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[Les Smith]

Anyone know if there's a 220v switch available?  I have a customer who wants to control a water feature at his pool.  The feature operates from a separate 220v pump/motor.

Thanks,

Les

[dave w]

They have 220V modules. Go to the X10 web site and search for "220V".  Try smarthome.com also.

[Ringmaster]

The X-10 Pro part number is "HPS2".  I have one connected to my Pool Motor, and one connected to my Booster Pump; however, I wired a 220VAC contactor between the switches.  In the event the Pool Motor was accidentally turned off, the Booster Pump would also turn off.  The Booster Pump needs the Pool Pump running for cooling purposes.  On-the-job training: I burned out the bearings on my Booster Pump during my training session!

[Les Smith]

Ringmaster,

I don't seem to be able to locate this item on-line.  Suggestions where one might be found?  I live in metro Phoenix.  Also, what was your approx price?

Thanks,

Les

[Dan Lawrence]

The correct X10 Pro part number is XPR2.

It can be found at http://www.x10pro.com/

[TakeTheActive]

I don't seem to be able to locate this item on-line.  Suggestions where one might be found?

X10 -> Automation -> Modules -> Heavy Duty Appliance Modules

Piece of cake!

[Les Smith]

Dan,

Thanks for the input.  Unfortunately, that unit will not work as the pump motor does not plug into any outlet.

The switch has to be hardwired for "line in" and "line out", much like a dual pole toggle switch.

Les

[Dan Lawrence]

Then you are out of lluck using X10, as there are no hard-wired Pro units that do what you want.

[TakeTheActive]

...Unfortunately, that unit will not work as the pump motor does not plug into any outlet.

The switch has to be hardwired for "line in" and "line out", much like a dual pole toggle switch.

I'm just an "Old Tinkerer" and it's late at night (on the East Coast), *BUT* what am I missing here? 

What's the difference between a 220VAC Clothes Drier (or Range) and a 220VAC Pool Pump Motor (or Water Heater)?

Just because it doesn't 'customarily' have a plug doesn't mean that it can't operate through one (Local Building / Electrical Code Regulations aside). Plus, we all know that 220VAC appliances draw 50% of the current of 110VAC appliances (for the same power rating), so the wire gauge shouldn't be a problem.

2 Hots and a Ground (versus 1 Hot, 1 Neutral, 1 Ground for 110VAC).

[Ringmaster]

Go back and check out the HPS2.  This is a hard wired 220V toggle switch that can be operated manually and by X10 control.  Worthington Supply is a source to purchase the switch.  It has 220V "Line-in", and 220V "Line-out". 

I have this on my pool pump, and another one on my Booster Pump.

[Ringmaster]

Change my previous post, to 220V, 2-pole, Line & Load connections.  The incoming "Line" is the hot connection, and the "Load" connects to the 220V Pool Pump.

[phxjon]

If you have a mechanical timer on the pool pump, you could replace it with the X10 hardware if it fits....

Jon