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[bkenobi]

I have several incandescent rope lights under cabinets in my kitchen each controlled by a lamp module.  One just length burned out partially, so I'm going to replace it with a similar light.  Since the outlets are horizontal pointing down for a couple of these, the modules look like they will eventually fall out (though they never do).  I am thinking of replacing these two lamp modules with either SR227 outlet modules or possibly Insteon Outlet Linc modules.  I have several of both and they work perfectly with standard incandescent loads and even fluorescent shop lights.  However, does anyone know if they will work correctly with LED rope lights?  I have no experience with LED lighting and I know at some point the incandescent will become hard to find, so I'm thinking I should plan ahead rather than improving the installation to have a problem down the road.

[joe s.]

Believe it on not, my total MIS-APPLICATION of X10 camera supplies powering my under-counter LED strips are still working perfectly fine after nearly two years (max length of LED strip is just 3ft in my case - if you need more, they might not have enough horsepower).  Even though they are clearly under-spec (compared to the wall warts supplied with my LED strips) - they simply continue to work!

I have only seen LED strips that come with a supplied wall wart - so this solution seemed like an "elegant" (albeit flakey) idea to replace them with a X10 addressable wart!

You were a conversational part of my original inquiry at:  http://jvde.us/forum/index.php?topic=111.msg1205#msg1205 - at the time, I was looking for SR227's.  I purchased them for this application - but I've never used them!

[bkenobi]

I remember the thread, but I don't have any x10 cameras so it's not really available to me anyway.  It does seem like x10 wall warts could be useful for some applications but probably not enough for the owners to build a line of them for various voltage/amperage combinations.  I could see using something like that for an Arduino or router or some other device that might lock up and need resetting.  Or, maybe a sprinkler controller if you wanted to turn it off remotely for some reason (rain, winter, ?).  Or, as  you suggested low voltage lights.  But, It's really not all that difficult to install a controlled outlet, so that's most likely what I would opt for in general.

[joe s.]

Understood - its a total mis-application anyway.  But I recall you mentioned that your existing modules might fall out of the "upside down" plug sockets under your counters (but hadn't to date).  Before purchasing your LED "ropes" - make sure the vendor supplied power supplies with the LED's are compatible with that unique upside down configuration.

[bkenobi]

I hadn't thought of that, but I suppose the LED lights might have a wall wart on them.  If so, I may end up with that same problem with gravity as I do with the lamp modules.  Heck, I guess I could solve that issue with either double sided tape or some glue on velcro.  It's a non-issue right now as my local box store claims to carry the same lights I currently have installed.

[Brian H]

It may depend on the LED Rope Strips characteristics.
The SR227 has a small sensing circuit to determine if it is On or Off. It could make some very low LED devices glow when Off.

The OutletLinc specifications indicate it has a Local Control feature. So it also may have some low current on the outlet when Off.
Also Smartlabs is systematically removing X10 support from their present models. The specifications page for the OutletLinc no longer mentions X10 but the full manual still gives details on adding X10 to it.

[bkenobi]

I checked my surplus box and found 2 OutletLinc modules.  I think I'll just leave things alone since they are working though.  It sounds like I could just create new problems if I try to fix anything.

[Brian H]

That sounds like a good way to go.

[dave w]

However, does anyone know if they will work correctly with LED rope lights? 

I have outdoor rope lights that I have used lamp modules and appliance modules on. The rope would be dim in the OFF state on either of the modules. Same will likely happen with the SR277 as Brian also thinks may be the case. Or if you use a rope or pucks that have a wart power supply, the supply noise may prevent the SR277 from turning off (or on). But both of these problems are easily solvable. A filter (XPPF) between the SR277 and the ropes plug will remedy a noisy supply.

I used an incandescent night light to darken my outside rope light. Aesthetically, you may not want a night light hanging out of your SR277. Since you are ok with a lamp module in your current outlet, you could gut an old module and hide a resistor in the hollow module. I know you have a few just like the rest of us X10 old timers.    You would just have to experiment with resistor values to find what resistance darkens the rope. (Actually I have some Christmas LED strings hot glued under a counter for accent lighting and in that application I like the "OFF state glow" because it acts as a night light).  I use 33K 3 watt resistors to keep a ceiling fan and a Mr. coffee from coming back on. I think I got five for three buck off Ebay. Might be a value to start with. $0.02

[toasterking]

I have an LED rope light and also had the problem of it glowing when plugged into an X10 module that is switched off.  I know that this is not the device you asked about, but I was able to modify a PLM01 lamp module to prevent this problem when used with the rope light:  http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=29098.0
The rope light dims properly with the PLM01 and I did not need to use a noise filter or bleeder resistors.