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[TakeTheActive]

Some of us that have added non-DIMMABLE CFLs to our X-10 Networks know about the "flickering" vs "Local Control/Current Sense" problem with Appliance Modules (we already knew NOT to use Lamp Modules and/or Wall Switch Modules! ). I solved my "problem" by performing the two mods listed on Ido's site.

But, other members here talk about getting DIMMABLE CFLs and (possibly ? :rolleyes: ) bypassing the problem. So, I was in Lowes and The Home Depot the other day and I looked at *ALL* the CFLs available - NONE WERE DIMMABLE! Thus my question(s) today...
.

• Who manufactures a DIMMABLE CFL?
• If you bought one, where did you get it? (i.e. What stores sell them?)
• How much more expensive was it than a non-DIMMABLE CFL? (i.e. How much was it? )
• Did it solve all the (previously posted/known) problems? (Does it work with a Lamp Module and/or Wall Switch Module?)

Originally created and posted on another Forum by me on Mar/31/2005 @ 10:10 AM

[Brian H]

My power company had a on-line store that I got a few from. GE 29 Watt about same as a 100 watt Incadescent. Part Number FLE29QBX/DV/827. They did work with an LM465. I will retest, but if memory serves me. In a wall switch situation it did not work, as the two wire switches steal power through the load.
If you want some short tests. Post it and I may try it this weekend.
Also they didn't work with the fancier lamp modules [Smarthome] that have soft start ramp ups.

[steven r]

...I will retest, but if memory serves me. In a wall switch situation it did not work, as the two wire switches steal power through the load....

Just curious... Do you think they would work with a wall switch that has a neutral line connection?

[steven r]

...GE 29 Watt about same as a 100 watt Incadescent. Part Number FLE29QBX/DV/827....

Wow! A quick Google search puts it at $25-30 a bulb! I wonder what the use break even point would be for that investment.

[Brian H]

My Power Company must be getting a break from someone. The GE 29W is $9.95 and a Phillips 23W is $13.00.
The Neutral maybe the key as power does not have to be trickled through the load. I just don't have any three wire dimmers to try, just the plug in LM465s and some Smarthome ones that have a ramp rate that drives them nuts. In my LM465 tests if you went too low it just went out. I believe they also have a shorter projected life. Though 10,000 hours doesn't sound short to me, just a comment in the catalog. Base is larger; also so some fixtures maybe a tight squeeze.

[steven r]

My Power Company must be getting a break from someone. The GE 29W is $9.95...

Ah... The power of volume buying. That sounds more reasonable. I might even be willing to try one on the front porch at that price.

Even though I know they save energy and everything, I've never really cared for the light from fluorescence bulbs.
I read the book "Light, Radiation, and You How to Stay Healthy" by John Ott many years ago. While I'm not quite as picky about having my light balanced as he was in the book, I have come to appreciate the value of a more balanced spectrum of light than that of fluorescence bulbs.

[Brian H]

Oh I think that part of the price is one of the MANY Taxes; here in CT. ; on the power company bill that is for energy saving devices. When the state discontinued [for a time] the tax; the store for CT also closed!
Update I did have a dimming wall switch with three wires. An Icon that has a set ramp rate of .1 second. Patched it into my test rig and tried the Dimmable CFL. It did work. Some observations. When quite dim it flickered. If you started from off and brightened  up [not an X10 module method]. It was off until it popped on. Then could be dimmed down lower or turned on or off.

[phorce1]

You should be able to test it with your 2-wire X10 modules using the cube-tap-and-night-light method to provide an alternate path for the trickle current.

Has anyone modified any two-wire modules by soldering a resistor across the power line? If a 7 watt night light works without lighting up or heating up what size resistor would be required I wonder. (I'm an electrician, not an EE. I seldom need the math and my reference books are packed away.)

[Brian H]

Tried a 7 watt light on a WS12A decorator switch and a dimmable CFL. Even when OFF the 7 watt bulb glowed about 1/2 brightness.
X10 I believe said 40 watts minimum. Also the CFL may have been too noisy for the two wire type switch. Lost control of OFF sometimes and sometime ON was intermittent.

[Bruce2]

Lowe's does carry a 3-way lamp, perhaps that is what is referred to.   I was there yesterday and no truly dimmable ones were there...

[Duck69]

Manufacturs of dimmable CLF:

Luxlite-Primex Industries Ltd.
Xiamen Longstar Lighting Company, Ltd.
Fujian Joinluck Electronic Enterprise Co., Ltd.
Harmony Lighting
Greenlite Lighting Corporation
GE Consumer & Industrial


 Sometimes you can get a better price buying directly from the manufacturs.

I don't know who sells them. Someone else will have to post that info.

[roger1818]

I read on this forum over a year ago that Walmart in the US sold dimmable CFLs for $5.  I don't know if they still sell them or not.

To add to the list of manufacturs of dimmable CFLs:

Globe Electric Company

[Oldtimer]

Has anyone modified any two-wire modules by soldering a resistor across the power line? If a 7 watt night light works without lighting up or heating up what size resistor would be required I wonder. (I'm an electrician, not an EE. I seldom need the math and my reference books are packed away.)

I was thinking about this excellent idea the other day but was going to test it before posting.  My math came up with 220K ohms for the resistor (may be an overly safe value, let me know).  I'd use a one watt if you can get it.  Try it in a test rig first so you can see it explode if it's going to.  After its been on for a while turn off the power and check the resistor to see how hot its gotten.  Finally I'd be careful where you install these so that there's no chance of fire if they do let go. By the way I think it should be installed in the CFL lamp fixture, not the module or house wiring, but I'm sure others will experiment with that.

Please see my new post below about this!

[roger1818]

My math came up with 220K ohms for the resistor (may be an overly safe value, let me know).  I'd use a one watt if you can get it. 

1W wouldn't be enough.  P= V²/ R so you would need about a 65W resistor.  Not feasable and you would be using more electricity than just using an incandecent bulb in the first place.

A better option would be to modify the switch to be a 3-wire switch.  You can see how to do this at http://www.idobartana.com/hakb/modifying_wall_switch.htm#Adding Neutral Wire to enable work with compact fluorescent. 

Warning, you still need to use a dimable CFL after you do this modification.

[Oldtimer]

Roger1818:  I think you misread my post.  Your calculation appears to be based on a 220 ohm resistor.  My post specified a 220K (220,000) ohm resistor which would be about 0.065 watts.

Please see my new post below about this!