Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[TakeTheActive]

Are you a loyal, long-time X-10 User; happy with your ActiveHome [Original] CM11A, but (just maybe a teensy bit) jealous of those ActiveHome PRO CM15A folks with their CONDITIONALS. Well, don't give it another thought:

CONDITIONAL LOGIC FOR THE CM11A:


Yep, that's all there is to it folks! 

Still need more explanation? 

• Plug an RF Transceiver (RR501 or TM751), set to a UNIQUE HouseCode (I use 'N' for Nighttime) into an Appliance Module, set to ANY HouseCode BUT 'N'
  .
• Install CONDITIONAL "Trigger" Modules (Battery-Powered Motion Sensors) and set them to HouseCode 'N'
  .
• LIMITATION: The "Trigger" for your Nighttime Modules must be an RF Transmitter (I use Battery-Powered Motion Sensors).
  [Hey, you *knew* there had to be a 'catch'. ]
  .
• EXAMPLE: At 1:00 AM, AH turns OFF (0%) all the lights except the hall, which it DIMS to 1% (manual edit of MACRO file with Notepad). It also presets the Dining Room and Kitchen to 1% and turns on the Nighttime Appliance Module, enabling the Nighttime RF Transceiver.
  
  Now, from 1:00 AM until DAWN (detected by the Photocell in the backyard PR511), whenever someone gets up to 'do something necessary' in the middle of the night, the Nighttime Motion Sensors trigger the Nighttime Macros, and the 3 lights (set to ANY HouseCode BUT 'N') gradually brighten to 40% for 15 minutes and then return to 1%.
  

[Since I was in the 'picture-taking / upload JPGs' mood today, I thought I add this slightly tongue-in-cheek tip. ]

[Charles Sullivan]

Your picture is a little confusing, but I gather it's just a TM751 or RR501 plugged into an Appliance module with the necessary spacers for clearance.  BTW, there's a little adapter made by Leviton that's _sometimes_ carried at Lowe's which helps with a setup like this - a two-prong plug with a two-prong socket at right angles and with the correct orientation for the second module to hang  in the normal upright position below the first, so you don't need to use a spacer.  (I wish they made something similar for three-prong grounded plugs.)

But there's another addition you can make to your system: Get another TM751 and plug it into the same plugstrip as your setup.  Into this TM751 you plug a large capacitor.  Now when the appliance module in this TM751 is actuated by a remote, the capacitor acts a big signal-sucker on the line and inhibits any X10 signals from being sent or received by the other two modules (or probably anything else on the same branch circuit).  So you then have a master switch.  :-)

[TakeTheActive]

Your picture is a little confusing, but I gather it's just a TM751 or RR501 plugged into an Appliance module with the necessary spacers for clearance.

---snip---
Still need more explanation? 

• Plug an RF Transceiver (RR501 or TM751), set to a UNIQUE HouseCode (I use 'N' for Nighttime) into an Appliance Module, set to ANY HouseCode BUT 'N'
  

[/size]
---snip---

BTW, there's a little adapter made by Leviton that's _sometimes_ carried at Lowe's which helps with a setup like this - a two-prong plug with a two-prong socket at right angles and with the correct orientation for the second module to hang  in the normal upright position below the first, so you don't need to use a spacer.  (I wish they made something similar for three-prong grounded plugs.)

Sound like a nice item for the "JunkBox"! I try to remember to keep an eye out for it...

But there's another addition you can make to your system: Get another TM751 and plug it into the same plugstrip as your setup.  Into this TM751 you plug a large capacitor.  Now when the appliance module in this TM751 is actuated by a remote, the capacitor acts a big signal-sucker on the line and inhibits any X10 signals from being sent or received by the other two modules (or probably anything else on the same branch circuit).  So you then have a master switch.  :-)

Remember the 'Helpful'  Poster who recommended SKIPPING the Coupler idea and just making up a Dual-Male Extension Cord and plugging 1 end into each phase? 

[Charles Sullivan]

TTA:
I originally bought one of those Leviton adapters for a convenient place to poke voltmeter prods between a lamp module and lamp, but then realized it'd provide a neat way to gang modules together.

Yes, I understood your description.  But the picture is still confusing.  Like, what are all those wires which are underneath that black spacer?

[TakeTheActive]

Yes, I understood your description.  But the picture is still confusing.  Like, what are all those wires which are underneath that black spacer?

GREEN = GROUND

I guess you're too young to recognize it as a 3-pin to 2-pin adapter - there's a spade lug at the end of the wire to fasten it under the screw holding the cover plate on an 'old-fashioned / antique' 2-pin outlet.

[steven r]

I was accused of having too much time time on my hand earlier. I pass the hat to you for this creation. 

[Charles Sullivan]

TTA:
Well that 2-pin to 3-pin adapter of yours is an antique also.  (I guess I should have expected that. :-) )  Newer ones have just a spade prong on the bottom for the coverplate screw connection.

[TakeTheActive]

I was accused of having too much time time on my hand earlier. I pass the hat to you for this creation. 

THIS is the thread that took time...  

You can keep your hat - I can't do this EVERYDAY! 

[TakeTheActive]

Well that 2-pin to 3-pin adapter of yours is an antique also.  (I guess I should have expected that. :-) ) 

Yeah. And it's made of Bakelite (I think) instead of vinyl.

Newer ones have just a spade prong on the bottom for the coverplate screw connection.

Really?  I 'think' I saw one, once... 

They're not as STURDY as mine!