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Author Topic: Security Device  (Read 11099 times)

Brian H

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #30 on: June 22, 2017, 06:22:23 PM »

The DCR2500 has terminal blocks on it for relay contact outputs.
The X10 PF284 or X10Pro PSC01 Powerflash modules. Have a set of terminal blocks on then and can be triggered by the DCR2500. Using one if the Dry Contact Relay Outputs connected to the Powerflash Input Termainals.
DCR2500 C and NO contacts. Wired to the Powerflash Input Terminals. Set to Input B {dry contacts} and Mode 3 {Send an X10 On when triggered and send an X10 Off when released}.

Though it probably will not trigger your RoboDog. As it sends an X10 Power Line signal and the RoboDog uses an X10 RF command.
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dhouston

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #31 on: June 22, 2017, 06:38:58 PM »

Your suggestions for the setup were on target but this...
Though it probably will not trigger your RoboDog. As it sends an X10 Power Line signal and the RoboDog uses an X10 RF command.
is in error.

From...http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Setting_Up_the_Robodog_Alarm
Quote
ANY X10 controller such as the MC460 Mini Controller, SC503 Maxi Controller, MT522/MT10A Timer, and CM11A/CK11A Computer Interface, etc. can control the RoboDog. The default House code and Unit Code for the SD20A is A1 so A1-ON tells RoboDog to bark, and A1-OFF tells it to stop barking.

See...http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Setting_Up_the_Robodog_Alarm
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Brian H

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #32 on: June 22, 2017, 07:10:03 PM »

My error.  :(
Dave is correct.
If you used a Powerflash triggered by the DCR2500 relay output. It should control the RoboDog.
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Francey

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #33 on: June 22, 2017, 08:40:52 PM »

I just got the courage to take the Dakota Unit apart as it suggests:  CAREFULLY, with a small screw driver.  I closed and opened
it numerous times to overcome the fear of damaging it.

Now, I must make a correction.. After removing Dakota receiver from the wall, where the bottom was out of view... the major part of the bottom edge IS open.  (No need to drill holes)

Exposed to view are the 14 'holes'...(as in the illustration of DCR2500). The first two being what connects the X10Powerflash as shown on the Powerflash illustration above..  You would then poke the designated bare wire directly into it's designated hole.   Is this correct?
Whoo!  What a complicated little piece of work inside!   Frances
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HA Dave

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #34 on: June 22, 2017, 09:59:29 PM »

I just got the courage to take the Dakota Unit apart as it suggests:  CAREFULLY, with a small screw driver.  I closed and opened
it numerous times to overcome the fear of damaging it.

MacGyver just came on TV.... and I thought of YOU. Your on your way to being a real X10'er.
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Brian H

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #35 on: June 23, 2017, 06:10:09 AM »

I just got the courage to take the Dakota Unit apart as it suggests:  CAREFULLY, with a small screw driver.  I closed and opened
it numerous times to overcome the fear of damaging it.

Now, I must make a correction.. After removing Dakota receiver from the wall, where the bottom was out of view... the major part of the bottom edge IS open.  (No need to drill holes)

Exposed to view are the 14 'holes'...(as in the illustration of DCR2500). The first two being what connects the X10Powerflash as shown on the Powerflash illustration above..  You would then poke the designated bare wire directly into it's designated hole.   Is this correct?
Whoo!  What a complicated little piece of work inside!   Frances

The photo in an earlier post. Showed terminal blocks with the dry contact relay connections. That could connect to the Powerflash. Is yours not the same as the photo you posted. If it has the terminal blocks. Why did you take it apart?
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Francey

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #36 on: June 23, 2017, 11:43:34 AM »

When you first receive the Unit you are instructed to take it apart and check the 8 DIP switches in the Receiver to determine that they all match
the Transmitter's 8 Dip Switches.  I was too uptight to take it apart at first, but finally did so last night.  Obviously, all the dip switches were in their proper order,  because the Alert did it's job before I got the courage to open it up & look. (smile)  . 

I just ordered the Power Flash X10 Pro and it will be here in about a week. 
I'll find that #24 wire and be ready for it.  I have GREAT enthusiasm that it WILL WORK GREAT and RoboDog will be my
watchdog for visitors,  from any room of my house.  Your help is wonderful.  Frances 
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dhouston

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #37 on: June 23, 2017, 03:08:48 PM »

Exposed to view are the 14 'holes'...(as in the illustration of DCR2500). The first two being what connects the X10Powerflash as shown on the Powerflash illustration above..  You would then poke the designated bare wire directly into it's designated hole.   Is this correct?

Poke each wire into its designated hole and then rotate the screw to secure the wire. At the Powerflash unit, form the wire into a hook, place it beneath the screw, then tighten the screw.

Below, I've updated the drawing to show the configuration, earlier recommended by Brian.
 
