X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => Troubleshooting Automation Problems => Topic started by: BlueScreenOfTOM on February 17, 2013, 10:22:02 PM
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Hi all,
When I moved into my house, all of the sockets attached to light switches were configured so both the top and bottom outlet worked on the switch. This annoyed me, so I reconfigured several of them so that only one of the two sockets is switched, and the other is always-on. When I did this, something weird happened... it seems all the rest of the sockets in the room stopped responding to X10 commands. I believe that prior to my modifications, all the outlets in the room worked fine with X10. I'm guessing the switched outlet was the first in the series, but I can't say for sure.
Anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions to make it come back? I can switch the socket back, but I'd rather not...
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When you rewired the outlets.
Did you maybe get the feed from a different breaker. That maybe on the opposite phase of the homes wiring or may have X10 noise makers and signal suckers?
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Nah, I didn't do anything fancy when I required the outlets. I'm using the same wires coming into the box that were already there, I just added an extra wire between the extra capped twisted pair and the socket. Like this, I think: http://electrical-systems-lighting.knoji.com/how-to-wire-a-switched-outlet-half-hot-outlet/ (http://electrical-systems-lighting.knoji.com/how-to-wire-a-switched-outlet-half-hot-outlet/)
Anyway, I guess I was wrong about the reasoning here. I did a test when I got home today that I should have done prior to making this post. I unplugged everything that I thought might be on the same circuit as the outlet I'm trying to use with X10, then tried the X10 device, and it worked. I then started plugging stuff back in and I found that if I plug in literally anything in my office, it stops working. So I guess either all the stuff in my office is noisy, or the line on that circuit is already right on the edge of having too much noise. At any rate, there isn't much I can do, because I have 4 surge protectors/power-strips in my office, and I can't afford line conditioners for each of them, so I guess I'll just have to deal with having no X10 in the spot where I wanted it. Unless you guys have some other ideas ;)
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It could be the surge protectors are acting as signal suckers. Line conditioners/surge protector strips
will can act as signal suckers. Most simple surge strips will not. An easy test is to plug in the surge protectors without any loads and see if X10 is dead again. If so, the problem are the surge strips loading down or stopping the X10 signal. Next begin pluggin in the office equipment one at a time and see if you can isolate to one noise source. BTW don't plug a CM15A in a surge strip. Plain jane outlet strips are fine but many "surge protectectors" also have a cap filter across the line which attenuates the X10 signal.
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ACT makes a 15 amp filter AF-120 and JV Engineering has XTBF-10 10 amp and XTB-F15 15 amp filter.
You could try on the office equipement.
http://jvde.us/xtb/XTB-F10_description.htm
http://www.act-remote.com/PCC/PCCSpecs/Af120si_spec.PDF
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ACT makes a 15 amp filter AF-120 and JV Engineering has XTBF-10 10 amp and XTB-F15 15 amp filter.
You could try on the office equipement.
http://jvde.us/xtb/XTB-F10_description.htm
http://www.act-remote.com/PCC/PCCSpecs/Af120si_spec.PDF
I've been using the FilterLinc ones from SmartHome for a number of years.
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Watch ebay for FilterLinc modules. I picked up a number of these for ~$10 each rather than the $30 Smarthome price tag. Knowing how many I needed, I wasn't about to buy new modules.
If you go that route, be aware that "untested" could mean the fuse is blown. Of the 8 or so that I bought, 2 had blown fuses. I was able to fix both and they've been working great. The fix is pretty easy, but the fuse is not something you can likely buy locally.
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Along the same lines, watch out for deals from Smarthome - they have them from time to time.
I bought my last batch of Insteon switches through Amazon. The price was the same as Smarthome's, but I got free Super Saver shipping from Amazon.
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The FilterLinc originally was made in a ten and five amp version.
New ones are only made in ten amps now but if you use eBay for used ones. They could be the five amp version.
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Watch ebay for FilterLinc modules. I picked up a number of these for ~$10 each rather than the $30 Smarthome price tag.
That's a deal! My spreadsheet has the components for the XTB-F10 at $25.20. Just the plastic case is almost $5.
Jeff
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I have a few more locations in my house where I noticed X10 signals weren't reaching, and I repeated my unplugging test and found that the problem almost always links back to surge protectors and/or CFL bulbs. Unfortunately I have a ton of stuff to plug in, and not enough plugs to plug them into, so this problem will probably just get worse.
Rather than buy filters for anywhere, can you guys suggest any non-signal-sucking surge protectors? Any particular brand/model combo that seems to be less of an issue? I understand the power strips that don't have surge protection are typically not an issue, but there are some places where I do need the protection (TVs, PCs, etc) and I'd rather avoid the filter if possible... assuming, of course, that the TV/PC doesn't become a signal-sucker itself...
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Lots of surge protectors now include a "noise filter" that is apparently a capacitor across the power to neutral. That's not good as I understand. If you just need more outlets and surge protection isn't a concern, you can get straight splitters that shouldn't cause issues.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-6-Outlet-In-Wall-Adapter/16932150
This one is not necessarily what you would want, just an example. This is simply a male plug with 3 female plugs that simply split out the power, neutral, and ground to each plug.
I should note though that this is only a solution if nothing you plug in needs to be filtered. What I did was to find what components needed filtering and then used power strips plugged into filters whenever practical in order to cut down cost.
