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[johnniki]

Pt I've read about the 'scan power'
modules.  I've used X10 control box &
modules to control lights etc. for over 2
decades, trouble free.  My thought was this,
plug my cameras in the attic into the scan
power module.  Outlets in my attic are
reasonably attainable for me.  Plug the
video/audio from all the cameras into
a 'box' of some sort & have that box fed to
the TV via one set of wires, or wireless.
Then switch the cameras on remotely via the
camera power supply so only the signal from
one at a time would come through to the TV.
My understanding is this camera remote
automatically turns off all cameras except
the one you choose to turn on, so it seems
it should work, & can control up to 16
cameras.  But, it's the device or method of
getting all the cameras fed to the TV that
has me beat.  Plus I'm not sure about the
scan modules working with non X10 cameras,
or practical use of the camera remote.

I don't foresee wanting automatic video
recording or PC viewing, etc. but that
option as a future upgrade might be
interesting.  money is an issue (as is for
everyone!), so I don't want to make stupid
mistakes to try to do something that can't
be expected to work, nor can I afford many
hundreds to do this.

Mainly I'm looking to have a view of what's
going on when the dogs go crazy or something
turns on the automatic lights at night,
etc.  Can someone help with advice as to how
I can accomplish this in a clean way?
Thanks so much,

Niki

[johnniki]

Pt 2
What I'd like to do is add a couple more
cameras so I can switch between them to see
other areas.  I want a clean installation.
I've been figuring how to get the wires down
from the attic for this one camera, but
running multiple wires for multiple cameras
creates a mess (i.e. I don't know a clean
way to do it), especially where it comes
through the wall, I like wall plates & well,
just clean looking.  Then when you get to
the TV, there is only one set of inputs & I
want to be able to switch between the
different cameras via remote of some sort.

I've heard of a multiplexor (?) but my
understanding is it will split the view
between the cameras, or view one, but it is
switched between cameras via switches you
push, so not remote. And the TV is small so
splitting the screen would make the image to
small to be practical. I would still need to
get all sets of wires down & through the
wall to the device rather than locate it in
the attic

[johnniki]

Pt 1
My goal is to set up a few cameras (3 or 4)
that I can view on my TV.  I've experienced
the X10 lack of support already via
unhelpful emails & being referred back to
the web site for FAQ & Specs I'd already
read, but needed help with (as I am
completely inexperienced in this area).
Well, I thought before I give up I'd ask
here & see if some of you smart folks can
steer me!

I have pretty much decided on wired cameras
due to the difficulties many seem to have
with the wireless.  I actually own one wired
camera already, not X10.  it has RCA jacks,
3, one power (plugs into a transformer), one
audio, one video.  It is currently strung
across my ceiling & plugged into the front
of my TV.  Not how I want it to be!  It has
a better angle (92) view than most of the
X10 cameras & 380 TV lines so the resolution
is pretty good which I like.  Had one the
resolution was so poor you couldn't tell
what you were looking at, so I guess the "TV
Lines" is the important thing there.

[goluxgo]

Hi Niki,
You would have to get an audio switcher of
some sort.I have seen switchers for home
entertainment that have 4 inputs and 1
output.I may have seen a Phillips unit like
that in Walmart..not sure.They have an I/R
remote so you would have to place it in eye
view and run your cameras to that point.Also
some audio recievers have multiple inputs
and can switch via remote.Wireless has
drawbacks if you live in urban environments
and can be easily jammed or tampered with.I
live in a rural town and don't have a lot of
interference or sophisticated
criminals.Mainly petty vandalism and black
bear and grizzly bear problems.The 2.4ghz
works fine for me and is a time saver with
detached buildings.
I use a seperate small tv/vcr combo that
works well,as I can set the picture settings
to compliment the cameras.They need more
brightness than regular TV.I also have mine
hooked into my main TV which is really very
handy as you state.I have phoned X10 a
couple of times for help with software and
advice on product choice.They were really
helpful and pleasant.The remarks on this
forum were a real eye opener for me.I don't
believe what I read from any
manufacturer....they all lie by ommission.If
they didn't,they would go broke.....that's
just the way it is nowadays on the
internet.Most DIY products are vastly
understated as far as installation.I can see
why so many people get frustrated and angry
with this product.You really need a bit of
background experience to work with it.
Goluxgo

