X10 Community Forum
🛡Home Security => Home Security General => Topic started by: jpcool on October 19, 2007, 09:10:43 PM
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Hi, I am wondering if anyone has figured out how to add a much louder siren to the system?
I tried using a macro and some other things but have had no luck. The code "lights on/units off" that the console sends when the alarm is triggered makes it difficult to add an external siren.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks.
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I assume your using a universal module and a transform for the siren.... or the siren transformer plugged into a appliance module. Whichever lets say you give it a House/Unit code of B1.
Say your flashing lights code is "A" ... create a macro triggered by A1 ON (not that the unit code matters just as long as your not already using it).
The "A1" ON macro will turn B1 ON. Macro B1 ON will delay for 4 minutes and then turn B1 OFF.
Should work.... let us know.
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Works as described but when you arm the system the light flashes and therefore turns on the alarm.
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Have you tried these: PowerHorn (http://www.x10.com/security/ph508_s.html)
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The DS7000 doesn't flash ALL the lights when armed does it? Just a single House/unit code? But when it flashes.... it flashes every unit on the house code.
Sorry as I can't test that... I don't own the DS7000. But if your ARM-ed signal UNIT code is 1 the you would change the ON macro trigger to 2
Your suggestion makes sense but the macro does not start when A2 flashes... must be something to do with the lights on/off command. If i simply just turn on A2 then the macro triggers. When the alarm is armed and tripped , the "dummy" module flashes on and off but does not activate the macro to sound the external alarm.
Any other suggestions would be fantastic....
Thanks in advance
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...must be something to do with the lights on/off command.
That's correct; a macro will not trigger with All Lights On or All Units OFF commands even thought their modules will show the current (correct) state.
The only other alternative I can think of with AHP is to get the OnAlert Plug-In. That will allow you to trigger a macro with the activation of a security module.
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I have the on-alert plugin... not sure what it ads to AHP but, i do notice some security "conditions" added to the macro designer... Is that the difference?
How would i structure the macro to sound alarm?
Thanks.
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I have the on-alert plugin... not sure what it ads to AHP but, i do notice some security "conditions" added to the macro designer... Is that the difference?
How would i structure the macro to sound alarm?
Thanks.
Make a dummy module with a macro for turning ON your extra Siren.
Then make a macro for each security sensor to turn that dummy module ON if your system is ARMED. That's the only downfall... you need a bunch of identical macros; one for each possible security trigger. But you do have the means for doing it. :)
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Make a dummy module with a macro for turning ON your extra Siren.
I should add that if you are using a Universal Module (UM) to trigger the extra siren, then you don't need a dummy module because you can call the UM directly with the security macros.
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I am using an appliance module.
Is the reason for the dummy mod to have a trigger in the same house code? since the siren would be in a different house code?
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I am using an appliance module.
Is the reason for the dummy mod to have a trigger in the same house code? since the siren would be in a different house code?
As long as the siren is connected to a real module (like the appliance module) you just need to call that module (X10 address) in the security macro.
Without originally knowing what you had for the extra siren and how you were planning on activating it, a dummy module was the first suggestion to come to mind. Knowing now that it is connected to an appliance module, then just turn that on in the security macros.
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Do at your own risk.
Cut the end off of a 9 volt wall wart (NOT PLUGGED IN) leaving just the wire.
Connect the wire to the contacts on a PF284.
Plug the wall wart into a lamp module set to A2.
Set your DS7000 to A2.
Set the PF284 House/unit code to C1
Set the PF284 to Mode3
Plug the PF284 in
Create a macro triggered by C1 On
Here's what happens...........
The alarm turns on the lamp module (housecode A All Lights ON) which activates your wall wart. The wall wart now sends low voltage to the PF284 which sends out a C1 ON. Your macro is triggered by C1 On. The macro will then turn on appliance module D1 which you have your siren plugged into and then turn it off after some delay.
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Do at your own risk.
Cut the end off of a 9 volt wall wart (NOT PLUGGED IN) leaving just the wire.
Connect the wire to the contacts on a PF284.
Plug the wall wart into a lamp module set to A2.
Set your DS7000 to A2.
