[TTA TIP] CM11A Macro Conditionals!!!

Started by TakeTheActive, August 09, 2006, 05:53:05 PM

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TakeTheActive

Are you a loyal, long-time X-10 User; happy with your ActiveHome [Original] CM11A, but (just maybe a teensy bit) jealous of those ActiveHome PRO CM15A folks with their CONDITIONALS. Well, don't give it another thought:

CONDITIONAL LOGIC FOR THE CM11A:


Yep, that's all there is to it folks!  :)



Still need more explanation?  ???


  • Plug an RF Transceiver (RR501 or TM751), set to a UNIQUE HouseCode (I use 'N' for Nighttime) into an Appliance Module, set to ANY HouseCode BUT 'N'
    .
  • Install CONDITIONAL "Trigger" Modules (Battery-Powered Motion Sensors) and set them to HouseCode 'N'
    .
  • LIMITATION: The "Trigger" for your Nighttime Modules must be an RF Transmitter (I use Battery-Powered Motion Sensors).
    [Hey, you *knew* there had to be a 'catch'. ;) ]
    .
  • EXAMPLE: At 1:00 AM, AH turns OFF (0%) all the lights except the hall, which it DIMS to 1% (manual edit of MACRO file with Notepad). It also presets the Dining Room and Kitchen to 1% and turns on the Nighttime Appliance Module, enabling the Nighttime RF Transceiver.

    Now, from 1:00 AM until DAWN (detected by the Photocell in the backyard PR511), whenever someone gets up to 'do something necessary' in the middle of the night, the Nighttime Motion Sensors trigger the Nighttime Macros, and the 3 lights (set to ANY HouseCode BUT 'N') gradually brighten to 40% for 15 minutes and then return to 1%.

[Since I was in the 'picture-taking / upload JPGs' mood today, I thought I add this slightly tongue-in-cheek tip. :) ]
Low Post Count != Low Knowledge - High Post Count != High Knowledge ;)

ADVICE TO X-10 NEWBIES FROM AN X-10 OLD-TIMER

Charles Sullivan

Your picture is a little confusing, but I gather it's just a TM751 or RR501 plugged into an Appliance module with the necessary spacers for clearance.  BTW, there's a little adapter made by Leviton that's _sometimes_ carried at Lowe's which helps with a setup like this - a two-prong plug with a two-prong socket at right angles and with the correct orientation for the second module to hang  in the normal upright position below the first, so you don't need to use a spacer.  (I wish they made something similar for three-prong grounded plugs.)

But there's another addition you can make to your system: Get another TM751 and plug it into the same plugstrip as your setup.  Into this TM751 you plug a large capacitor.  Now when the appliance module in this TM751 is actuated by a remote, the capacitor acts a big signal-sucker on the line and inhibits any X10 signals from being sent or received by the other two modules (or probably anything else on the same branch circuit).  So you then have a master switch.  :-)



Yesterday it worked.
Today it doesn't work.
X10 on Windows is like that.

HEYU - X10 Automation for Linux, Unix, and Mac OS X     http://www.heyu.org

TakeTheActive

Quote from: Charles Sullivan on August 09, 2006, 07:09:51 PM
Your picture is a little confusing, but I gather it's just a TM751 or RR501 plugged into an Appliance module with the necessary spacers for clearance.
???
Quote from: TakeTheActive on August 09, 2006, 05:53:05 PM
---snip---
Still need more explanation?  ???


  • Plug an RF Transceiver (RR501 or TM751), set to a UNIQUE HouseCode (I use 'N' for Nighttime) into an Appliance Module, set to ANY HouseCode BUT 'N'
[/size]
---snip---

Quote from: Charles Sullivan on August 09, 2006, 07:09:51 PM
BTW, there's a little adapter made by Leviton that's _sometimes_ carried at Lowe's which helps with a setup like this - a two-prong plug with a two-prong socket at right angles and with the correct orientation for the second module to hang  in the normal upright position below the first, so you don't need to use a spacer.  (I wish they made something similar for three-prong grounded plugs.)