« Last Edit: June 23, 2017, 03:26:53 PM by dhouston »
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dhouston

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #38 on: June 23, 2017, 03:23:52 PM »

I have GREAT enthusiasm that it WILL WORK GREAT and RoboDog will be my watchdog for visitors,  from any room of my house.

There are still some potential troublemakers but we can help you deal with those if the time comes. Things like CFL lights, LED lights, cellphone chargers, some computer power supplies, etc. can interfere with the powerline communications used by X10 (i.e. between the Powerflash and RoboDog).

Also, your household wiring is divided into two subsystems (called phases) and X10 usually has difficulty jumping from one to the other so RoboDog may work in some rooms (or in some outlets within a room) but not others.
« Last Edit: June 23, 2017, 03:42:04 PM by dhouston »
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Brian H

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #39 on: June 23, 2017, 06:17:25 PM »

The Powerflash will send an X10 On when the relay closes and an X10 Off when the relay opens.

I see each relay output has a Jumper J1 to J4. To set it to 1,10,60 Seconds or 10 Minutes of relay activation.

When the X10 On is received by the RoboDog it will start barking. When the X10 Off is received it stops the barking or time out of about 30 seconds. So you may have to set a longer timeout or  it my just gave a small yelp.

I looked at the manual. Now I see if it was real tight you may have had opening issues.
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Francey

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #40 on: July 01, 2017, 12:47:06 PM »

I received the Powerflash Friday and need to know more about the wiring.
I asked at Walmarts and Home Depot and they don't have or know anything about #24 wires.
Both RadioShack stores have gone out of business, unfortunately.
Would you be good enough to describe the wire needed... and where to obtain it. Thanks.  Frances
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Brian H

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #41 on: July 01, 2017, 02:07:09 PM »

#22 would be fine and easier to find.
#20 maybe OK also. Though it starts to get heavier to work with.

I have seen wire for installing your own phone jacks. It is #24 if memory serves me. Could be 2,4 or 6 conductor.

Door Bell and Thermostat wire is #18. Maybe harder to run but if you see some you can figure out if it would be OK. Even local hardware stores have #18 bell and thermostat wire. As would a Home Depot or other home improvement store.

Home Depot is more for electrical wiring for the home. Though #18 wires for bells and thermostats would be carried.

Yes for the second time. Radio Shack has gone Bankrupt and all the stores area now gone. Not sure about Sprint who had taken over some of the Shacks the first time.

Walmart may have #22 speaker wire for the low end speakers.  As may other shops line Best Buys.

If you are into eBay they have many dealers with both #22 and #24 wires.
Electronic distributors would also have a large assortment of wire. Newark, MCM Electronics, Monoprice, Moser to name a few.

They do come in two types. You can get stranded and solid. 300 Volt insulation would be fine. Even lower OK as the sensor is about 12 volts from the PowerFlash.

I believe both ends of your connections are terminal blocks. Stranded would be easier to route but you have to twist the strands together when you screw down the screws.
« Last Edit: July 01, 2017, 02:27:03 PM by Brian H »
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dhouston

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #42 on: July 02, 2017, 07:13:32 AM »

Would you be good enough to describe the wire needed... and where to obtain it.
Any small diameter hookup wire will work. It can be solid or stranded but solid will be easier to work with for this purpose. It's available online although shipping costs may be prohibitive. Almost any of these will do...
https://www.amazon.com/24-gauge-hook-up-wire/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3A24%20gauge%20hook%20up%20wire
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Francey

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #43 on: July 18, 2017, 01:06:02 PM »

I have a length of speaker wire consisting of 2 parts...one silver wire & one copper wire.  I have connected the Powerflash PSC01 as indicated on it's screw positions...silver on the +side and copper on the -side. 
I opened the Dakota Alert Receiver box and am confronted with THREE holes to use:  NO,   COM,   NC .   
Which hole do I insert the +silver wire and which hole the -copper wire?

Neither the Powerflash PSC01 nor the Dakota DCR2500 provide any wiring instructions.

To refresh memory:  I have Dakota Alert2500 Driveway system.  When car runs over hose, Receiver in house Alerts sing.
Powerflash Security PSC01 when connected to Dakota Alert activates X10 Powerhouse Lamp Module, which turns on a lamp, (or ROBODOG, which is  set up like the Lamp Module). 
Thank you for your help.  Frances
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Brian H

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Re: Security Device
« Reply #44 on: July 18, 2017, 01:31:44 PM »

PSC01 + silver to Dakota Alert NO
PSC01 - copper to Dakota Alert COM.
PSC01 Input Type:B. Output Mode:3

Remember the Dakota Alert has jumpers to set how long the relay stays activated after a vehicle detection.
That will determine how long the PSC01 takes to turn the Robo Dog and Lamp Module back Off.
« Last Edit: July 18, 2017, 01:52:52 PM by Brian H »
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