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FWIW
A "flame thrower" repeater (the XTBIIR from JV Digital Engineering) may increase your X10 signal strengh to the point it can over come noise levels and suckers. I had the ACT234 which was a high output coupler/repeater but decided to try the XTBIIR in lue of buying more filters.. The XTBIIR improved X10 command reliability without the need of more filters. Currently, I only need filters on a nasty microwave and some cordless phone chargers. I have a ton of "switchers" around the house. $0.02.
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Thanks, I may try that. I also see that there's a 220v plug-in phase coupler that I'm assuming plugs into my dryer socket. Do these work well? I'm wondering if that also may be a reason for the weak signals on the office circuit.
What's the disadvantage to phase coupling? Any chance it will damage anything? Why do they bother splitting phases anyway?
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If you are looking at the Smarthome Dryer Outlet devices.
There where two basic types.
4816 series is a simple LC Tuned coupler from line to line. No repeating functions. Just coupled what signal and noise level was on one phase to the other phase. How well it worked depended on things like signal level and noise at the Dryer Outlet.
4826 series is a coupler repeater. Retransmits commands on one phase to the other phase. I don't remember how well mine worked.
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Ah, I only saw the 4816... I'd rather have the 4826 though. Unfortunately I can't find any for sale anywhere. Guess I'll need to put a watch query on eBay.
Speaking of eBay, I see a couple of FilterLincs out there... a pair of 5A ones and a 10A one. Unfortunately the auctions don't end for a week, and the prices seem a bit high ($20-$30 range). Looks like Smarthome is still selling the 1626-10 via Amazon with FSSS for $30. I might just bite the bullet and go with that.
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So you know what to look for.
There are two 4826 models.
4826A SignaLinc Repeater - 4 Prongs
4826B SignaLinc Repeater - 3 Prongs
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My experience was that adding the XTB-IIR and a few filters solved my PLC problems for all but 1 module. I still have some noise generated by my dryer control board and my furnace control board. But, with the XTB-IIR and those other issues sorted by filters, these last 2 biggies were not enough to warrant the trouble fixing them. If there were an easy way to filter them without voiding warranties, I'd probably filter them too, though.
In my case, I picked an outlet that was closest to the panel on each leg and turned on breakers one by one recording noise levels and signal strengths using my XTBM as meter and XTB-IIR as signal source. Once I knew what circuits were problems, I then found the sources of noise/signal suckers. I picked the worst ones and filtered them (computers, entertainment center, refrigerator, washing machine, cell phone chargers). I had a pretty good signal everywhere, but found another few filterlinc's on ebay for cheap, so I went ahead and filtered a couple other items that were marginal (e.g., TiVo).
This is a time consuming process, but it does make a large difference in reliability.
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My experience was that adding the XTB-IIR and a few filters solved my PLC problems for all but 1 module. I still have some noise generated by my dryer control board and my furnace control board. But, with the XTB-IIR and those other issues sorted by filters, these last 2 biggies were not enough to warrant the trouble fixing them. If there were an easy way to filter them without voiding warranties, I'd probably filter them too, though.
In my case, I picked an outlet that was closest to the panel on each leg and turned on breakers one by one recording noise levels and signal strengths using my XTBM as meter and XTB-IIR as signal source. Once I knew what circuits were problems, I then found the sources of noise/signal suckers. I picked the worst ones and filtered them (computers, entertainment center, refrigerator, washing machine, cell phone chargers). I had a pretty good signal everywhere, but found another few filterlinc's on ebay for cheap, so I went ahead and filtered a couple other items that were marginal (e.g., TiVo).
This is a time consuming process, but it does make a large difference in reliability.
When I installed my XTB-IIR, I wired it to allow for future testing. Jeff had suggested wiring up the two new breakers (one on each phase) to a dedicated a 220V outlet, and then wiring a plug to the XTB-IIR. I took his advice, but I went one step further. I added a 110V duplex outlet in the same box, which I split-wired (top outlet to one phase, bottom to the other). That gives me a dedicated outlet on each phase, with nothing else on that circuit (other than the XTB-IIR, of course). I can now turn off EVERY breaker (other than the XTB-IIR one), and get a true baseline of noise generated on each circuit one at a time. When I (eventually) get myself an XTBM, I'll have a great spot to plug it in to get a baseline, before testing on each branch circuit. I clearly marked the front coverplate of the box "FOR X10 ONLY", which should prevent stupid mistakes.
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Man, you guys are energetic.
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I added a 110V duplex outlet in the same box, which I split-wired (top outlet to one phase, bottom to the other).
Now that's a good idea! I did it the hard way when debugging my one trouble module. I took a 15A outlet and put hot, neutral, ground wires on and wired it directly into a breaker. It was a pain in the but and a little sketchy. The 12AWG wire helped keep it in place, but it's certainly not as slick as your setup. If I hadn't already mapped my house, I'd seriously consider adding an outlet like yours!
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Just as a follow-up to this, I was able to get my target lamp working. I narrowed the issue down to 2 large-offending signal suckers -- one on the same circuit as my SC1200 and the other on the same circuit as the target lamp. I got two Filterlincs from eBay to fix the problem. I also picked up one of the 220v dryer-plug phase couplers I mentioned earlier, the 4816 I believe. I'm not sure if I need that, but it doesn't hurt I guess.
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Thank you for the update and that you had success.