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[dbuilder]

I bought an AHP, got all the software, macros, etc., registered everything just fine.  Windows XP Home Edition.

I installed outdoor motion sensors (MS16A) and set them to the right code so they would trigger the Remote Chime (SC546A).  I have been able to get them to trigger the chimes if I have them placed in specific outlets in one room in the house (my kitchen) but I don't want them in the kitchen.

I did a little research and found that some indicated that there is a problem with the power phasing in most homes and so I bought a plug-in phase coupler (4816B2 - SIGNALINC PLUG-IN SIGNAL COUPLER 3-WIRE) and plugged it into my dryer outlet.  Dryer still works, X10 - no change anywhere in the house.

I did a little more research and found that the wireless transceiver (TM751-F) has limited range so I bought an "All House Codes X10 Transceiver with External Antenna, bundled with Powerline Interface".  No change. This was supposed to improve the range for the RF signals.

So far, I haven't been able to set this system up in my house to be useful.  Can anyone give me some ideas that might solve this.

So far, all I want to do is to get my multiple outdoor sensors to issue a signal to the remote chime but the chime has to be in my bedroom where I will hear it at night when it's likely to go off, not down in my kitchen on the floor below.  I would like to be able to do this without spending anymore money and without rewiring my house.  Hopefully someone out there is using the X10 system successfully for simple tasks such as this.

The parts I have are noted below.

4816B2 - SIGNALINC PLUG-IN SIGNAL COUPLER 3-WIRE
TM751-F - Transceiver Module
MS16A - Motion Sensor w/variable delay (outdoor grey)
SC546A - Remote Chime
CM15A - ActiveHome Pro Computer Interface and USB cable
V572AB 1 All House Codes X10 Transceiver with External Antenna, bundled with Powerline Interface

[steven r]

...Can anyone give me some ideas that might solve this....

Hmm... It looks like you've done most of the things that would of suggested you try. I suppose you have looked at AHP to see if the signal is being received there.
At this point I'd recommend that you backup and retry a couple things.

• Start by making sure that the HC you have the motion sensor set on is turned off in AHP
• Next unplug all the transceivers except one.
• Then place the transceiver as close as you can to where you have the motion detector mounted and test.
• Then try different places for the chime.
• Try sending a signal to the chime from AHP.
• Also if you any other plug in controller, try signalling the chime from it.

[dbuilder]

I'm not familiar with your term HC.  Please explain what that is.  Thanks.

[Brian H]

House Code. A-P.
UC is sometimes the Unit Code 1-16
An address for a module is a House Code and Unit Code. Like the default is A1
Some commands like All Lights On will turn on all Lamp Modules , not appliance modules; on a house code. Like A All Lights ON will turn on any lamp module or wall switch on the A House Code with any unit 1-16 code. All units off will turn off all modules on the house code in question.

[Tuicemen]

Actualy I think since you have an "All House Codes X10 Transceiver with External Antenna, bundled with Powerline Interface"  ALL house codes in AHPs "hardware configuration" should be set to NOT transcieve you'll have to set them with the specific  box checked.The CM15A is a transciever as well and with out the house codes transcieved disable  you'll have problems.

[steven r]

I'm not familiar with your term HC.  Please explain what that is.  Thanks.

House Code. A-P.
UC is sometimes the Unit Code 1-16...

Thanks Brian. Sometime I assume everyone knows the term. I forget some haven't heard of it and like the spell checker are confused by it.

[dbuilder]

I have tried the steps below that were suggested by steven r.  Assuming that I understood this correctly, I went into the AHP software, Tools, Harware Configuration and set the monitored house code to B (all my devices are set to A) and also selected the "specific" button but did not check any house codes.  Next, I took all the transceivers out except the V572AB (All House Codes X10 Transceiver with External Antenna, bundled with Powerline Interface) which I placed as close to the outdoor sensor as possible.  I tried different places for the chime and get pretty much the same results.  I cannot get the chime to respond to motion even though the history on the AHP shows "send ON (A4)".  I can activate the chime in specific outlets from the AHP but again, these outlets are not the ones I need to have the chime located at.  The chime House Code is set to "A4".

• "Start by making sure that the HC you have the motion sensor set on is turned off in AHP
  Next unplug all the transceivers except one.
  Then place the transceiver as close as you can to where you have the motion detector mounted and test.
  Then try different places for the chime.
  Try sending a signal to the chime from AHP.
  Also if you any other plug in controller, try signalling the chime from it."

