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[rbarton]

When you disconnected the PC from the CM15A. AHP has no way to send any X10 power line or RF commands. So AHP without a CM15A is rendered useless.

Oh my...I completely zoned on that...got myself turned inside out trying so many combinations!   
Thank you for the gentle correction!

[rbarton]

I originally had the TM751 in use with a couple of X10 remotes.  The remotes eventually stopped working and, for a couple of years, I've just relied on the AHP timers to simply turn lights on/off in the evenings so I don't have to come home to a dark house. 

Given the suggestion to NOT use the TM751 and CM15a on the same house code, how would I accomplish using the CM15a for timers/macros AND the remotes for adhoc on/off? 
 

[rbarton]

Wait a minute...maybe you guys are telling me that a RF remote will communicate with the CM15a and I don't even need the TM751? 
Duh...maybe I am catching on - ever so slowly!!

[joe s.]

Sometimes to maximize RF coverage, people DO use TM751.  Its been a long, long time since I used AHP, but essentially you would create a macro that would hear one code from TM751, and respond by generating another on the powerline.  Almost like a cross-code link.  However I'm the last guy you should ask AHP programming questions - there are tons of folks on various forums who are way-more accustomed to getting the most out of AHP, its features and its numerous plug-ins.

[rbarton]

...but essentially you would create a macro that would hear one code from TM751, and respond by generating another on the powerline.  Almost like a cross-code link.

Thanks Joe, I think I stumbled across a forum discussion on that topic (or actually the reverse scenario)...a macro was designed as a workaround to reach a module that was not responding to PLC. (PLC --> A4; triggered RF command -->B4, via TM751 set to house code B). 

Hopefully the palmpad remote arrives today and I will start doing the troubleshooting you guys have described.  (And, I did find an X10 old credit card remote in a drawer this morning that I will resort to using if mail delivery is slow!)

Happy New Years Eve to all!

[joe s.]

Happy New Years Eve to everyone also.  Enjoy your upcoming "traipsing".

[rbarton]

Traipsing initiated...so far, I've only found 2 outlets that are performing as expected.  Think I should have gone ahead and ordered the XTB-IIR 

Setup:
>  AHP monitored house code = B; Transceived house codes = A, B, C, D

Test 1:
> TM751 set to B, LM465 set to B4 with lamp plugged in (approx 6 ft apart), HR12A remote set to B = WORKS (lamp on/off from HR12A)
Test 2:
> replaced TM751 with CM15a/not connected to PC, other variables the same as Test 1 = WORKS (lamp on/off from HR12A)
> moved LM465 to various other outlets = DID NOT WORK
Test 3:
>  CM15a/connected to PC, AHP modules defined for TM751 (B) & LM465 (B4), other variables same as Test 1 = WORKS (lamp on/off manually from AHP)
Test 4:
> same as 3 with timer set for B4 to turn on lamp at 5:45 & off at 5:48 = WORKS (about 1 min variance each way -- lamp turned on at 5:46; lamped turned off at 5:47)

[joe s.]

Well...Now you have something to work with.  Something actually works!  Time to troubleshoot (AKA serious traipsing).  Remember that unplugging a suspect device is the equivalent (actually better) than filtering it.  You've either got some giant suckers or giant noise generators somewhere if only two outlets work reliably.  Or maybe a house that's chock full of old/cheap/noisy CFL's.  Time to read  http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm  & pursue.  But maybe have a few drinks first - and work tomorrow.  Its New Year's Eve!

[rbarton]

Well, one margarita later, I remembered that the most recent 'change' I made was to add some really cute, vintage, Edison-style light bulbs to the fixtures above my dining table and sink and I do recall the sink light no longer dimming (just hard on/of) - think I will first try removing them and see how things improve (positive thinking)....but yes, the saga will continue tomorrow!

[rbarton]

Well, its a much better day.  I moved everything to a different house code, deleted/added back the modules in AHP, programmed the remote and MUCH IMPROVED!

I am still experimenting with where to place the CM15a.  I can't find a spot where everything I want to control is connecting and I have 2 modules not responding at all.  I think I'll replace those modules and see what happens...and I'm ordering the XTB-IIR!

[joe s.]

So...planning on killing a couple nagging mosquitoes with a shotgun?  I really can't criticize because I did that too. 

If you do go the XTB-IIR route, don't toss those modules (if you haven't already).  After installing mine I resurrected two old SHL2000 Smartlinc modules from my "failure box" that never, ever worked reliably for me....and voila....two "non-working" modules went back into service.

[Brian H]

Some of the Smartlinc X10 modules had a real poor power line receiver design.
The added signal level from the XTB-IIR was probably plenty to overcome the poor receivers in them.

[dave w]

Two cents follows: The XTB-IIR is the silver bullet for almost all X10 home installations, but is a costly solution for small systems. You might think about investing in a XTBM signal/noise meter from JVDE for troubleshooting. Also, if you have NO phase coupling, that is at least part of your problem. Although by no means universal, for many brands of load centers, the top row of breakers will be on one phase and the next row of breakers below, will be on the other phase. You can confirm this by checking a 220V breaker such as stove or water heater. If it spans two rows in vertical thickness you can assume the top breaker is on one phase and next breaker directly below will be on opposite phase. This will repeat to the bottom of the column.  If XTB-IIR is out of the question, then check out an XPCR. I see them at $60 on eBay.

[joe s.]

The XTB-IIR is the silver bullet

Not only that, but using his 220v European transformer as the core, Jeff has recently made a "super duty" version for North America that (I'm makin' this part up) must be just a couple volts short of a laser-lite-show in X10 signal.  Truthfully I can't imagine anyone needing a stronger repeater than his current US model...but hey, maybe Disneyland is thinking about using X10 to power their parade of lights??

[JeffVolp]

The XTB-IIR+ takes advantage of the larger power supply in the 3-phase version.  Rather than distributing that energy into 3 signal bursts each half cycle, it concentrates it all into the zero-crossing signal burst.

I don't recommend it for the average home because it may be too powerful.  Some people have reported nearby dimmers flickering when the standard XTB-IIR transmits.  (There is a mode option to reduce or eliminate that effect.)  The stronger signal from the + version is intended for very large homes or those who have to send signals to outbuildings located hundreds of feet away.

Jeff