X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => User Modified Devices => Topic started by: WildBill47 on April 03, 2009, 11:26:51 PM
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I needed a way to use a regular wall mounted thermostat to turn a window Air-Conditioner on/off, the problem was that I was renting at the time so I could not route wires to control say a PowerFlash, I did not want wires running down the wall looking ugly, and there was no power plug anywhere near the Thermostat.
So the solution I came up with was to modify a MS12A Motion Sensor to be triggered by a LUX TX-9000 Programmable thermostat. I picked the LUX 9000 for two reasons, it ran off of 3VDC the same as the MS12A and there was enough room in the case to fit the PCB of the MS12A in the LUX and have nothing showing. When the LUX went triggered to "Cool" it tripped the modified MS12A to send an On Command on the House/Unit Code I selected, and when the temp dropped to where the LUX went Off of Cool, the modified MS12A sent an OFF command. I used a TM751 to pick-up the MS12A commands and put them on the house wires and an X-10 PAM04 220VAC 20A Appliance Module to turn on the window Air conditioner. It worked perfectly!
Now of course this could be used to trigger any X-10 Module and by anything, my specific mod deals with that the on/off from the LUX was 3VDC, but in the link to my web page on this there is a link to another site that has the same modificiation for dry contacts, so a relay, switch, whatever. I also linked a PDF which is higher resolution than the Web page and full instructons with pictures on how to make the modification.
Hope someone finds this handy, I think it would be great for X-10 to make an RF version of the PowerFlash but until then these mods really work well!
My page is at: http://people.delphiforums.com/wildbill47/X10/LUX_MS12A_Mod1.htm (http://people.delphiforums.com/wildbill47/X10/LUX_MS12A_Mod1.htm)
BTW -- This is a very "green" solution to not coming home to a HOT house or even using your Window AC thermostat control to turn it on and off, my kill-o-watt showed that less than 2 watts were used total verses the nearly 50 watts the AC unit used even when not running but in the "On" position. Since the LUX was progammable for 4 settings per day I had a cool down before I got home, let it get hotter while I was asleep, and cooled down before I woke up, and this was before anyone cared about energy problems, I just did not like the 400 buck electric bills, they dropped over 50% with this in place.
WildBill
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Thank you very much for the great modification. >!
Helpful Post from me.
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Hi WildBill47, many thanks for this Mod. It has many uses with this application.
A Helpfull awarded for a fine job.
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Very nicely documented project! I've given you a helpful also.
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>! Nice Mod !!
I think I will be using this after we get moved in the new house............
#:) Get a "Helpful" from me !!
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WildBill47:
Very useful post. Thanks for the good work.
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A helpful posting. Now all I have to do is figure out how I will use it in my system. Thanks.........
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I used a TM751 to pick-up the MS12A commands and put them on the house wires and an X-10 PAM04 220VAC 20A Appliance Module to turn on the window Air conditioner. It worked perfectly!
??? What module would you use if your A/C unit wasn't 220? Would a 3 pin Appliance Module work?
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I used a TM751 to pick-up the MS12A commands and put them on the house wires and an X-10 PAM04 220VAC 20A Appliance Module to turn on the window Air conditioner. It worked perfectly!
??? What module would you use if your A/C unit wasn't 220? Would a 3 pin Appliance Module work?
You will need to do a little homework for this one, not much but a little. You need to find out 2-3 things to be on the totally safe side, the HP (Hourse Power) rating of the AC Unit, the Watts it draws and the Amps.
For Example the AM466 Appliance Module is rated at 1/3 HP Max for a motor load and 15A for Resistive load, a motor load is really and inductive load that that is the more important rating. I suspect this would be marginal for anything but a small Window AC Unit.
The Pro Modules are harder to find specs on, at least for me, so you will want to contact X-10 or X-10 Pro to get the specs you need for say the XPD-3 that says it is 120VAC 20A 1800W but no HP rating I could find, or the XPS-I that is a wall switch with a higher rating but again not enough specifics that I can say yes it is the right one.
So your best bet, gets the specs off of the AC unit you want to control, and shoot an E-Mail to X-10 or X-10 Pro, or just call them.
