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[medvampire]

I moved my CM15A to what appeared but my wiring diagrams to be the other phase and had good control in the areas witch I couldn't reach before. I was able to get across the breakers in this test but who knows. I ordered dryer plug in type phase coupler and I hope it will be here next week. I will post if it works or not after the testing. I tried the dryer trick but I wonder if the stove may work better. The only problem with the stove and dryer is that they are the new electronic control types. I wonder if the digital controles on these appliances my interfere with the dryer phase test. If this coupler doesn't work I may get a hard wire phase and repeater module. I really need to buy a signal tester but I have think of a way to slip it by the wife. The WAF is high right now but you know how it slips the more $$$ you spend.
Thanks
Steve

[steven r]

...I really need to buy a signal tester...

I went for a long time without one but am glad I have one now. There is a company that will lend you one for free. (I think you just cover postage.) Has someone posted the link yet in this topic? The thing is that you'll decide to keep it once you start using it.

[Puck]

[Has someone posted the link yet in this topic? The thing is that you'll decide to keep it once you start using it.

Not a dedicated topic, but Duck69 does mention it here:

Borrow a Signal Meter

[3_jeeps]

Pigs Electronics in Baltimore, MD (www.pigselectronics.com) sells a 0.1 uF 250 VAC Capacitor for $0.99. If you have an electric stove., you can attach it between the main wires in the box the stove is plugged into. it will bridge the phases and not detract from the stove's perfomance at all. If you have a local electronics store, get one there. If that's not what you want, get either the XPCP Passive Coupler or the XPCR Coupler/Repeater which are made specifically to solve this problem.

Good Luck!!  When all your X10 modules can be addresses, timers and macros work the way they are supposed to.

First of all, capacitor ratings are specified in VDC or WVDC (Working Volts DC), not AC.  Secondly,
FWIW, a 250 VDC rating is too small a value in my view.  I would go with a 600 VDC.  I believe the x10 guidelines also state 600 WVDC.
John

[medvampire]

I installed a dryer type coupler and have great results. I did not feel confortable putting a cap in my fuse box no matter the voltage. I have control in in all rooms now but still have a few noise problems. I am gonna order some noise filters when I begin to work in the rooms with problems. I am gonna order a test unit when funds become available.
Steve

[KDR]

Glad to here the coupler worked out and your projects are moving right along medvampire. When it comes time to get your filters I have seen them in 5, 10 and 15 amp models. The 15amp I have on my UPS units also has a small replaceable fuse built into it.

[medvampire]

I have looked around and will pick up a few noise filters next month. I am in the process of doing the dimming mod to all the WS467 wall modules I have. I am having a lot of fun with the X10 stuff. I have found that a little patience and study can solve most problems. I guess I am lucky not to have the problems that seem to plague some here.
Steve

[vhoang]

Just pick up a single outlet surge protector with a RFI rejection/filter at about 40db 100kHz to 20MHz at your neighborhood grocery or appliance store for $3-9 and save a bundle.   I just make sure I have all my electronics (TV, UPS, Radios, everything) plugged into a power strip surge protector with these ratings and they work very well for me and no more noise problems.  The higher the db rejection the better.

[marineau]

I have a manufactured home 2006 model built by Norris homes. I have to install  the pahse coupler in the external box because my internal breaker box is full.

My Breaker Box is full, but I resolved this problem like this:

I moved all the circuit breakers which required to receive X10 signals on the same phase
So, Washing Machine, MicroWave, Heating system, Soulder Machine, Saw, Compressor, Exterior outlet, Frezzing and many other can't receive X10 signal, but all other can ... No needing to use Phase Coupler !

Note that you can use a 120Volt Double Breaker (available to 15A + 15A only) for increase your Breaker Box capacity !
My Breaker Box is made by SquareD ! Maybe that your brand manufacturing manufacture these Double Breaker 120V 15A.

Note that I have 3 Breakers like this, and install them on a Phase side that X10 is necessary !
So These 3 Double Breakers gave me 6 breakers 15A !

So you could remove 2 singles 120V 15A, and install 1 Double Breaker and 1 slot would be ready for receive another breaker 120V
  or
     you could remove 4 singles 120V 15A, and install 2 Doubles Breakers and 2 slot would be ready for receive another breaker 240V

Like this photo, note that a
Breaker 38-40 and 26-28 are 240 Volts (20A and 40A)
Breaker 36 and 32  are a single Breaker 120 Volts 15A
Breaker 34 and 30 are a double Breaker 120 Volts 15A

[Puck]

I moved all the circuit breakers which required to receive X10 signals on the same phase

Just make sure your circuits on any one phase do not exceed the input phase's capacity. The concept of the idea is good... just make sure you do the math first.

[TakeTheActive]

Just make sure your circuits on any one phase do not exceed the input phase's capacity. The concept of the idea is good... just make sure you do the math first.

Aiming for ZERO CURRENT FLOW on the Neutral from the pole?

[Puck]

Just make sure your circuits on any one phase do not exceed the input phase's capacity. The concept of the idea is good... just make sure you do the math first.

Aiming for ZERO CURRENT FLOW on the Neutral from the pole?

Oh if that were true   

Just making sure people don't move to much and exceed the (I believe) 100A/phase residential service.

Hmmm... what if you put all inductive loads on one phase and all capacitive loads on the other... 

[marineau]

I moved all the circuit breakers which required to receive X10 signals on the same phase

Just make sure your circuits on any one phase do not exceed the input phase's capacity. The concept of the idea is good... just make sure you do the math first.

Sure, thank you to inform me.
I have just carried out calculation by omitting those on the 240V since they automatically set out again on the two phases 50/50 Phase1/phase2.
Now All others breaker that I have are 15A
I have 10 Breakers 15A on a phase1, and 11 Breakers 15A on a phase2.

I could turn ON all Light in my house with many appliances in same time, and, with ampere meter, verifiy a load on phase1 and phase2 and compare them !
Do you believe that it is necessary ?

[marineau]

Just making sure people don't move to much and exceed the (I believe) 100A/phase residential service.

Hmmm... what if you put all inductive loads on one phase and all capacitive loads on the other... 

My Main Breaker is 200A, and a Total Breaker if I add all breaker give me this:
315A (120V)
355A (240V)
Total is 315/2 + 355 = 512.5

Is my method of calculation it good ? 

[Puck]

My Main Breaker is 200A, and a Total Breaker if I add all breaker give me this:
315A (120V)
355A (240V)
Total is 315/2 + 355 = 512.5

Is my method of calculation it good ? 

marineau: from what you did, it appears you already mapped out your house wiring. When I mapped out mine, what I found was some breakers did not have much on them and nothing else could be added (i.e. no plugs). For example, on one 15Amp breaker I just have my Range Hood... that's not coming anywhere near 15Amps. Same goes for my furnace blower and my door bell. So there are 3 circuits that will not add up to 45Amps.

So my point is, you can't just add up the currents of the breakers on each phase, but rather look at the limited breakers (like my examples).

I'm not an electrician, but I do believe most homes are 200Amp service (100Amps per Phase). Your 315Amps sound like the total of all your individual breakers. I'm not sure where your 355A (240V) is coming from... I can't see your stove + your dryer adding up to this.