X10 Community Forum
🛡Home Security => Home Security General => Topic started by: desi77 on July 05, 2012, 08:28:47 PM
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My modded siren worked grate, but today it won't trip when my alarm goes off. So i took to my brother's place since he has same system,it works there
Is it possible that my sc1200 some how not communicating with mini modded power horn.
any suggestions?
maybe my wifi getting in the way?
B:(
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My modded siren worked grate, but today it won't trip when my alarm goes off. So i took to my brother's place since he has same system,it works there
Is it possible that my sc1200 some how not communicating with mini modded power horn.
any suggestions?
maybe my wifi getting in the way?
B:(
No. power line noise is likely getting in the way. The siren is triggered by signals on the powerline from the 1200, not RF signals.
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
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thanks for your replay
so wires in my house getting the way? i try to put my modded power horn and main unit but still didn't work, i tried 20 times and out of 20 about 3 times it actually worked.
my back around not in electric so when i read provide info it just doesn't make sense to me lol sorry...what is the solution for it
or all i got to do is buy PSC04? maybe i should relocating upstairs or something
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Is the SC1200s House Code and Light Code Correct?
Do you have any other X10 modules you can control with the SC1200s keypad and do they still work?
If no X10 modules can be controlled by the SC1200. You may have power line problems as pointed out or the SC1200s power line transmitter has failed.
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Is the SC1200s House Code and Light Code Correct?
Do you have any other X10 modules you can control with the SC1200s keypad and do they still work?
If no X10 modules can be controlled by the SC1200. You may have power line problems as pointed out or the SC1200s power line transmitter has failed.
Yes House and Light code correct, cause it works 1 out of 15 try and it also worked on first try at my brother's house.
I have key chain pad and black pad(forgot the name of it) but they all works from anywhere inside of my home.
i have try to put sc1200 and minipower horn beside eachother too, so it can't be range thing.
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Is it possible your power company has reduced you line voltage for added summer loads?
If your relay is getting lower than 12 volts and was marginal. Lowering the line voltage may just push it over the edge of working or not.
I know the relay you are using used more power than the one the original modifications used.
I will look at your thread and see if I can determine if your white wires where the way I found gave a higher voltage.
Yes which white wire in my tests was on the diode made a difference in the voltage on the relay.
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If diode is the reason i can always try the otherway around. But i thought relay only needs .5amp to energize coils.
I do have my ac on in my house, maybe that something, eatiing up most of power
over this weekend i will try new relay too, like you said maybe its not getting enough power to trip.
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I looked at your R44-1D2-12 relay spec, it says at 12VDC nominal it consumes 360mw power so this translates to 30ma of nominal current to switch the relay. COmparing this to the radioshack reed relay part#275-0233 (suggested by other forum thread and the one I used) requires 10ma nominal and finally comparing this to the ELK-924 relay which requires 1ma to switch. If power line noise is not your problem then, you might be in at hairy edge barely supplying enough current to your relay as suggested by Brian. A lower AC voltage at your house would produce a lower current output for your relay
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You could try the white wires reversed and see if anything changes.
Don't reverse the diodes band to the relay.
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Both of you guys got "Helpful Post"" from me...
i got another relay which i will try , but before that i will try to switching my white wires.
new relay is Remtech PRMA2A12, it should require less power to trip.
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PRMA2A12 has a typical coil resistance of 500 Ohms. That is 24 ma at 12 volts {288 mw}. Not much less than the relay you are now using.
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yes i did test at my work, it is less but like you said not much. But if this doesn't work than i have head to closest radioshack and find that relay.
so i need relay with less resistance (100-200 Ohms)?
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No more resistance for its voltage rating.
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No more resistance for its voltage rating.
Bro not sure what you meant? But keep in mind I read this after having few beers lol
>!
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You want a more sensitive relay. That uses less power to activate.
You want a 12 volt relay with a higher resistance so it uses less current that translates to less power to activate it.
I used a few surplus 12 volt reed relays I got from Allelectronics.
A DUNCO MRR1AD130 that has a coil of 1400 Ohms.
A Magnecraft 107DIP-3 that has a coil of 1200 Ohms.
Unfortunately both seem to be no longer listed on the Allelectronics site.
The Radio Shack 275-233 pointed out in the construction thread has a 1050 Ohm Coil.
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Brian
Listen to this, I turn off my AC and my mini mod power horn works every time ..
Than I turn on my AC and right away my modded power horn doesn't work.. What gives man..
But anyways I'll kind of know issue when my system works and doesn't.. So I'll try to find relay with high resistance.