Good Luck
You will need to contact X-10 as I could not find a manual for the Pro Module
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I used a TM751 to pick-up the MS12A commands and put them on the house wires and an X-10 PAM04 220VAC 20A Appliance Module to turn on the window Air conditioner. It worked perfectly!
??? What module would you use if your A/C unit wasn't 220? Would a 3 pin Appliance Module work?
Just wanted to add one other note, anytime you are dealing with high current (Amps) things you really want to take proper care to make all connections properly, never add say a 20A socket where a 15A one was before, same for Wall switches as the feed wiring is likely too light to deal with a real 20A load and can cause a fire at worse or keep blowing the 15A breaker at the other end at best. (Plus you will be out of electrical codes in all 50 states if you do)
This is not to scare you off but low current things give you a tiny bit my slack, not that you should ever count on it but it is true, high current stuff wants good clean wires ends secured by screws very tight where connections are made, in the case of sockets, they should be good and tight fit on the plugs that go in, cords should be short, extension cords avoided, etc. When in doubt ask an electrician, most are civil enough to answer your question on the phone for free:)
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Thank you to all that gave me a "helpful" it was my pleasure to share. I must say I love this "user mod" section, I hope more folks add cool stuff in the future, I have very much enjoyed reading what others have done and been impressed with the creativity of many of them!
My hat is off to X-10 also for allowing a section like this, just further supports how I have felt about X10 for many years, great company! >!
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i am very interested in this mod for cycling a 220v ac unit that does remember its last state when power is lost. How much would you charge for parts and labor to build me one of these units? i would love to make one but honestly it looks very complicated so i think for me purchasing is the only option. please let me know if you would consider doing this, you can email me at tblack716 at yahoo.com Thanks for your consideration-TIM
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All you need is a XPFM2 it takes half the amperage of the total amperage since it only shuts off one leg of the circuit. I have 2 of these running 2 1000W lights with no problems.
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Half the amperage?
If a load is strictly 220. The total amperage of the load flows through both wires. Not half in each one.
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I think the RF version of the power-flash is the DS10a? Make contact, it sends a signal. Break contact, it sends a signal...
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Can this setup be used with a Honeywell Chronotherm IV Thermostat, connected to a 4 wire 24V system running an all electric A/C & Heat Pump? The Thermostat uses 3 AA batteries and is similar to this one http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/69-0000s/69-1536.pdf (http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/69-0000s/69-1536.pdf), with the same wall plate, but manual switch for heat/cool/off and fan on/auto.
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Probably. All the MS12A needs after the mod, is a contact closure from the thermostat. Do you know if the thermostat uses relays for the outputs to the heatpump/air handler? Relays will usually appear to be small metal or plastic cans on the PC board. If you can't tell, post a picture of the componet side of the pc board.
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Not sure about relays. Or which wires to hook up to moded MS12A. Also, do I need independent power source for MS12A, because thermostat uses 3 AA batteries (4.5V)? Or, I can always buy a thermostat that uses 2 batteries (3V). I have photos, but can't seem to load them. I have posted them here: http://img98.imageshack.us/g/img00037201103150236.jpg/ (http://img98.imageshack.us/g/img00037201103150236.jpg/). Thanks, in advance.
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Anyone know how to do this mod with a MS14A
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The same way. :'
Circuitry is the same in that area.
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Can you tell me how to use the lux 9000 with a powerflash interface? Thanks.
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southtoms; Are you trying to add a Powerflash to an existing TX9000TS or TX9000A connected to an heating and cooling system or just use one to trigger a powerflash module by itself?
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I'm trying to get the lux 9000TS to activate the power flash. to send a signal to a RF124 to turn on the a/c in my motorhome.
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I would try. Setting the Powerflash to "B" Dry Contact
Connect the two terminals of the Powerflash to the TX9000TS {RC-RH} and Y terminals.
Using the Cool setting on the TX9000TS.
Remember the thermostat has a short cycle protector in it to prevent the AC from starting too soon after turning off. So it may take up to 5 minutes for it to kick on. Depending on where you set the parameter too.