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[dennyboy34]

Can anyone help with this question?  Thanks in advance.

The X10 "MS14A" Exterior Motion Sensor sends wireless (RF) signals to X10 RF receivers.

If I use an INSTEON "2413S" PowerLinc Modem Dual-Band Serial Interface to connect to an INSTEON "ISY-994i" Compatible Automation Controller, can the 2413S detect and forward the MS14A RF signal to the ISY-994i, or do I need to add something else, like the "EZX10RF" X10 All-House Transceiver and INSTEON Bridge in order to capture the motion sensor's RF signal?    

[Brian H]

No. The 2413S/U Dual Band PLM. Receives the Insteon 915MHz frequency signal and not the 310MHz X10 frequency signal.

The EZX10RF will tranceive the MS14A's X10 signal and send the X10 command on the power line that the 2413S/U will receive and pass on to the ISY994i. It can also map a specific X10 address to an Insteon power line command if you care to use it.

You can simply use a X10 Transceiver {RR501,TM751} if you just want to get an X10 power line signal command to your ISY994i. From the MS14A's RF Command.
My RR501 sends X10 power line commands my ISY994i.  From my HR12A Palm Pad and UR19A Remote.

The ISY994i has limited capabilities with X10 devices. Like you can trigger programs with a X10 power line signal but you can not add the X10 device to the My ISY Tree.
The optional A10/X10 plug in firmware addition allows you to do a few more things but is not needed for basic X10 things.
http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i_Series_INSTEON:Enhanced_A10/X10

[beelocks]

For a while I used the X10 RF sensors which spoke to my CM15a (with macros to convert the security signals) to transpond power line X10 signals out so that my INSTEON 2413U (with HouseLinc) could use the X10 RF signals in a roundabout way to control both X10 and INSTEON devices.

Yup, it was all getting confusing and slow so I just bit the bullet and bought a handful of INSTEON motion sensors, INSTEON door/window sensors and some INSTEON RemoteLincs (the old ones with loads of buttons). The only thing I miss is the old X10 keychain remote, but since I only used it about twice a month it's no real biggie.

I have found the INSTEON sensors to be more reliable and more flexible with the settings available and they are now driving all my X10 modules with no problems at all since I went "INSTEON RF" last summer.

With the X10 motions now running at $30 a pop, and the INSTEON at $35 it's not worth the fight unless have a whole bunch of X10 stuff that you're desperate to use.

If anyone wants a couple of CM15a along with a dozen ***eyes sensors, a handful of security motions and door/window sensors plus a bunch of assorted remotes you can't have them because they might end up back in use in case a deep nostalgia event that causes me to forget how much trouble I had making them work reliably in the first place

[Brian H]

OH yes. I also like the original RemoteLincs and I found a few brand new surplus from bulk packaging awhile back.
The newer RemoteLinc2 IMHO is a cheesy and flimsy remote.

I still use X10 Primary Addresses in my Insteon Modules. As there is no 16 button Insteon remote that can replace my HR12A Palm Pad.
Also still have a few Chime Modules and Powerflashes in use.

Other than that. I have four 22 Gallon Rubbermaid Totes Boxes full of X10 and Smarthome X10 Clone devices to go through and dispose of much of it.

[Noam]

I still use X10 Primary Addresses in my Insteon Modules. As there is no 16 button Insteon remote that can replace my HR12A Palm Pad.
Also still have a few Chime Modules and Powerflashes in use.

I replaced my less-than-reliable X10 wall switches with Insteon ones a few years ago, and I've only bought Insteon wall switches since then. (I also stopped buying dinners dimmers, since I started switching to CFLs, and I didn't need to dim those lights anyway).
I had one Togglelinc start to fail on me recently - but I think that is a mechanical thing (I think the back of the toggle is starting to get worn where it rubs against the "off" button).

Other than that. I have four 22 Gallon Rubbermaid Totes Boxes full of X10 and Smarthome X10 Clone devices to go through and dispose of much of it.

You might want to post that stuff for sale here on the forums. I sold off some parts a few years back that way. You never know who might want to but the old stuff.

[joe s.]

Since recently installing the XTB-IIR my X10 has become 100% reliable.  So I would sure be interested in capturing a few abandoned items from those who had X10 and walked away.  I've also just purchased HCA11 and the XTB-232 so I can be more creative as to how my old (2 wire - I have no neutrals in my home) X10 switches and modules are utilized.  Noam its funny that you stopped buying DINNERS because of CFL's - I can't see the connection (sorry - it just struck me funny).

