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[john s]

Has anyone had success with the Lamp Module Modification to a silent appliance module or universal module by installing the SSR? I tried one and it does not work, nothing happens. It looks like the SSR is not being triggered on. I used this link for the directions: http://www.idobartana.com/hakb/index.htm

[Brian H]

I did Tparent's mods with the Sharp SSR on two modules all 100% OK. Never tried the ones on the site you gave. I did remove the local parts shown in Idobartana's data for the Tparent mod as I didn't want local current to flicker my CFLs.

Hope I don't mistype this remember to remove spaces added by the forum.

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Tparent/HA/default.htm

[Brian H]

John; Are you using the Crydom module given
in the mod information and are you using 120
VAC as the load? I know the author stated
that they had also done things like a
Universal Module. To do someting like that a
differenr Crydom module would be needed.

[john s]

"Are you using the Crydom module given  in
the mod information and are you using 120
VAC as the load?"
Brian H

Yes, I used the Crydom SSR as mentioned and
120 VAC as the load. I checked the spec.
sheet on this SSR and I believe it should
work with this load. Please let me know if
this is not the case. And yes it was with
the standard Lamp Module.

[Brian H]

Will look around but it should work.
Did you double and tripple check your work.
Including removing the local control parts
and got the 22uf cap added across the + and -
control pins on the Crydom?

[john s]

OK, I got this thing to work. I moved the
22 µf cap and the trigger for the SSR like
Tparent described in his procedure and it
worked. So the Cap replaces R5 and the
trigger for the SSR comes from the
resistor/bridge that replaces R10. I think
what I was missing from the first procedure
was the trigger for the SSR.

[Brian H]

I don't believe the Crydom neded the
resistor like Tparent's. If it works that is
great. One of ther two I did was a Black and
Decker FWLR. Is an X10 OEM has a nice set of
dials with knobs no screwdriver needed! Only
difference was it had a Fuse from to the
output for protection. Main PC board other
than the added fuse was the same as an X10
unit.

[Brian H]

If you used the 2.2K resistor with the
Crydom and it is working. I would leave the
resistor in there for more protection of the
driver transistor. Technically the Crydom
has current limiting built in.

[dave w]

To be added to the FWIW file.

I have used Socket Rockets to power wall
warts with success. I had one wall wart buzz
from the triac control. Other than the
buzzing, no ill effects have been noted (no
smoke, fire, sparks, heat, etc.) However,
let it be said transformers do not like
triac control unless the triac is fired at
zero crossing...and I doubt Socket rocket is
so sophisticated. Guess I have been lucky so
far. Sounds like the Crydom mod is easier -
Brian, have you tried both Sharp and Crydom
parts?

Thanks

[Brian H]

I have done just the Sharp Mod with good
results. I have a Socket Rocket running a
CFL. Though I just discovered with my ELK
ESM-1 X10 meter a 1 volt [4 bars] of noise
when it is on. As a refferenc even a 40 watt
light bulb and the Socket Rocket gives me 1
bar on the ESM-1.

[Brian H]

I was reviewing my notes on the mod. I found
that the photo in the idobartana page has
errors. R3 the 100K 1/2W is shown installed;
it is part of the local sensing circuit and
is removed.
C8 .047uf [marked 473] is shown removed. It
is the bypass cap for the microcontroller
chip. It should not be removed.
C4 3.3uf 50V cap shown installed it is part
of the local control circuit and can be
removed. I left mine in to keep the local
sensing pin on the microcontroller
terminated. Chip probably has an internal
pull up so in or out may not make any
difference.

[dave w]

Brian,
I have same meter and get multiple bars
anytime I plug into same outlet as a Lamp
Module at about 50% dim. The four or so bars
of triac noise does not seem to have effect
on the lamp modules ability to respond to
signals.
Thanks for the Ido corrections, I'm going to
try a lamp mod for my "buzzer" wall wart.

[john s]

Thanks for the info. on the Lamp Module Mod.
I was still getting some blinking when off
with CFL's. I removed R3 and put back C8 as
suggested and now it works OK with no CFL
flicker. Does anyone have a link to the
Schematic for the Standard Lamp Module?

[Brian H]

John; Is the link in Ido's page broken? I
think it has a link to the schematic. Will
look and see if I have other places with the
schematic.

[Brian H]

Dave; The noise is most likely not at the
zero crossing where it may effect X10
signals. I riged a scope and a split phase
coupler. One has a 120 volt line core the
other bababa jacks for the scope. Coupler is
an X10 pro one with a real set of tuned
transformers. The triac noise is very
visable but didn't look like it was at zero
crossing.