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[shreyas1]

I just setup my ws13a with some lights in my garage.  It is working fine, but the 14a companion i hooked it to is not functioning at all. 

Setup:

ws13a:
Red (hot) to LINE
White (neutral, 2 wires, one supply and other feed) to NEUTRAL
Yellow (traveller) to Control
Yellow (traveller) to Load

ws14a:

Red (to fixture) to Live
Yellow (traveller from Load) to Live
Yellow (traveller from Control) to switch


Not sure where i'm going wrong...the power has to flow through the 14a for the 3 way to work, so it is definately doing that, but it seems that the 14a is just stuck i one position. 

Any advice???

Is the 14a companion just no good?

Thanks in advance!

Shreyas

[roger1818]

There are several possible configurations for 3-way switches.  With some configurations it is not possible to connect a ws13a.  In which box does the line from the breaker panel come?  You can find more information about connecting switches at: 

Three-Way Switch Circuits

and

More Three-Way and Four-Way Switch Circuits

[shreyas1]

The answer to your question is in my previous post, the wires fro the breaker come into the box that contains the master switch.  The slave switch box only contains 2 traveller wires, and the common that is going to the fixtures.  I think it is interesting how x-10 directs you to a 3rd party website for technical issues.  I read through that after send my problem to the technical dept. at x10.  The site provided little help for me because there are almost no diagrams that show setups with netural wires being used. 

The entire list of what wires are in what box are in the first post of mine.  Please advise me what you think...

thanks!
Shreyas

[roger1818]

That is really strange.  Is it an old house with knob and tube wiring?

Normally all three wires (plus ground) in the slave box go to the same place (either the master box or the fixture).  If as you say the "Red (to fixture)" wire goes directly to the fixture and not back to the master box (en route to the fixture) and the neutral wire goes directly from the master box to the fixture, you are out of luck.

You have three choices:

• Drag a neutral wire from the master box to the slave box.  The electrical code probably wouldn't let you do this as it probably requires that you bring everything you modify up to code.
• Update the wiring to have a piece of 3-wire Lumex between the master box and the slave box and 2-wire between the master box and the fixture.
• Use two transmit only switches (such as Smarthome's 12080I^*, Leviton's HCC10-1SW, X10 Pro's XPT1-W or ACT's (HomePro) TB100) and an in-line module (such as an X10 Pro XPFM, a Leviton 6375 or an ACT (HomePro) RF124) at the fixture with the existing wiring.

^* A cheaper option would be to use a 2876SB instead.  Although it can control a load, you can cap off that wire and just use it as an X10 transmitter.  It is also Insteon compatible, but since you can't get Insteon in-line modules (yet) you won't be able to use that functionality.

[shreyas1]

I got a replacement switch from x10 because after talking to them they said that it may be bad.  Anyways, I tried hooking the switches up like they have on one of thie diagrams
(attached)
It still didn't work...that change i made was to put the "Red to light" directly onto the master switch...but no luck...
I'm not really sure where to go fom here...why isn't it working?

Could there be something wrong with the master switch?  Buy there can't be becasue it turns the lights on and off by sending signals thourgh the slave switch...

Does this make any sense???

Can you just tell me if the diagram is the right setup...if not what is..what wires should go where?  That is basically what I need to clarify...just tell me what goes where and I will match my setup accordingly.

Thanks!
Shreyas

[shreyas1]

Just an idea, is there any way to have the flurocent lights use the regular 3 way switches (toggle) and then have an in-line module inline at the fixture to make them turn on and off with the wireless remotes?  Just an idea...let me know!

Thanks in advance!

Shreyas

[roger1818]

The reason it isn't working is that you are not able to connect them correctly with the wires you have available.  As I said in my previous post, you will have to either drag in new wires or use an in-line module and transmit only switches.

You wouldn't be able to use an in-line module the way you describe since turning the light off with the in-line module would prevent you from turning the light on with the switches and vice versa.  I guess you could connect a Universal Module to a 15A DPDT relay and wire it up like a 4-way switch, but with that configuration you wouldn't know if you need to send an ON or an OFF command to turn the lights on (or off).

[shreyas1]

Roger...

Can i do this...i'm sure that the answer is yes but just want to check...

2 ss13a for lighting control and the XPFM.

This way there are no switches to confuse and just cover the switch box in the wall...

I thin kit should work ok...let me know what you think..

Shreyas

[roger1818]

Can i do this...i'm sure that the answer is yes but just want to check...

2 ss13a for lighting control and the XPFM.

This way there are no switches to confuse and just cover the switch box in the wall...

Shreyas:  That should work as long as the SS13As work OK for you.  Many people have had range issues with them (especially when using a CM15A as a transceiver).  My preference would be to use a wired-in controller (such as X10 Pro's XPTx or SmartHome's KeypadLinc), but the choice is up to you.  I hope this helps.

[roger1818]

I split Pleasanton's question into a new thread called, "Can I hook up my WS13A without using the neutral?"