D677
A C
2F 4
E-C L
E-B L
C-E L
C-B L
B-E .624
B-C .621
Test Pin Old New
E-C 1-2 L L
E-B 1-3 L L
C-E 2-1 L L
C-B 2-3 L L
B-E 3-1 .618 .625
B-C 3-2 .615 .623
E-C 18.61
E-B 0
C-B 18.61
...it's not that easy to read which is most likely why I wrote down the wrong number.It's probably a common problem as most online listings use 61-2677b, likely to avoid confusion.
D6 68 volt zener diode from the Collector to ground.
Aren't D1 and D2 the diodes I originally replaced? One of them was 18V.OK - I didn't recall you mentioning replacing any zeners.
Component | Part Number | Correct value | Actual value | Isolated? | Good? |
C1 | 220p Line Rated | 220pF | where is this located? | ||
C2 | 2u2 MY (mylar) | 2.2uF | 2.25uF | yes | yes |
C3 | 220n MY (mylar) | 220nF | 214.8nF | yes | yes |
C4 | 100p (100) | 10pF | .25nF | no | bad? |
C5 | 1000u 25V | could not measure | yes | replaced | |
C6 | 1n5 PP | 1.5nF | 1.63nF (from memory) | yes | yes |
C7 | 2n2 CD (222) | 2.2nF | 2.54nF | no | yes |
C8 | 220p CD | 220pF | 10.81nF | no | bad? |
D1 | BZX85C18 18V 1W | yes | replaced | ||
D2 | 1N4002 | yes | replaced | ||
D3 | 1N4148 | no | yes | ||
D4 | 1N4148 | no | yes | ||
D5 | 1N4148 | no | yes | ||
D6 | zPY68 | 18V | 18.34V when not transmitting (0.591V/0L) | yes | yes |
D7 | red transmit | no | yes | ||
F1 | fuse wire | 0 | 0 | no | yes |
L1 | 150u | yes | yes? No way to test | ||
Q1 | 2SD667 | yes | replaced | ||
R1 | 3k3 | 3.3k | 3.3k | no | yes |
R2 | 22 1/2W | 22 | 24 | no | yes |
R3 | 330k 1/2W | 330k | 329 | no | yes? Takes a long time to get up to full resistance |
R4 | 1k5 | 1.5k | 10 | no | no? |
R5 | 1M | 1M | 0.998M | no | yes |
R6 | 10 | 10 | 9.9 | no | yes |
R7 | 1k5 | 1.5k | 1.483k | no | yes |
R8 | 4k7 | 4.72k | 4.72k | no | yes |
R9 | 3k3 | 3.3k | 3.3k | no | yes |
I didn't see the 220P capacitor in the photos. X10 most likely didn't use one in that model.
...R3 still takes a long tome to reach full resistance.That's odd. I'd replace it if I had another on hand.
Any thougts on the correct orientation? I believe the line should be on the side the arrow points in the schematic, right?Right.
Correct, I needed a mini project and this fit the bill ;DYeah, I understand that. I have a dead Smarthome Maxi Controller that I have been trying to fix for two years. It started out as a bad filter cap, but now the target seems to be moving. I think I have soldered on the miniscule PC board runs too much, and should toss it, but it has become a mission.