Thanks
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Central AC or a window unit? Sounds like the AC is generating noise on the powerline.
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Central AC or a window unit? Sounds like the AC is generating noise on the powerline.
Central ac bro
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I may be clutching at straws here but
if you have an electronic filter on your central air they arc and spark like crazy when they need a cleaning.
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I may be clutching at straws here but
if you have an electronic filter on your central air they arc and spark like crazy when they need a cleaning.
How would I know if I have electronic filter on my AC?
I don't think so any idea what it looks like?
Thanks for help
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It would be a large unit usually the size of carry on luggage attached to the front end (return) of your fan/blower. It would have a metal or fiber box that would be pulled out. The fiber ones need to be replaced yearly and the metal ones need to be washed routinely.
If you have a pullout filter screen only about one inch thick then you probably do not have an electronic one.
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The higher coil resistance is not going to do anything about you Ac's signal sucking or power line noise making.
It may help the sirens electronics to work less.
Another thought besides the electronic air filter.
If the AC has electronic controls. It may have some internal power line filters on the controls portion, to keep it from putting noise on the power lines.
We have seen modern things like washers, dryers and refrigerators with electronic controls causing X10 and Insteon problems. That the older mechanically controlled models did not. Progress. ::)
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I think CJHallX and Brian H are on to something. Think you may need to invest in a filter for the AC unit or a Jeff Volp gizmo to attenuate the noise. One thought: When I put an electric air cleaner on my HVAC unit, the transformer killed my X10 system. My air cleaner stays energized all the time, not just when the furnace/air runs. The sparking on the grid wans't the problem, but the power supply was. A filter wired into the system fixed the problem.
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I am trying to get a clear understanding of what that filter looks like
http://www.tdk-lambda.com/products/sps/nf/mx13/indexe.html
or
http://www.smarthome.com/1626-10/FilterLinc-10-Amp-Plug-In-Noise-Filter/p.aspx
is it something like this i need to change in my panel? It couldn't be any extra part for my ac outside because my alarm works when my neighbour's ac runs. So it has to be where the wire of my ac is plugged in..
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Very had to say exactly what you are going to need to do.
It will depend on what needed to be filtered.
Most likely an electronic control or the electronic air filter.
Trying to filter the whole AC would need a filter of unbelievable size.
The TDK filter you linked to has a filter range that is not too far away from X10's 120KHz but the filter curve is not too clear on how far it would remove around the X10 power line frequency. Though I doubt your AC is three phase which is what the filter is made for.
The FilterLinc is a small plug in one for appliances.
A wired in one like an X10Pro XPF may work if you can isolate the part of the AC making the trouble.
I wounder if one of the JV Engineering X10 booster or coupler repeater would blast the X10 signal strong enough to overcome the noise or signal absorption.
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FWIW
I had a noisy control board in a Lennox HVAC unit. Knocked out at least half the house from X10 control.
The board had 120V input and an on board switching supply. All I did mount an in-line filter in the air handler and fed the controller board from it.
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guys i did the unthinkable...... i listen to what my wife had to say ;D lolz
She reminded me that i have electrical panel in basement just below where i was trying to use my modded power horn, so as soon as my AC kicked in it must have made the panel hum or create that electrical waves that interfered with modded power horn. I just move it too other part of my home and what you know damn thing worked .... i tried 5 times no issue.. >! hopefully it will help others that might run into similar issue...
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:)+
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Moving the problem module away from an offending device to another circuit is also an option.
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I looked at your R44-1D2-12 relay spec, it says at 12VDC nominal it consumes 360mw power so this translates to 30ma of nominal current to switch the relay. COmparing this to the radioshack reed relay part#275-0233 (suggested by other forum thread and the one I used) requires 10ma nominal and finally comparing this to the ELK-924 relay which requires 1ma to switch. If power line noise is not your problem then, you might be in at hairy edge barely supplying enough current to your relay as suggested by Brian. A lower AC voltage at your house would produce a lower current output for your relay
Hi.. Could pls show the photos of ELK-924 front and back view? Just would like to get one.
Thanks pseeker
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The ELK924 is a small PC Board with some electronics on it.
Powered by a 12 or 24 volt DC supply. Selected by a jumper.
Has a very low current trigger input. Does not load down the trigger source much.
Can be a + or - Trigger depending on which input you use on the terminal block.
ELK924 Web page. Both the specifications sheet and users manual are there for the download.
http://www.elkproducts.com/product-catalog/elk-924-sensitive-relay