Set the PF284 House/unit code to C1
Set the PF284 to Mode3
Plug the PF284 in
Create a macro triggered by C1 On
Here's what happens...........
The alarm turns on the lamp module (housecode A All Lights ON) which activates your wall wart. The wall wart now sends low voltage to the PF284 which sends out a C1 ON. Your macro is triggered by C1 On. The macro will then turn on appliance module D1 which you have your siren plugged into and then turn it off after some delay.
A couple of things to consider:
It's not clear what might happen to the wall wart if the lamp module were to be inadvertently dimmed.
The PF284 has a high enough impedance and many DC wall warts have enough filtering that it can take a minute or more for the PF284 to turn off when the wall wart is powered down. Use an AC wall wart if this would be a problem.
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Make a dummy module with a macro for turning ON your extra Siren.
Then make a macro for each security sensor to turn that dummy module ON if your system is ARMED. That's the only downfall... you need a bunch of identical macros; one for each possible security trigger. But you do have the means for doing it. :)
OK it seems to work...... but my alarm buzzer triggers every once and awhile all on it's own. I suppose this would be an issue with signal interfearence from something.
[Puck edit: fixed quote end placement.]
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OK it seems to work...... but my alarm buzzer triggers every once and awhile all on it's own. I suppose this would be an issue with signal interfearence from something.
It could be a noise issue. Also check all your security macros that are activating the alarm; make sure you don't have any that accidentally have the trigger set to "Sensor Closed", and make sure you have an "Armed State" condition in your security macros to only execute when ARMed.
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have checked and all is ok.
I wonder if it could be triggering the macro when the sensor sends signal to console to let it know its functioning. maybe that signal is triggering the macro.
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I wonder if it could be triggering the macro when the sensor sends signal to console to let it know its functioning. maybe that signal is triggering the macro.
That's why I wanted you to check and make sure none are set to trigger on "Sensor Closed". ;)
If none are, then this hourly check-in signal will not trigger the macros.
Make sure no other X10 modules/macros address is set to the same HC & UC as the siren.
Make sure no motion sensor is set to the same HC & UC-1 as the siren.
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I've been thinking about an external siren... (although to be honest... PARTLY so it can/could be spotted by any potential intruder). I was thinking of turning it ON/OFF by mounting a sound activated switch (http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/elec/k126.htm) near a large powerhorn.
But then I realized... wouldn't it be simpler just to somehow modify a powerhorn or large powerhorn to activate a relay. I (of course) did a quick search.. and found this post:
The larger PH508 Powerhorn has the pc board area for a relay addition and a place in the rear cabinet for a set of output screws. Why X10 doen't have a relay added type only they know. The trick on the triggering the siren is it should only trigger with a set of ON OFFs as some controllers can send an All Lights ON and we don't want to trigger our siren on a single ON..........
Has anyone done anymore with this?
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Dave - I've been looking for the same information too, but so far haven't heard any success stories, so it's on hold. I have an Elk-150RT siren that I would like to use as an alarm, but I am hesitant to try to activate it with the modified Power Horn relay. I even bought some of the parts for a potential relay modification, but chickened out on the following mod.
MSUN2000 on July10, 2006 on the Forum:
"I also found another document to modify the PH508 as relay using different components but sorry I couldn't remember where I got it from (google), but anyway here it is:
############################################################
ALTERNATE VERSION:
===================
One of the great shortcomings of the X-10 wireless security system is the lack of an interface to external devices, like a strobe and/or siren, to alert neighbors of a burglary or other emergency situation. The following modification adds that capability.
When an alarm is activated, the base (receiving) unit wails its siren and sends out alternately, at about one second intervals, the signals ALL LIGHTS ON, ALL UNITS OFF. This has the effect of flashing all lights on the same house code. You can buy a remote, plug-in power siren which has been designed to trigger when it receives 4-5 on-off cycles, alternating its two-tone horn in synch with the ON-OFF signals. However, it is not suitable for outdoor installation.
As noted by others, the power siren circuit board contains space for an optional external relay interface circuit, although units with this option seem never to have been produced. It would provide a low-voltage contact closure (30VAC, 2A max.).
