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[Tuicemen]

I found a local dealer (actually a couple) that carry the ODROIDs along with a few other boards.
Looking over some specs I see the Orange Pi Zero will fit as well though the ODROID has much more power.
I ordered an ODROID C0 and it arrive yesterday. This initially looks like it was made for the newer CM15As.
The whole battery compartment will still need to be removed not just half like the Pi Zero but I believe this board will provide the most options from what I've found for add-ons. The connector pack gives me a few things to play with like the IR sensor for a remote. It does supply a single and double USB port as a choice but initial measurements look like the double port will fit.
Also there is a add-on Serial to USB port ( not in the kit) which would allow a third port if needed.
The SD card slot and EMMC case may need to be opened to access those but I'm hoping I can mount the board so simply sliding the battery cover off will expose them.
This was intended to be a 2018-19 winter project but I'm getting itchy fingers.

[Tuicemen]

So I started to modify a Cm15 case for the ODROID C0  on rainy days. I just can wait.
I only have the battery compartment removed so far as I'm still working out mounting points.
I'm doing this mod a bit slower and it appears if one is to use the SD card over the emmc the board can only be mounted one way.
This only allows for one USB port to be mounted. This isn't a big deal as I planed to wire the second directly to the Cm15 USB port.
I also wasn't a fan of having the USB port on the side of the antenna.
As well going this route will allow (I believe) a larger heat sink if desired.
This mod will be for the newer Cm15A modules that don't have the RF daughter boards however once done I'll see if it is possible to use with the older CM15As
I also ordered a serial to USB addon  board I'll attempt to use with this. once it arrives I'll know for sure if it is usable with this mod . If not it will work with any Pi.
Once completed I post a complete how to (with Pics) on my forum.

[Tuicemen]

While working on my ODROID/CM15A mod I discovered the Pi Zero has USB test solder pads on the back. These are used by several USB addon daughter boards which add up to 4 full sized USB Ports.
This should allow an easy way to do away with the USB cable I currently am using, providing a cleaner look and also free up a USB port. I added links to the mod thread on my site in case some one wishes to do this prior to me getting to it. http://forums.tuicemen.net/index.php?topic=1291.msg8083#msg8083
In any case I will continue to update that thread (with additional pics) once I have that mod addition completed.
 

[Tuicemen]

Rainy day here at the cottage so I embedded my ODROID C0 into a CM15A.
With this mod I soldered the USB port connections of the CM15 to the spare USB connector pins of the ODROID  I soldered a single USB port to the board to allow an external Wi-Fi module since this board has no Wi-Fi.
I'm in the midst of setting up Domoticz on this SBC now. Tests with Mochad have been successful so my soldering was a success.
 It may be some time before I get this mod fully documented with pics but I just had to post my success!
 

[dave w]

WOHOO!!
Please note that a "wohoo" denotes a far greater excitement level than the more sedate "wahoo".

[brobin]

Congrats Tuice!    You get more done on a rainy afternoon than the Willie devs do in a year. 

[Tuicemen]

  I guess now that this winter project is done I'll have more time to dig into the willy and see what I can do with it.
I do want to hard wire my PI Zero which will free up a USB port for maybe a Zwave dongle hook up.

[Tuicemen]

Update:
The Odroid C0 isn't the way to go.(at least for me) I can't get this to stay running anymore then 4 hours and that's if I'm lucky.

I picked up a few more Zero W boards since my original purchase. I played with a few different mounting locations and have found a way to mount a Zero W board in a new Cm15 without removing the battery compartment it also doesn't require cutting or drilling holes in the CM15A case. You simply file out slots where the two halves fit together for the SD card and ports.
If your up to soldering you can solder the cm15 port connections to the test pads of the Zero W. I used a piece of old PC hard drive ribbon cable. I had planned to take snap shots of this but ended up shipping it off to Authinx before I got the snapshots done .

Sadly soldering the Cm15A USB to the test pads of the ZeroW didn't allow the USB port of the Zero to be used for my Zwave stick as I had hoped
I found an add on board for the Zero W which provided 3 full size USB ports and utilizes the ZeroW test pads this will still fit in a newer CM15A with the battery compartment removed. It also allows connection of the CM15 and a Zwave stick with one USB port to spare. I've not tested with all ports in use just with the Cm15 and Zwave stick, the Zero W handles both without any issues.
My plan is to mount this in the Cm15 which the Odroid was in however that case will look like swiss cheese when done, and that Zero is currently handling my Zwave, WeMo, X10 and Alexa

[Noam]

...however that case will look like swiss cheese when done ...

