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[Duck69]

First there is the main breaker, then in my utilities room there's another breaker w/220V coming in then split into 2 circuits that feed the family room (Both rooms used to be the garage), there is also a breaker w/220 going out to into my (new) garage (about 100' away) with 3 110v circuits out and 1 220v circuit  out.
Let me start by saying that I can wire a switch but sure don't want to get into the main panel. Also I can't afford a electrician.
I don't mind messing with the others though as I can just turn those off at the main.
So what would someone advise me to do in order to avoid problems ?
With the garage so far away, how would I get signals to my security console ?
Thanking you in advance for your help.
Jim

[Brian H]

We talking X10 Line Control Signals here?
The Security Console sensors are all RF.
Trying to get X10 signals between the phases or do you feel a distance issue may be in the mix?
Best is closest to the main breaker for repeaters and couplers, but I have my plug in repeater in a dryer outlet. Still not to far to the main box.

[Brian H]

The filters on the electronic stuff sounds like a good move.
Sounds like the main breaker is in a enclosure of it's own. In the first subpanel in the utilities room maybe a good place to add a phase coupler or repeater. Since a coupler just passes the signal at the same level reaching it as well as any noise. Coupler quality also varies. Some like the Smarthome plug in use an AC Rated Capacitor and a inductor to tune it to the X10 signal frequency. While the ACT and X10 Pro Coupler actually use a set of tuned transformers and caps to pass a narrower band of signals
A repeater maybe better; as it will repeat the signals from one phase back to the other phase at full transmit levels. Hard wired in the subpanel would be best but if you have a close 220 volt outlet for a dryer a plug in maybe OK also. To be to code most hard wired ones need a ganged set of 15 amp breakers fo it's own. One exception I have see was one of the ACT models that was fused properly to wire into a existing 220 volt circuit. I have seen reports of the Leviton HCA02 [memory here] having a firestorm problem [constant rebroadcast of signals to the point the repeater ot cm15a had to be unpluged]with a cm15a though I never had one with my Smarthome Plug in one.

[Brian H]

Couple of more web sites with good tutorials on X10 and other Automation stuff. That anyone may want to look at.
http://www.act-solutions.com/uncle.htm
http://www.hometoys.com/articles.htm

[Brian H]

One of the tutorials on the act-solutions site give great details on all things like phase coupling and noise. Good reading for any X10 users. If you have not looked they are a great help.
A coupler at the garage may help; bus since it is at the end of a run; signals maybe weak by then.
Is there any possibility of getting one on the breaker sets where they where split? They are still next to each other somewhere.
I will keep thinking on this for more ways to possibly do it and I am sure others with unique [you can't be the only one with no 220 outlets] situations.

[Brian H]

Security door and window sensors along with the security motion sensors do not use the powerline X10 signals to communicate with the security console. It is a 310 MHz RF transmission from the sensor to the console. You may have problems if the security console is in the main house.
Now if the console has problems flashing and controlling modules in the garage. A coupler repeater may indeed help. You can always do a test with a few modules in varied places of the home and garage and see if you have bad areas. If not save on the repeater, if you have bad areas maybe one would help. Unplugging known noise generators can also be a test for filter needs.

[Brian H]

I can understand all you are saying. Try wrapping some wire around the security consoles antenna and extending it. That may help though a long shot.
10 Grandkids. I am sure they give you much joy.