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[bkenobi]

I tested all the components and am compiling something to show what's what.  At a high level, I have 3 questions/concerns.

1) R4 is a 1.5k ohm resistor but when I tested it (installed) it showed 10 ohm.  This could be due to the test finding a lower resistance path, so I'm not overly worried about this.  I may pull this resistor to test it isolated.
2) R3 is a 330k ohm 1/2W resistor and tests to 328k ohm.  However, it took quite a while (~30 seconds) for it to work its way up to the full resistance.  I don't know if that's a problem or not.
3) The schematic shows 8 capacitors but I only count 7 on the controller.  I can't seem to locate C1 which is marked "220p Line Rated".

[Brian H]

1) Your meter is probably turning the E to B junction on and you are reading the 10 Ohm R6

2) 330K R3. The meter has a few paths to capacitors including the 1000uF 25 volt main power supply one. So until the capacitors charge the readings will slowly rise. 328K is well with in tolerance and is part of the zero crossing detector. Used for signal timing.

3) I will see what I can find out. I maybe able to spot it in one of your photos. It may not even be in your unit. C1 is to keep real high frequency noise and RF from getting into it or back out to the power lines as noise.
 

[bkenobi]

This table shows all components, their markings, correct and measured values, whether I isolated them or tested in circuit, and whether it is considered good or not.

Component	Part Number	Correct value	Actual value	Isolated?	Good?
C1	220p Line Rated	220pF			where is this located?
C2	2u2 MY (mylar)	2.2uF	2.25uF	yes	yes
C3	220n MY (mylar)	220nF	214.8nF	yes	yes
C4	100p (100)	10pF	.25nF	no	bad?
C5	1000u 25V		could not measure	yes	replaced
C6	1n5 PP	1.5nF	1.63nF (from memory)	yes	yes
C7	2n2 CD (222)	2.2nF	2.54nF	no	yes
C8	220p CD	220pF	10.81nF	no	bad?
D1	BZX85C18 18V 1W			yes	replaced
D2	1N4002			yes	replaced
D3	1N4148			no	yes
D4	1N4148			no	yes
D5	1N4148			no	yes
D6	zPY68	18V	18.34V when not transmitting (0.591V/0L)	yes	yes
D7	red transmit			no	yes
F1	fuse wire	0	0	no	yes
L1	150u			yes	yes? No way to test
Q1	2SD667			yes	replaced
R1	3k3	3.3k	3.3k	no	yes
R2	22 1/2W	22	24	no	yes
R3	330k 1/2W	330k	329	no	yes? Takes a long time to get up to full resistance
R4	1k5	1.5k	10	no	no?
R5	1M	1M	0.998M	no	yes
R6	10	10	9.9	no	yes
R7	1k5	1.5k	1.483k	no	yes
R8	4k7	4.72k	4.72k	no	yes
R9	3k3	3.3k	3.3k	no	yes

[bkenobi]

I took a couple pictures this morning thinking I might be able to use them for diagnostics.  The component side isn't as clear as I hoped, but I think they are still useful.

[Brian H]

Not sure but check the back side. Near the red LED. It is either some flux or a solder short between two runs. I believe the small adjustable transformer is on the component side where I may have seen what looks like a solder speck.

Your meter may have enough voltage on the test probes to turn the E-B junction On and you are reading R6 when you are trying to read R4 or the possible solder blob on the back is messing things up.

I didn't see the 220P capacitor in the photos. X10 most likely didn't use one in that model. As the RS Unit may not be exactly like the MC460.

[bkenobi]

I used a solder remover so it's possible I got careless when blowing the removed solder out and sprayed the board.  I'll look it over and see if that could be the culprit.  Where on the picture did you see the area of concern?  I'll check everything closely this evening, but might as well double check that area.

[dhouston]

I didn't see the 220P capacitor in the photos. X10 most likely didn't use one in that model.

And its absence would not explain the current problem.

[bkenobi]

I used a magnifying glass and located a few small specs of solder and removed them.  No change.

I pulled R3 and R4 to measure them isolated.  Both check good though R3 still takes a long tome to reach full resistance.

I clipped the legs off Q1 since I hadn't done it before, but since it didn't interfere with anything it wasn't a big deal.

I also checked the original diodes that were replaced first (D1 and D2).  They both tested good, but the one I installed for D2 was a 1N4002 while the original was a 1N4004.  I'm not sure that matters though.  Also, I'm 99% sure they are oriented correctly but suppose one or both could have bseen reversed.  Any thougts on the correct orientation?  I believe the line should be on the side the arrow points in the schematic, right?

[dhouston]

...R3 still takes a long tome to reach full resistance.

That's odd. I'd replace it if I had another on hand.

Any thougts on the correct orientation?  I believe the line should be on the side the arrow points in the schematic, right?

Right.

[Brian H]

1N4002 is only a 100 volt diode. 1N4004 is a 400 volt diode. I would try and find a IN4004 through 1N4007 diode.
http://www.diodes.com/_files/datasheets/ds28002.pdf

I thought you where having issues reading R7 the 1.5K resistor.
R3 330K taking a long time to read correctly. How long? A real long time maybe the meter taking a long time to stabilize or the resistor is defective.
You are not holding the meter probes with your fingers on the resistor leads? Meter maybe reading you skin resistance.

[bkenobi]

Vetco actually sold me one 1N4002 and one 1N4005 by mistake so I can swap the other one in.

I pulled R3 and R4 and measured them with alligator clamps on the probes.  R4 was the one that was reading 10 ohm and it read correctly isolated.  I don't have another 330 ohm 1/2W resistor but could probably find one at some point.  My meter takes 2-3 seconds to read a small resistor and over 10 seconds for these 1/2W ones.

[Brian H]

R3 is 330K not 330 Ohms. Red Red Yellow.
Could be your meter just takes a fairly long time to calculate its readings. If most all of them take awhile for the display to read steady.

[bkenobi]

Correct, a little typo in missing "k".

I found something interesting this afternoon.  I plugged the controller into the XTB-IIR booster port and sent a command. I had my XTBM plugged in at the nearest outlet and saw no PLC commands.  I moved the controller to the same outlet and sent signals.  I saw signals in the range of 0.00-0.03.  If I test at my bench I see 0.17-0.20.  I have no explanation at this point.

[JeffVolp]

This has been revised after thinking about it further.

The XTB-IIR requires about 2Vpp on the X10 Boost input to trigger its high power transmitter.  So the output from your controller was not enough for the XTB-IIR to recognize.

I suggest isolating an ordinary power strip with an XPPF filter to eliminate any possibility of a signal sucker, and then measure the output of your controller when plugged into that isolated power strip.  You can confirm the controller is defective by comparing with another transmitter.

Jeff

[bkenobi]

I'll give that a try!