Authinx might be able to send you an empty shell - or you might consider 3D printing one.
I've also heard Bondo can work wonders in situations like this - just use some non-metallic mesh as a base, slather it on, sand it smooth after it dries, and paint it ;-)

[Tuicemen]

Authinx might be able to send you an empty shell - or you might consider 3D printing one.
I've also heard Bondo can work wonders in situations like this - just use some non-metallic mesh as a base, slather it on, sand it smooth after it dries, and paint it ;-)

The last time I asked Authinx for a case they sent me a whole new CM15A.
I have considered doing a patch job as I don't have access to a 3D printer.
I'll see how my case mod goes for the addon board before I try patching holes as some will overlap.
Hot melt glue may also work for this as it comes in several colors.
I also may modify the addon board to reduce the amount of modifications required to the case.

[Noam]

Authinx might be able to send you an empty shell - or you might consider 3D printing one.
I've also heard Bondo can work wonders in situations like this - just use some non-metallic mesh as a base, slather it on, sand it smooth after it dries, and paint it

The last time I asked Authinx for a case they sent me a whole new CM15A.

Well, you could ask for another shell, and if they send you another whole unit, you can just take the shell you need, and put the rest on the shelf for later.

I have considered doing a patch job as I don't have access to a 3D printer.

Neither do I. I have a friend with one, but he doesn't have the time to do the CAD design for the stuff I want him to print. If I find an existing design, he's usually pretty good at printing it for me. Eventually, I'd love to get myself a printer.

I'll see how my case mod goes for the addon board before I try patching holes as some will overlap.
Hot melt glue may also work for this as it comes in several colors.
I also may modify the addon board to reduce the amount of modifications required to the case.

Good luck. You could always add flames or racing stripes to hide the patch job a bit

[Tuicemen]

Well, you could ask for another shell, and if they send you another whole unit, you can just take the shell you need, and put the rest on the shelf for later.

I'll see if they have a returned, damaged or non repairable unit they can send me, I doubt they have empty shells laying arround. I can use the swiss cheese looking shell as a templet.

[Tuicemen]

Well, you could ask for another shell, and if they send you another whole unit, you can just take the shell you need, and put the rest on the shelf for later.

Forgot to mention here, Authinx actually sent me a brand new CM15A which I ended up doing the mod to and shipped it back. I had ment to take some pics but in my haste forgot
I ended up just hotmelt gluing the other holes in the old case and it looks not to bad.

Today I wire another one of my first CM15A mods USB connections internally to the Pi Zero Test pads.

This time while I had the CM15A tore down I took a pic of the circuit board so I could create a wiring diagram for others to follow as well to keep documentation for when I do it next. You don't want to mess up the positive negative wires. Mixing the green and white (D+ and D-) wires won't damage anything it just won't work.
You'll want steady hands and a volt meter just so you can test things.
I provide no guarantee for this so double check every thing as bit to much solder can short things out. So get a good magnifying glass to check connections prior to powering up as well.

[Tuicemen]

I added a DHT 22 temperature/Humidity sensor to the Pi/Cm15 with the USB hat a few weeks back using the GPIO pins.
The files can be found here: http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=31417.msg186490#msg186490
With more info here: http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=31416.msg186483#msg186483
The info displays in HomeGenie for a quick indoor reference even if the values are a bit off.
 Today I added a Pi power button with LED indicator to the front of my moded Cm15 with the USB hat and plan to add one to  my other pi/Cm15 combo at my off grid place once I get back up there. This uses the GPIO pins as well and provides a nice power down option simular to "sudo poweroff" with some code added to the /boot/config.txt file I can also power up
I used info found here https://www.embeddedcomputing.com/technology/open-source/development-kits/raspberry-pi-power-up-and-shutdown-with-a-physical-button
LED goes out when it's safe to pull the power to the pi and lights up when Pi OS has loaded
If your like me and don't have a GPIO header you'll have to do a bit of soldering.
Note: The button location will work for both the old style CM15 board as well as the newer ones
 

[bkenobi]

Where is the DHT located?  Did you mount it inside the case or simply glued/taped to the outside?