In this note I will describe how to make the modification, based on schematics from X-10 engineering and my own testing. This improves upon earlier recommendations in the X-10 FAQ.
Modification:
Install the following components in their marked location on the circuit board:
R30 470 ohm 2 watts do not allow to touch other components
R31 2.7 K 1/2 watt just fits: do not substitute or leave out
R32 2.7 K 1/4 watt
R33 100 K 1/4 watt
R34 100 K 1/4 watt
R35 150 K 1/4 watt
R36 1 K 1/4 watt
C18 10 uf 16 volts + on board is marked with a diamond
D16 1N4001 1 AMP diode
TR8 TEC9014 (almost any 100ma NPN switching transistor will work)
RL1 5 volt, 72 ma DIP relay, Radio Shack #275-243
Remove R8 (or just clip the leads). There may be a resistor in parallel with R8, remove it also. This was used to keep the unregulated and unloaded + supply from floating up too high, and is now taken care of by R31.
Activated (and unmodified), the unit consumes about 70ma, powered on the - side by a 100ma regulator. The relay modification consumes an additional 70 ma, over-taxing the power supply and regulator. Even though it will still work for a brief time when activated, you risk having the regulator shut-down or the transformer overheat. To get reliable operation within safe-area limits, change the wiring to the piezo elements. The unit comes from the factory in which all four elements are wired in parallel. Change the wiring so that they are in a series-parallel configuration, reducing their current drain from 50ma to 12.5ma, and reducing their total sound level from 105db to 99db.
Code:
--| |-- --| |--
__/ \__/ \__ (piezo element wiring change)
\ / \ /
--| |-- --| |--
You should maintain consistent polarity when rewiring the elements, and if you are clever, you can do it by removing one brown wire at the top, switch the polarity of the other brown wire at the top, and use the wire you removed to relocate and extend the blue wire to the opposite side (cover the exposed connection). Since you are going to hook up an external siren presumably, the loss of indoor volume should not pose a problem (I think it's too loud anyway).
Finally, you need to install screw terminals in the slots provided. I used terminals taken from an X-10 door/window sensor in which I permanently soldered the wires connecting to the magnet. Before installing them, you must break off the side tabs which are on top and next to the screw, otherwise the rear cover of the case won't fit. They don't quite stick up as high as I'd like, so if anyone has a better source of screw terminals I'd like to know. Now, remove the adhesive cover plate on the rear cover, and write in red marker next to the terminals "30 volts, 2 amp max."
############################################################
So from the docs it looks like a safer mod but it'd be interesting if someone can verify this"
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Dave - I've been looking for the same information too, but so far haven't heard any success stories, so it's on hold. I have an Elk-150RT siren that I would like to use as an alarm, but I am hesitant to try to activate it with the modified Power Horn relay. I even bought some of the parts for a potential relay modification, but chickened out on the following mod.
Gee... I look at that mod and think.... I wonder if I can put the large powerhorn in some sort of weather-proof case.
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I was going to do that but I wanted something louder. As loud as the Powerhorn is indoors, it's nothing compared with the Elk outside.
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Ok... this has my attention. I've done some testing and found that if I put a Chime (SC546A) (http://www.x10.com/security/sc546a_s.html) (set to ANY H/U) in a (adapted) SocketRocket (http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=13945.msg80163#msg80163)... with the SocketRocket set to the DS7000's House Code... it will chime when lights turn (flash) ON.
So I got to wondering.... could a ordinary SocketRocket and a chime be made to trigger an exterior siren?
I disassembled a chime and clipped the little wires that go to the little speaker(?) device.
I then cut a little groove in the Chimes case and re-assembled the chime, with the little wires feeding to the outside of the case. I setup my little meter... but got no readings. I am not real good at this stuff, but I couldn't get ANY voltage reading. Interestingly... I did hear a very faint chime sound. So I set my meter as a continuity tester.... and sure enough that sounded the closed circut buzzer.
I am not sure what I have here... is this an audio signal? Could I use this to close a very low-voltage relay? Anyone out there have any ideas?
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I connected the little leads that attached to what appears to be the "speaker" inside the chime.... to an actual speaker. And it chimes just like the chime did.