Flickering Fluorescent Light

[Brian H]

If it is S. Bloom's schematic it may not be what you have. My Appliance Module did not come close to what the schematic showed so I dew my own. Also there is a mod for the Lamp Modules that get rid of the triac and use a Sharp SSR. I have used that with CFLs and small inductive loads. If you try and dim it all that happens is it goes off when the drive to the SSR goes too low.

[roger1818]

However, I can report that there is no way to avoid a flickering fluorescent when using the AM465 (lamp module) . . .

I assume that when you talk about an AM465 you are actually talking about an LM465?  If so, could you please edit your post to correct this and make it easier to understand for other readers?  The first two letters in model number describe the type of module (i.e. LM = Lamp Module, AM = Appliance Module, MS = Motion Sensor, etc.).  Similarly most modules designed for use in North America end with an A for America.

[Brian H]

You should not be using a Lamp Module with a CFL unless it can be dimmed. Some can. Yes you can disable the sensing current in a Lamp Module but not easy as the Diode in a Appliance Module. I removed all the sensing parts in one I did the SSR change to.

[Duck69]

Please see posts Replys  #22 on: September 08 and Reply #27 on: September 09.

• Re: Flickering Fluorescent Light - Ã,« Reply #22 on: 2006-09-08, 10:12:43 Ã,»
  .
• Re: Flickering Fluorescent Light - Ã,« Reply #27 on: 2006-09-09, 09:45:23 Ã,»
  

I used an appliance module (AM486).

[artk]

I have done nothing to the modules and everything is working fine. The CF's and the MH. I waited a couple of weeks to answer just to make sure. All I know is that when I move and reprogram the  CM15A (change times) it takes at least 24 hours for things to return to normal, or start working correctly again.

I have a coupler in the dryer outlet and a repeater in the garage by the fuse box.
artk

[IsleofMine]

I cut the diode on my am466 (per the instructions of the previous posts) and now the fluorescent light connected no longer flashes when it's set to be off,  however I still have local control at the lamp.   Does this make sense?    If so,  what's the use of the diode then.

Also,  just cause I'm a worry wort,  does cutting the diode create any potential for a hazard with the module now?

[roger1818]

I cut the diode on my am466 (per the instructions of the previous posts) and now the fluorescent light connected no longer flashes when it's set to be off,  however I still have local control at the lamp.   Does this make sense?    If so,  what's the use of the diode then.

The exact reason of why local control still works with CFLs after cutting the diode isn't known, but it is probably because of a small leakage current.  I suspect that local control won't work with heavier loads with the diode cut.

Also,  just cause I'm a worry wort,  does cutting the diode create any potential for a hazard with the module now?

As long as you reassembled the case properly, there aren't any potential hazards as a result of this modification.

[Brian H]

I cut the diode on my am466 (per the instructions of the previous posts) and now the fluorescent light connected no longer flashes when it's set to be off,  however I still have local control at the lamp.   Does this make sense?    If so,  what's the use of the diode then.

Also,  just cause I'm a worry wort,  does cutting the diode create any potential for a hazard with the module now?

Cutting the diode stops the local control current from flickering the CFLs and CFLs turning back on. There is also a small jumper that stops the local control from working even though the current is gone.

No problem with the mods;  as mentioned; as long as it was assembled properly and you know the waranty is void.

[ronald hirsch]

Appliance modules, and the 3-wire switches (requiring a neutral), such as made by Leviton for non lamp loads, all have some trickle current, which is needed to keep the modules operative. The difference is that the "trickle" current does not have to pass through the load. It passes from the hot wire through the module to the neutral. So this current is independent of what the load is, and a load which does not have continuity when it is off, can still be controlled.

There are a wide variety of bulbs, such as various Halogen and fluorecent bulbs whichc have no ciontinuity when off. So, the control module gets no power, and can't run.

There are ways around this when needed. I have friends who have outside lights consisting of numerous fluorescent or halogen bulbs, and theiri X-10 controller stopped working. Replacing one of the bulbs with an incandescent type, solved the problem, as a path was now provided, and full control of all bulbs was restored.