Radio Shack modified appliance module.
But its in-circuit 30' away. The only thing I did to it was remove the blades of the plug and install wires then remove the
Current sensing circuit. Did that to several of the modules that control my landscape lights. I actually mounted one in the transformer inclosure.
I would hate to convert the entire house to insteon. That would cost me at least 2K.

[Noam]

It could just be a noisy CFL causing the trouble.
As suggested, you might want to try incandescent bulbs to troubleshoot.
You shouldn't need to replace them all - simple replace one in each set, and unscrew the others. If that works, slowly re-introduce the CFLs, one at a time, until the problem comes back. If you find that one specific one causes a problem, remove it, and replace one of the others with it - if the problem comes back, you found the noisy bulb.