I was a little confused by what Tuiceman suggested but did what I think is suggested as described above.  Any other suggestions?

[steven r]

...I was a little confused by what Tuiceman suggested but did what I think is suggested as described above...

He and I were referring to the setting under Hardware Configuration.

• Click on "Tools"
• Then click on "Hardware Configuration"
• Then uncheck your transceiver HC "A" in the lower right and any others if they're not being used.

You can leave your monitored HC on "A".

[dbuilder]

OK, that's what I did.  There were no transceived house codes checked.  I put the monitored house code back on A.  Still limited to specific outlets in the wrong place for the chime.

[steven r]

Ok I'm thinking...

The chime is working some places and not others and you do have a phase coupler already. Right?
It still sounds like a phase problem. I'm a big advocate of phase couplers but try unplugging it for a test.
There could also be too much noise on the line.
Try moving the CM15A box.
Do you have any other plug in controller that you can use to try signaling the chime?

You can make a "poor man's" tester to figure out if the transceiver and the chime are on the same phase.

You'll need a neon tester. They cost about $2 at Walmart or your local hardware store. Make sure it can test up to 220V. You'll also need a long enough extension cord to reach from one outlet to the next. All the extension cords you can buy now will be polarized like your outlet. (If yours isn't, think about cutting it in half, throwing it away and buying a new one.) Your outlet has a short and a long slot. If it's wired correctly the short slot is the hot line and the long slot is the neutral. Basically what you want to do is connect the neon tester with the help of the extension cord, between the 2 hot lines. If both outlets are wired correctly, there should be no light across them if they're on the same phase and a bright glow from 220 volts across 2 on opposing phases.

[Tuicemen]

dbuilder you have done what I was suggesting!
Keep your TM751 out of the mix as it will only cause problems !
Since you have a phase coupler in the mix I would assume that isn't the problem Unless the outlet isn't wired correctly as I'm thinking steven r is hinting at. I'm thinking maybe a noise issue as well. Take note of all electrical devices that are on the same circit as where you want your chime. Slowly disconnect(unplug) each one turning off will not usually work as power is still going to the device. If you can narrow the trouble to one device or out let of devices then you can the move them to another outlet powered from a different circit or get a noise filter to solve that problem.
Another method of finding the noisy device is with a portable fm radio set to a blank station move it from device to device when static is increased thats the problem!

[steven r]

...Another method of finding the noisy device is with a portable fm radio set to a blank station move it from device to device when static is increased thats the problem!

With my neon tester and your portable FM radio maybe we could sell run an exorcism service for X10. 
BTW... I would of guessed that the AM band would find more noise. Why would you hear more noise on the FM band?

[Tuicemen]

You probly would find more noise on AM but the FM the noise would need to be more intence for the FM band to pick it up (may  have something to do with the bandwith) which would make it more likely to be the cause. I've never used this method but have read of others using it with success, as well as the unplugging method !

[Mystyx]

How far away is the outlet to the CM15A?  try estimate the distance the wire would be not strait line....  choose a plugin that you think is really far and ones that are closer to the CM15A. one thing I did was made a map of all my circuits...   see what is on the same circuit as the plug you want the module to work in. noisy appliances can be things like TVs PCs Fridges, washers and mainly any motor driven thing. unplug them and try. motors that are not balanced or not running strong will create more noise then a newly balanced motor.

sounds like a WIRE Distance or Power line Noise (not RF) as the sound module uses powerlines and not RF, if your sensor gets picked up by the CM15A alone and triggers the sound in a closer plug then its only the signal from the CM15A to the Sound module in your room thats the problem. need to check what other items are on that circuit breaker.

granny here likes a million fans running in the summer   some old fans on the same circuits, NOT. They are outa here!!!
My PC just hiccuped this week, USB crashed (one was CM15A and one the printer) hmm whats that smell, damn old fans drawing too much current. when unplugging my printer and rebooting - yay it still works, but what was the smell X10 went wacky but most still works. hmmmm bah!

[KDR]

I have the V572AB and it works great in all directions.. however I had to mount the antenna horizontally. CM15A is in the basement, V572AB on first floor, everything works, 2nd floor and attic. About 150 feet in all directions.

Check to see if you have any hightech gagits plugged in anywhere. I have a game cube plugged into the last outlet on a circuit and any X10 product plugged in just before goes total dead until I unplug the game. Outlets before the second to last work OK.  Power tool chargers, new TV's, power supplies for laptops and video games can kill the X10 signal around nearby outlets.