[goluxgo]

Niki,
Radio shack had a 4 camera switcher for $60
CDN with I/R control.You could put all your
cameras on the same unit code and run the
switcher through a vcr and out to the
TV.That way you could easily record
something suspicious that you may see.Pretty
simple set up that would probably work great
for what you want.
Goluxgo

[johnniki]

Goluxgo,
Thank you, I will check into Radio Shack &
Walmart for the switcher devices.  Our area
has about 1 home every 5-10 acres, so most
interference would come from my own home.
We don't have a wireless network, but do
have cordless phones (which I read could
interfere with wireless cameras too).  I get
funny things like a radio station playing
over my computer speakers occasionally &
such, so although the wireless is what
brought me to X10 in the first place (I
really wanted to get rid of the wire
problem), I've gotten kind of scared off by
the problems so many seem to have.
I know you did wireless, but do you have any
ideas how I'd bring several sets of camera
wires down through the wall (short of just
having a bunch of wires coming out a hole in
the wall!)  I've checked out Home Depot &
another local hardare store, but couldn't
find an easy solution.  I've got outlet
boxes installed & have plates for coax to go
through, but can't figure out how to bring
these RCA jack type wires through,
especially since one of the jacks is a power
cable.  I'll need to have
separate 'transformers' for each camera
too.  The camera I have now all the cables
are together in one until the end, otherwise
I could leave the power part up in the attic.

I got real scared of the X10 stuff after
reading the forum.  But along with what you
said, I've read others also had better luck
with telephone support as opposed to email.
Again, thank you much for taking the time to
offer some suggestions.

Niki

[goluxgo]

I have a 2.4ghz phone that effects the
cameras and visa versa.I don't have cameras
on in the day so it is no big deal.
Hard wire is more hassle but is the best
way to go.I don't know the camera you are
using,but assume it has composite type cable
with an RCA connecter and the power supply
wires siamesed to it.Here are some ideas
that might work.Can you seperate the power
cord from the video like you would seperate
the 2 conductors in a lamp cord?If so,you
could plug the transformers into a power bar
in the attic and run the video cables to the
switcher.Or,bring the wires through the
attic as close to the TV as you can.Plug the
transformers in a power bar.Buy 4-6' Audio
cables and 4-1 inch long male to male Rca
connectors and connect the four new cables
to the existing camera wires at the power
bar.Run those cable extensions down the wall
to the Tv.Or,put the swicher in the attic
and run 1 cable down to the tv.You would
need an I/R extender to operate the switcher
but would be a nice clean install.You seem
like a person who would prefer the last
scenario.Four camera feeds is a lot of crap
to have around the TV.
larry.

[johnniki]

The wire on my camera does not detach.  it
is small, completely round so I dont think
i can split it, but at the end is a molded
plastic section that splits into three
wires with plug ins on the end, two pins
(A/V) & one socket for the Transformer to
plug into.  I haven't purchased the other
cameras yet, but radio shack seems to have
some similar to mine that also have the 380
tv lines & wider angle than the X10 (except
the vanguard that is out of my range).  I
am reading all about the switches you told
me about & downloaded the owners books to
read through & see if I think it will work
or what other questions I come up with.
Bringing 1 set of wires down from the attic
would be my preferred method with the rest
of the hardware staying up there.   I like
the VCR idea, & that would be a simple way
to route the wire, as I already run through
the VCR for the Satelite, so would just use
the alternate input.  Thank you for
helping.  I'll digest this info I'm looking
at now & see what I come up with.

Niki

[johnniki]

Pt 2

The Philips switch box is more basic, has 4
sets of inputs, RCA type & S-Video & RF (is
that coax?).  It has outputs in each of
those types also.  It says it automatically
switches to the input that has a signal.  So
no remote needed to switch it, but would
need to power on & off the different cameras
so only 1 had input at a time.  I could use
the existing unused coax (RF?) lead to bring
the signal to the TV or VCR.  I would also
need to use the X10 scan power module &
camera remote control to control the power
supply to each camera (or maybe  i could
just use the regular applicance modules (I
have a control box already)?  I think the
difference is the scan power module w/camera
remote I think is supposed to turn off all
cameras except the one you turn on
automatically.  it seems simple....

