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[brobin]

You could try a filter on the TP Link repeater. I assume you mean WiFi Repeater - not HomePlug which also uses powerline carrier but at a different frequency.  I have a Netgear WiFi repeater that hasn't caused any issues.

[mike1]

Hi Brobin

Yes a wifi repeater I have a tplink hate it! And causing me issues. So netgear doesnt interfere? The issue with intermittent issue on my outdoor lights it is led bulbs. Wonder if that's the issue? They are like candelabra style which few companies make them. So which netgear extender are you using?  Thxs again

[brobin]

I'm using an older Netgear WN1000RP extender to get a signal to my Orbit B-Hyve irrigation controller. There's a used one on Amazon right now for ten bucks.
LED bulbs could be your issue. You could test with an incandescent bulb. Some have reported better success with LEDs by using at least one incandescent in the circuit. But if the LEDs are noisy a hash choke would be a good solution.

[mike1]

Hi Brobin

I was thinking of the NETGEAR WiFi Range Extender EX6120? Also you mentioned a choke? Can you school me on this?

Thanks

[brobin]

Hi Brobin

I was thinking of the NETGEAR WiFi Range Extender EX6120? Also you mentioned a choke? Can you school me on this?

Thanks

This article explains it best: http://jvde.us/x10/x10_cfl.pdf
The chokes (aka induction coils) can be purchased here: ebay.to/2VFDTTV

A choke is wired in series between the switched leg of the switch and the load (the wire that goes to the bulbs).  I needed one for an LED pool light.

The EX6120 looks like a good choice.  If your current router is older and due for an upgrade you might want to consider going to a mesh router to provide seamless coverage throughout your home.  I'm using a couple of ASUS AiMesh routers now and eliminated 3 access points with just the one extender needed for the sprinkler system.

[mike1]

Hi Brobin

Thanks for the tips. So here I am again the family room light than I got working mysteriously stopped again. Now the outdoor lamp post went on with the dusk program but remained on, had to manually turn if off. Man what gives? Cant figure this out.  Thxs

[brobin]

Sounds like some load is coming on that is blocking/sucking signals.  One way to test is to turn off one breaker at a time and test to see what circuit has the offending device. It could be a TV, PC, printer, phone charger or LED bulb and then add a filter to that device.

Have you tried locating the PLC01 or the P2 at the same outlet as your old CM15A? 

 X10 signal integrity is a matter of "raising the bridge (signal strength) and/or lowering the water (noise/suckers)" which is why a good phase coupler and amplifier/repeater are keys to success along with a filter or two. 

[mike1]

Hi Brobin

I hear you, no I haven't relocated the Plc to where the old cm15 was since everything started worked after I installed the repeater.  I have pc shutdown, no printer in the house.

I guess process of elimination like you suggested.


Thxs
Mike

[brobin]

I'd start by looking at everything that's plugged into the same circuit as the PLM.  I know it's inconvenient to test the P2/PLM at the CM15a location b/c you don't have an ethernet connection there but if you have a long electrical extension cord you could run it from the CM15a outlet to the P2 location for testing.

[mike1]

Hi Brobin

I hope your doing ok. Need your advice I'm lookin for 65w oar40 led light that will work with my x10 switches,  dimmable etc.

Appreciate your help.


Regards
Mike

[brobin]

 It's hard to recommend a specific brand other than to say it should say "dimmable" on the package. The issue with 2 wire wall switches is that they need a bulb with a filament to complete the circuit.  X10 has a new wall switch module that they designed for dimmable LED bulbs, the XPDI3, that should do the trick.  Also, you may have seen that Jeff Volp recently posted that he has shunts available to adapt switches for LED control.  Also consider that your P2 can control ZigBee LED bulbs such as those from Sylvania and Ikea as long as they're in range of the P2 or have other ZigBee devices to extend the range.

[Brian H]

The XPDI3 needs a Neutral power connection. So if you only have a two wire {Line Load} switch loop with no Neutral in the back of the electrical box. You could be out of luck.

Jeff's LED Shunt sounds like it maybe a good alternative.

[toasterking]

The Leviton HCM06 and HCM10 series switches work with X10 and require only 2 wires (the neutral wire is optional).  They work fine with most dimmable LEDs I've tried -- a wider assortment than the X10 2-wire switches seem to -- but still not all.  They have a programmable option for minimum dim level, which the X10 switches don't, which is useful for LEDs.  They also have a more "natural" feeling paddle switch that distinguishes between top and bottom presses, handles resume dim more elegantly, and has an LED brightness display and night locator.  The only problem is that they are discontinued, so you'll have to look for them on eBay.

EDIT: Since not all dimmable LEDs are the same, you may need Jeff Volp's shunt even if you use one of these Leviton switches.

[Moose]

Sounds like some load is coming on that is blocking/sucking signals.  One way to test is to turn off one breaker at a time and test to see what circuit has the offending device. It could be a TV, PC, printer, phone charger or LED bulb and then add a filter to that device.

 X10 signal integrity is a matter of "raising the bridge (signal strength) and/or lowering the water (noise/suckers)" which is why a good phase coupler and amplifier/repeater are keys to success along with a filter or two.

I have read and reread this thread several times as I have been sorting out issues similar to Mike1's. I have been using the Harmony P2 exclusively while I try to eliminate the noise producers and suckers on my system. I decided to jump in with both feet and replaced my X-coupler/repeater with Jeff's XTB-IIR and added the XTB-ANR Active Noise Reducers. That has helped a lot. My wireless controllers worked now 100% of the time. But the commands through the P2 with the 2412U PLM were very intermittent. I tried moving the various filters that I had available to several possible noise producers, but without much luck.

I ordered a couple of XPF 20A Wired-In Noise Filters from X10 and did a little modification on them so I could plug them in where needed. See the photo for my creation. Note, that I ran a ground wire straight through because most of my UPS's are 3 wire plugs.

[brobin]

Nice job on the plug & socket mod.  Try and locate the PLM close to the electrical panel.  I've only had one problem with X10 signals from the P2's PLM which is located about 40 feet from the panel.  That one problem was quickly solved when I unplugged the wall wart for a Tivo Roamio that was on the same circuit.  Replaced the wall wart and no more problems.  Check to see if you have any wall warts on that circuit and unplug them to eliminate or identify them as problems.  They are notorious for generating noise particularly as they age.  The Tivo one was 7 years old when it turned into a signal blocker.  Others have caused problems right out of the box. 

Just a thought, and if Jeff is reading this he could chime in or you could email him; perhaps you could use a two-prong adapter on the PLM and plug it directly into the Boost Port on the front of the XTB-IIR.  Unless Jeff recommends against that it should solve the problem.