X10 Community Forum
🖥️ActiveHome Pro => ActiveHome Pro General => Help & Troubleshooting => Topic started by: lorcott on February 01, 2011, 04:15:41 PM
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Can anyone help me solve this dillema???
I have a three way wall switch that works well manually (by pushing wall switch). Via ActiveHome, I have no problem turning the light on but I cannot turn off the light unless I do it manually by pushing the switch on the wall. I have an X-10 Signal meter and the CM15A is transmitting during the OFF command but with no result.
Thoughts or ideas WELCOME!!!
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More info needed. Version of AHP and any plug-ins. Are your modules properly installed in AHP?
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HP 3.305 with CM15A. MyHouse and SmartMacros plugged in. Deleted iWatchout until they fix it (It crashes newer versions of AHP. Everything else seems to be working ok. Just can't force OFF to that module.
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HP 3.305 with CM15A. MyHouse and SmartMacros plugged in. Deleted iWatchout until they fix it (It crashes newer versions of AHP. Everything else seems to be working ok. Just can't force OFF to that module.
That's why you have problems. First, back up all .ahx files. You need to uninstall AHP (use the Add-Remove option in Control Panel to remove EVERYTHING) once the uninstall is finished you should use Windows Explorer to delete any X10 created folders that didn't get removed. Then you reinstall AHP and the plug-ins you want. BTW, in the reinstall you should install the plug-ins first, then AHP.
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well....I uninstalled EVERYTHING and then reinstalled ONLY the AHP without any plug ins.
Same problem exists so it has nothing to do with the plug ins. Again, as I mentioned earlier, my X10 monitor shows a signal being sent when OFF is selected, but the switch doesn't seem to recognize it.
s.
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Are the switches new enough to be soft start?
AHP 3.305 now has a choice of soft start and older type modules.
The Lamp Module list is the soft start and there is a list for older type.
You may want to verify you have the correct type defined.
Also if you updated from an older version where you had to call soft start devices a LM14A. That could be a factor also.
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NO GO!!! The switch is probably 5+ years old, but just for S&G, I tried a soft start....no difference!
:(
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OK on the older type switches.
Are the switches dimmer types and not the ones with a relay in them?
What type of load is on the switches?
We have seen On but no Off. When the signal is marginal and when the switch is On the load lowers the signal enough to be missed or is making power line noise and again the Off is missed.
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it is a dimmer type. It used to work just fine, but now it doesn't. Can't think what could be different.
I'll try moving the CM15A.
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it is a dimmer type. It used to work just fine, but now it doesn't. Can't think what could be different.
I'll try moving the CM15A.
It COULD be a failing wall switch. I've seen that happen.
What type of load is on the switch?
Has anything else changed in the house that might be causing noise on the line?
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Nothing's changed. Its 2 60 watt bulbs in a ceiling lamp. I can turn it off from the wall switch.
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Anything in the house change? Even if the controlled loads are the same.
New TV, Cell Phone or something electronic moved?
Could be a failing switch as Noam mentioned.
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I'm going to try replacing the switches...any recommendations for a three way switch with dim capability?
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which is best, most reliable three way for X10 and CM15A and AHP
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What you already have. It's the Product Name: 3-Way Wall Switch Module - WS4777
Description: For control of any light that is operated by two or more switches. Upgrades your existing standard wall switches.
Details: For remote and local X10 control of two or more switches that operate the same light, upgrade your existing switches with the 3-Way Wall Switch Set. Each light requires a master switch, plus one slave switch for each of the additional control points of the same light. Push button ON/OFF control of incandescent lights up to 500W. Responds to ON/OFF, DIM/BRIGHT, and ALL LIGHTS ON/ALL UNITS OFF by X10 signal. Features: Rated at 500 watts (incandescent). Dimmable through X10 controllers.
Since yours is five years old, unless the main switch has somehow failed, it should work. Since you have 3.305 look in the old module section and see if the WS4777 is still there. If it is, replace that with the module you how have. 3.305 is known for not working well with .ahx files from earlier versions.
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...3.305 is known for not working well with .ahx files from earlier versions.
I really haven't had any issues using my existing AHX files with 3.305.
I DID have to re-define my non-SoftStart modules as "Old Lamp non-SoftStart" modules, but once I did that everything was fine.
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I have had numerous controls that would turn on power remotely, but would not turn it off. That includes wall switches. I tried to isolate noise, but nothing worked. I installed XPCR System coupler repeater, and everything works fine. The XPCR fits in the circuit breaker panel, with a connection to neutral, a red wire to the closest breaker to the main breaker, and the next black lead on the XPCR connected to next circuit breaker powered from a different power leg. The XPCR can be used for 3-phase power, but most homes have split 240V power, achieving 120V between each leg and neutral, therefore I cut off the other black wire on the XPCR. My circuit breaker panel had the top 2 (15A) breakers connected to the same leg, and the 3rd breaker connected to a different leg. This was the best $18.00 I ever spent. If there is a crossover of signals between different legs and a coupler is not used, the signal goes all the way out to the power pole transformer and back to send signal to the X10 device. Attenuation and noise pickup are inevitable, and hence X10 functionality is lost. If you have a intermittent X10 response to devices both ON and OFF, inclusion of XPCR may be worth a try.
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I have had numerous controls that would turn on power remotely, but would not turn it off. That includes wall switches. I tried to isolate noise, but nothing worked. I installed XPCR System coupler repeater, and everything works fine. The XPCR fits in the circuit breaker panel, with a connection to neutral, a red wire to the closest breaker to the main breaker, and the next black lead on the XPCR connected to next circuit breaker powered from a different power leg. The XPCR can be used for 3-phase power, but most homes have split 240V power, achieving 120V between each leg and neutral, therefore I cut off the other black wire on the XPCR. My circuit breaker panel had the top 2 (15A) breakers connected to the same leg, and the 3rd breaker connected to a different leg. This was the best $18.00 I ever spent. If there is a crossover of signals between different legs and a coupler is not used, the signal goes all the way out to the power pole transformer and back to send signal to the X10 device. Attenuation and noise pickup are inevitable, and hence X10 functionality is lost. If you have a intermittent X10 response to devices both ON and OFF, inclusion of XPCR may be worth a try.
For safety, any hard-wired coupler you use should really be mounted in a separate box (not inside the breaker box), and wired up to a dedicated pair of breakers.
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I believe it is also against the electrical code to mount any device like a XPCR inside the electrical panel.