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[warlockWeary]

Been awhile since i have had a problem ..
But I ran into one when I replaced my under-counter lighting to LED.
My WS467 Light switch Will not work with these led lights ;(  ( Strip Led Lights )

I know you can get a light switch thats has a relay like : WS13A or Insteon 2466SW or WS469
But they are kinda spendy    I have seen you can CUT R3 100K 1/2W and R6 330K 1/2 watt resistors this will kill the current ?
But I can not read the Circuit Boards and am having a hard time figuring out what ones to cut ...

Can someone show me the correct ones to cut ? and or show it on a picture ?? Please ?

Also I know to  you can add a resistor of some sort .. but not sure WHERE or HOW to do this ...  Help

Thanks !

[dave w]

There really is no load sensing on a wall switch. If your lights are flickering in the off state, it is because the two wire wall switch draws it's operating current through the load. This current is enough to cause CFLs and LEDs to flicker or blink. The simplest way to stop this is to put a small incandescent bulb in the circuit with the LED strip. I use a 7W nightlight in parallel with the load, which shunts enough current to keep the LEDs from blinking. Since the blinking is caused by the current the WS467 is consuming to operate, I know of no way to stop it without stopping WS467 operation other than adding a neutral connection to the WS467, which is explained at the bottom of this Ed Chung fan control article.

http://www.edcheung.com/automa/nohumkit.htm.
 
Does your WS467 wall box have a neutral in it? Look for multiple white wires nutted together.

[warlockWeary]

I did see one old time X10 user adding a 22K [22,000] Ohm 1 Watt resistor across his load that flickered or glowed dimly.
This was verified with an older LM465 with out Soft Start. Cutting D10 as the mod shows will stop triggering from a local sense,
but the current is still there. Also removing R3 100K 1/2W and R6 330K 1/2 watt resistors will kill the current.

I tried a few varied LED devices after removing R3 and R6 and they seemed to be fine. Though their wattage was way
below the minimum for an LM465 and I may have sensed one flickering when on, but that may have just been my old eyes.

Found this on the net ...
I just do not know what / which resistors are R3 and R6 :\
There are many in the switch  LOL

[Brian H]

What you found is for an LM465 Lamp Module. That uses Neutral and Line inputs to control a lamp on the output.

It does not apply to a WS467 that steals power through the Load and made for incandescent loads. This stealing power keeps LED bulbs doing things like pulsing, glowing all the time or make enough power line problems the WS467 stops responding to X10 commands.

I don't know if the modification to add a Neutral Power connection to the WS467 may make it work with a LED load.
It may or may not.
Also needs a Neutral power connection in the switch box. If you don't have a Neutral and only a switch loop. This would not work.
http://www.laureanno.com/
Use the 'Quick Jump to X-10 Schematics' WS467 to see the modification drawn in.

You mentioned maybe changing to a module with a On Off relay in it. That will also require a Neutral connection in the switch box.

If the new under counter strip LED bulbs use a power supply to run them. Most will not work with a dimmer switch unless specifically rated OK on a dimmer switch.

[warlockWeary]

yea mean the : WS467 ( two wire ) Black and Blue
Yes the lights are not dimmable :/

[Brian H]

The two wire dimmer switches will not work with non dimmable LED loads and probably dimmable ones also.

In the back of the switch box you may find a bundle of Neutral wires. Most new homes have Neutrals in the box. Older homes like mine with a switch loop only don't have the needed Neutrals to work an X10 relay type switch.

Just read you original post. The Insteon 2466SW may or may not accept an X10 address added to it. As X10 support has been dropped in almost all for their presently sold modules. Though that model is an older design power line signal only one. Not the new Dual Band ones.