Current mfr. dimmable LED's from Cree and Feit (sp?) are also working well with my old X10 technology.  Go figure!

I've been lurking on eBay and a few forums recently waiting for HA people (like Brian H) to abandon their X10 stuff in a go-for-broke Fire-Sale!

[Noam]

Noam its funny that you stopped buying DINNERS because of CFL's - I can't see the connection (sorry - it just struck me funny).

Thanks for catching the typo. I edited my post. ;-)
When I think about it, though, the hanging fixtures over the dining room and kitchen tables *are* using CFL bulbs. We have to wait for them to warm up to full brightness - so technically, our dinners *are* affected by the switch to CFLs. ;-)

[dave w]

 

[joe s.]

OK guys - no laughing at Noam!  I had only a couple CFL's but never really liked them so they were summarily "retired".  I have to say the current selection of "quality" dimmable LED's are pretty impressive and I've been migrating a few at a time into my ceiling pots and one Fan/Floodlight array that always looked kinda yellow to me with incandescent mini floods.  The lights (not the fan) are being controlled by a Leviton 6343WI (again in a 2 wire config) and seems to be working quite nicely.

[Noam]

... I had only a couple CFL's but never really liked them so they were summarily "retired".  I have to say the current selection of "quality" dimmable LED's are pretty impressive and I've been migrating a few at a time into my ceiling pots and one Fan/Floodlight array that always looked kinda yellow to me with incandescent mini floods.  The lights (not the fan) are being controlled by a Leviton 6343WI (again in a 2 wire config) and seems to be working quite nicely.

I have a few problems/concerns with switching to LED bulbs:
1. I need to make sure that the new bulbs will not cause interference with my X10 signals.
2. Even if a single bulb doesn't cause problems, the combined noise from several bulbs *could* become a problem.
3. I need to find the right types of bulbs for my fixtures. I have 3 ceiling fans, with 3 bulbs each. I am currently using 60-watt (incandescent) fan-rated bulbs in all of them. The fan bulbs are an A-15 form factor, which is a little smaller than the standard A-19 bulbs. They also have an extra support to help support the filament given the extra vibration of the motor. I don't know if A-19 equivalent LED bulbs will fit inside the fixtures or not. I can't find A-15 sized bulbs with close to the same amount of light (in lumens) that my current bulbs produce.

[Brian H]

1. The LED bulbs I have tested don't show any noise on my XTBM. The brands I tried don't seem to signal suck either.
Though some I have not tested. May have an AC Input Filter that acts like a signal sucker.

3. If the fan is totally enclosed. I have seen very few manufacturers say they are OK in a fully enclosed fixture. The Switch Infinia is marked that it can be used in a fully enclosed fixture. Switch makes the bulbs with the Liquid Cooling Fluid in them. Many are also heavier than a standard bulb.
My inexpensive small scale. Shows my 9.5W/60W Cree weighs 4 OZ and my 10W/60W Switch Infinia weighs 6.5 OZ. Both are A19 sized.

[joe s.]

My wife bought the four bulbs for the fan/fixture - they are NOT fully enclosed but are shrouded by a "tin bell shaped surround".  Based on appearance I "think" they are Feit R20/DM/LED - but don't hold me to that!  I wasn't scientific about buying them because every (dimmable) LED bulb I've purchased in the past year has been a success when used with my X10 modules and switches.  That wasn't the case two or three years ago - the bulbs were generally a dissapointment - but not lately.  Now I will say that you can't really dim them to 25% - they tend to extinguish very rapidly below (what I would estimate as) 35% in my system.

[Noam]

1. The LED bulbs I have tested don't show any noise on my XTBM. The brands I tried don't seem to signal suck either.
Though some I have not tested. May have an AC Input Filter that acts like a signal sucker.

3. If the fan is totally enclosed. I have seen very few manufacturers say they are OK in a fully enclosed fixture. The Switch Infinia is marked that it can be used in a fully enclosed fixture. Switch makes the bulbs with the Liquid Cooling Fluid in them. Many are also heavier than a standard bulb.
My inexpensive small scale. Shows my 9.5W/60W Cree weighs 4 OZ and my 10W/60W Switch Infinia weighs 6.5 OZ. Both are A19 sized.

The light is not enclosed. There are three glass shades than hang off the bottom of the fan, open at the bottom end. I just don't know what will fit inside, and I haven't had too much time to test it lately.