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[adam]

Just installed my WS467 toggle wall
switches and WS12A decorator style wall
switches.  The metal components on the
swtich behind the wall plate get extremely
hot.  Does anyone else have this problem?
Is it safe?  The switches have 500W maximum
capacity and I have a maximum of 360W on
the switch.  

[Brian H]

Regular Incadescent lamps? Other type lamps
may overheat a triac dimming module. The
metal parts of the switch are the heatsink
for the triac and will get warm. Extermely
hot is another thing. If the switches are in
a ganged box with other dimming switches.
Each one has to be derated from the maximum
rating as the heat from each builds up in
the box.

[me too]

A metal switch plate cover helps disapate the
heat, acting like a heat sink.  

[Brian H]

Yes a metal cover plate will help to
disapate the heat. Is it too hot to touch?

[adam]

Yes - the metal parts of the light switches
are too hot to touch.

[marcus]

I am having a similar problem. I installed
some dimmer switches in my living room and
added a bunch of indirect lighting. I
hooked it all up and it worked, but some of
my workers messed with it. Now the switches
work, but get EXTREMELY hot to the touch. I
don't know what the problem is. In total I
have 44 60w bulbs. Is this too much for a
switch to handle?

[GWS]

If you are truly running 44 60Watt bulbs,
then you're pulling 2540 Watts. Five times
the rating of the WS467!!! The rating on
WS467 is 500 Watts.

No wonder its getting so hot. I'm surprised
it hasn't burned out.

This is a major fire hazard.

What you need is
http://www.activehomepro.com/accessories/acc_
wallswitch_ws13a.html for that much wattage,
and even then you'd need to take a few of
the bulbs out of the circuit.

[marcus]

Is that too much for the power supply, or
just the switch. I mean, I have one power
supply that I spliced into two. Then each
end has a dimmer switch that controls 22
bulbs each.

[carmine pacifico]

Marcus

Standard X10 switch can only handle
500Watts maximum; a typical household
circuit is 15A, maximum continuous power
allowed  is 1200Watts per 15A circuit.
Based on your comment it appears you are
using low voltage halogen lamps with a
transformer , if this is the case you can
not use the WS567 with these lamps,
transformer based lamps require a special
dimmer to work.
I suggest you have your installation
checked by a professional electrician,
before you burn the place down.

[Brian H]

Marcus; As mantioned. No low voltage;
flourescent lamps or inductive devices
should be used with a dimming type switch or
module. I believe X10 Pro makes a dimmer for
inductive low voltage lamps, but have no
users feedback on how they work.

[marcus]

I am not using florescent bulbs, I am using
regular light bulbs (i.e. what you would
put in a lamp). The circuit is 20 amps. If
I wire the lights directly to the source, I
have no problems with heat or anything
else. It is only when I add the dimmers
that they heat up. Each dimmer controls 22
lights. I believe I need 2 high power
dimmers.

[murphy]

44 lamps at 60W each is also exceeding the
rating of the 20A breaker.
44 x 60W = 2640W
2640W / 117V = 22.6A

[Brian H]

There are some 1000 Watt Switches made by
Smarthome and I think Leviton. Your setup
sounds like even 2 1000 Watt units will be
stressed. You aren't poping the breaker?
Lucky you.

[marcus]

I haven't ever blown the breaker, but what
it soundls like I should do is this: Power
only 22 bulbs from one power source, and
divide that with 2 switches. Bring power
from another circuit for the other two
lamps, and divide that by two dimmer
switches as well. That would mean that each
dimmer switch I used would control 660
watts. I belive I currently have 600w
dimmers. Do you think pushing 60 additional
watts through them is very dangerous? How
does the overall idea sound of bringing
power from another circuit (breaker)?

[marty]

Okay... I'll bite.  Just 'cause I'm curious...

What on earth are you lighting up with 44
60-watt bulbs?

Inquiring minds want to know. )

Marty