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[Fan of Zappa]

I just received some XPF filters that I ordered to filter my ceiling fan/light fixture. Can these things get any bigger? I am going to have knock out a big chunk of my ceiling just to put it in. It might be easier to install it at the wall switch. We live in a world where things are getting smaller and smaller (including our wallets!) Why can't X10 stuff  follow the trend? Just my $.02.  -Bob

[Brian H]

You picked a 20 amp filter. Made to do a whole branch circuit if needed.
Yes it is very large. As coils heavy enough for 20 amps are not small.

If the load was under 5 amps there is a Leviton 6287 that is quite small and fits in many electrical boxes.

[lviper]

I'll add that I have another ws467 I just noticed will turn on but not off with either the palm pad or through ahp. This switch is wired to a ceiling light with a standard bulb. I don't know when it stopped turning off, but it also works fine manually at the switch.

I just reinstalled 3.313 after wiping out the install and trying 3.296 for a problem I have in another thread, but I never checked this switch when I had 3.296 installed. So I don't know if it is version related. I doubt it is but anything is possible.

I have two other ws467's installed and they are working via ahp and the palm pad just fine. In fact, the other 2 switches are running lights with 5 standard bulbs. The problem switch is only running one bulb.

[Dan Lawrence]

I'll add that I have another ws467 I just noticed will turn on but not off with either the palm pad or through ahp. This switch is wired to a ceiling light with a standard bulb. I don't know when it stopped turning off, but it also works fine manually at the switch.

I just reinstalled 3.313 after wiping out the install and trying 3.296 for a problem I have in another thread, but I never checked this switch when I had 3.296 installed. So I don't know if it is version related. I doubt it is but anything is possible.

I have two other ws467's installed and they are working via ahp and the palm pad just fine. In fact, the other 2 switches are running lights with 5 standard bulbs. The problem switch is only running one bulb.

When you say "switch" I presume you are referring to a standard light switch.  What module are you using?

[dave w]

 

[lviper]

When you say "switch" I presume you are referring to a standard light switch.  What module are you using?

Switch = WS467

[Dan Lawrence]

A WS467 is not a "switch", it is a wall switch MODULE.  A regular wall switch is NOT an X10 module.   BTW, the WS467 comes in 2 "flavors", Soft-Start and non soft-start "old style" modules.  AHP handles each type differently.

[hawk1]

?

[Noam]

A WS467 is not a "switch", it is a wall switch MODULE.  A regular wall switch is NOT an X10 module.   BTW, the WS467 comes in 2 "flavors", Soft-Start and non soft-start "old style" modules.  AHP handles each type differently.

Dan -
I'm pretty sure you knew he was talking about an X-10 wall switch module, and not a "dumb" toggle switch. I don't think anyone on this forum expects a "dumb" toggle switch to respond to X10 commands.

[lviper]

I'm sorry I didn't make my post clear when I used the term switch for a ws467. I know how words can be misunderstood. I just wanted to add that I too have a ws467 that is no longer turning off. It will turn on with either ahp or a palm pad. It just will not turn off from either ahp or a palm pad.

It used to work fine so I don't know what changed. I'll have to try a few things this weekend. Like maybe swapping it out with a known working ws467. I have 2 others in another room that do work so I will swap one of them and see if the good one works where the bad one is and vise versa.

BTW, the ws467 that isn't working has a standard incandescent 60 watt bulb in the ceiling fixture. The 2 ws467's that are working each have 5 60 watt incandescent bulbs. The w467 with the turning off problem will turn off at the wall module manually.

[Noam]

It is certainly possible that the ws467 went bad. That can happen.
However, you might just have other noise, or a marginal signal in that area, and maybe it is harder for the ws467 to "hear" the "off" command than it is to hear the "on" command. They are different commands.

How are you getting the RF signal onto the powerline? Are you using the same CM15A? If so, then there would be no difference between using AHP or a PalmPad, in terms of the PLC signal strength being sent from the CM15A.

If you can move the CM15A to an outlet that is ELECTRICALLY closer to the ws467 (same circuit, would be best, or at least a circuit on the same phase), you can test if it responds better that way.

If you haven't already seen it, I wrote up an explanation of noise and signal suckers a while back.
Here is a link to that post:
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=22998.msg131366#msg131366

[lviper]

It is certainly possible that the ws467 went bad. That can happen.
However, you might just have other noise, or a marginal signal in that area, and maybe it is harder for the ws467 to "hear" the "off" command than it is to hear the "on" command. They are different commands.

How are you getting the RF signal onto the powerline? Are you using the same CM15A? If so, then there would be no difference between using AHP or a PalmPad, in terms of the PLC signal strength being sent from the CM15A.

If you can move the CM15A to an outlet that is ELECTRICALLY closer to the ws467 (same circuit, would be best, or at least a circuit on the same phase), you can test if it responds better that way.

If you haven't already seen it, I wrote up an explanation of noise and signal suckers a while back.
Here is a link to that post:
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=22998.msg131366#msg131366

Yes, I've read that and it is very helpful. I am using a cm15a which is still plugged in at the same spot where it once worked. I guess I can unplug it, move it the the bathroom and see what happens. Would be easier than swapping the modules. I also have a tm751 I can test with. I'll try it this weekend and report back.

I'm actually thinking of replacing the ws467's with the inline pro units (model number escapes me) and just cover the switch plates. Then I'll just use the plug-in mini controllers and the slim wall switches. That way ahp will always know the status of the light.

[Noam]

Yes, I've read that and it is very helpful. I am using a cm15a which is still plugged in at the same spot where it once worked. I guess I can unplug it, move it the the bathroom and see what happens. Would be easier than swapping the modules. I also have a tm751 I can test with. I'll try it this weekend and report back.

Keep an eye on which circuit that outlet is on. PHYSICALLY closer is not the same as ELECTRICALLY closer, and might not give you a true test.

I'm actually thinking of replacing the ws467's with the inline pro units (model number escapes me) and just cover the switch plates. Then I'll just use the plug-in mini controllers and the slim wall switches. That way ahp will always know the status of the light.

A few years ago, I replaced all of my ws467's with Smarthome ToggleLinc switches (I got the Insteon V2 versions). They are a bit pricey at about $45 each, but they send their PLC code when you manually operate them (so when I turn on C2 at the switch, it sends a "C2 On" along the powerline. My CM15A sees that and reports the correct state, and it also turns on the other ToggleLinc I have on C2 (I have two separate switches controlling my outside lights, but both are set to the same code). The newest switches I bought are all "relay" switches (so I can use CFL bulbs in those fixtures), but they do make dimming switches, too. (I have a few of those, too).