Any thoughts?  Would I have an issue using
scan power module with non X10 cameras.
Would I see a significant signal loss so
would really need the amplifier of the Radio
Shack switch or loss?

What do you think?

Niki

[johnniki]

Pt 1
Ok, I found an inexpensive A/V Switchbox by
Philips, & a "4-in 2-out IR AV Switchbox" @
Radio Shack for a little more.  The Radio
Shack box, operates with a remote control &
has an amplifier & can output to two
devices; I would have to get multiple A/V
wires down inside & through the walls to the
device but could switch between cameras
using the remote  OR  I could place it in
the attic & also purchase a device that
looks like a pyramid that would relay the
remote signal to the attic to switch the
input signal (wonder if this works
reliably).  I would then need to get 1 set
of A/V wires down the wall (wish they had
wall plates for these like they do coax, I'm
going to keep looking).

[goluxgo]

The phillips one sounds great and will be
perfect if it does as it says.It would
eliminate the I/R extender(pyramid).I would
go with the Palm pad or Scan pad(if you have
ninja mounts) and a mini transceiver.Use a
different house code just for the cameras.I
would feed the VCR with the switchers
coaxial out.Most VCRs default to the coax
input when they are turned off,therefore you
will have a signal to your TV when the VCR
is off.Use the coax out on the VCR to the
TV.Run the sat to the VCR with composite
cables(W R Y ).Run the SAT to the tv using
composite or SVHS cables.I assume the SAT
receiver has 2 sets of composite out,a coax
out and SVHS out.That would give a good
picture to your tv and vcr from the SAT,and
a 1 button push to switch to the cameras.
That is all off the top of my head,maybe you
will think up something better.Personally,I
think you will end up with a really bug free
set up that does what YOU want properly with
out all the useless bells and whistles.
Larry.

[johnniki]

Just a followup on my progress.  I have
purchased a Philips Model #PH61153 from
Walmart.  It seems to be exactly what I
wanted.  It has four inputs (multiple input
types on each).  It has one output (coax, s-
video, composite).  It automatically
switches to which ever video input has a
signal, or you can change the mode to be on
whichever video source you want.  It has a
priority established for the intputs so if
more than one has a signal it will default
to a particular one & not just scramble the
signal.  The big surprise, it also has
a 'scan' mode where it will cycle between
the different inputs at three different
speeds (don't have extra cameras yet so
can't say how long each 'scan' is).  It has
a coax in/coax out, that is separate from
the other inputs.  And if all that wasn't
enough, it only cost $25.00.  I finally have
my camera wire run through the attic rather
than through a window, and am now making
choices about what cameras to add for my
other locations, and will purchase X10 scan
power module camera power supplies to cycle
between them.  It seems to be coming
together, thanks for the help!

Niki

[goluxgo]

Good to hear you got it happening.I wish I
had gone the same route as you.You have
control over your system and could even add
a sequential switcher and time lapse
recorder.With microwave and the fact that
the VCR commander requires an RF signal to
operate,no other products will work but X10.
Good thinking on your part,
Larry.

[tom]

i bought (4) ZC15A Pan and tilts bases.
they came with the (4)  CR14A remotes and 4
addressable power supplies.
Also i bought a Tm751 transciever because
tech support said i need this to make it
work. Well they all turn if i have the
TM751 or not.

i have mounted 4 HARD wired cameras on them
and assigned each one a different unit code
and all 4 with the same house code. but
when i try to turn one, all 4 of them turn
at the same time. i talked to your tech
support there and they said that because
the power always stays on the addressable
power supplies after you hit the button
thats why they all turn. they told me i
need to purchase a Cr12A and then i can
control each one indivdualy like i want. So
what i want to know is if i realy need  to
buy this other remote because i already
have the (4) of the CR14A remotes and it
wont shut them off and on indiviually and
this CR12A
will do what i need.
once again these are wired cameras from q-
see on a ninja base.
thanks in advance

[tom]

follow up. i bought the Cr12A like tech
support says and it doesnt do a thing.