Sound like a nice item for the "JunkBox"! I try to remember to keep an eye out for it... :)

Quote from: Charles Sullivan on August 09, 2006, 07:09:51 PM
But there's another addition you can make to your system: Get another TM751 and plug it into the same plugstrip as your setup.  Into this TM751 you plug a large capacitor.  Now when the appliance module in this TM751 is actuated by a remote, the capacitor acts a big signal-sucker on the line and inhibits any X10 signals from being sent or received by the other two modules (or probably anything else on the same branch circuit).  So you then have a master switch.  :-)

Remember the 'Helpful::) Poster who recommended SKIPPING the Coupler idea and just making up a Dual-Male Extension Cord and plugging 1 end into each phase?  :o
Low Post Count != Low Knowledge - High Post Count != High Knowledge ;)

ADVICE TO X-10 NEWBIES FROM AN X-10 OLD-TIMER

Charles Sullivan

TTA:
I originally bought one of those Leviton adapters for a convenient place to poke voltmeter prods between a lamp module and lamp, but then realized it'd provide a neat way to gang modules together.

Yes, I understood your description.  But the picture is still confusing.  Like, what are all those wires which are underneath that black spacer?

Yesterday it worked.
Today it doesn't work.
X10 on Windows is like that.

HEYU - X10 Automation for Linux, Unix, and Mac OS X     http://www.heyu.org

TakeTheActive

Quote from: Charles Sullivan on August 09, 2006, 10:12:36 PM
Yes, I understood your description.  But the picture is still confusing.  Like, what are all those wires which are underneath that black spacer?

GREEN = GROUND :)

I guess you're too young to recognize it as a 3-pin to 2-pin adapter - there's a spade lug at the end of the wire to fasten it under the screw holding the cover plate on an 'old-fashioned / antique' 2-pin outlet.
Low Post Count != Low Knowledge - High Post Count != High Knowledge ;)

ADVICE TO X-10 NEWBIES FROM AN X-10 OLD-TIMER

steven r

I was accused of having too much time time on my hand earlier. I pass the hat to you for this creation.  ;D
BVC let's me tell my camera where to go!
:) Murphy is my beta testing pal. He helps me find problems whether I like it or not. :)

Charles Sullivan

TTA:
Well that 2-pin to 3-pin adapter of yours is an antique also.  (I guess I should have expected that. :-) )  Newer ones have just a spade prong on the bottom for the coverplate screw connection.
Yesterday it worked.
Today it doesn't work.
X10 on Windows is like that.

HEYU - X10 Automation for Linux, Unix, and Mac OS X     http://www.heyu.org

TakeTheActive

Quote from: steven r on August 09, 2006, 10:51:46 PM
I was accused of having too much time time on my hand earlier. I pass the hat to you for this creation.  ;D

THIS is the thread that took time...  :o

You can keep your hat - I can't do this EVERYDAY!  :D
Low Post Count != Low Knowledge - High Post Count != High Knowledge ;)

ADVICE TO X-10 NEWBIES FROM AN X-10 OLD-TIMER

TakeTheActive

Quote from: Charles Sullivan on August 09, 2006, 10:54:51 PM
Well that 2-pin to 3-pin adapter of yours is an antique also.  (I guess I should have expected that. :-) ) 

Yeah. And it's made of Bakelite (I think) instead of vinyl. :)

Quote from: Charles Sullivan on August 09, 2006, 10:54:51 PM
Newer ones have just a spade prong on the bottom for the coverplate screw connection.

Really?  I 'think' I saw one, once...  ;)

They're not as STURDY as mine!  8)
Low Post Count != Low Knowledge - High Post Count != High Knowledge ;)

ADVICE TO X-10 NEWBIES FROM AN X-10 OLD-TIMER