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[artk]

I have a clock with a Fluorescent Bulb around the face. It has a transformer plug at the end of the wire. I pluged it into an appliance module and the light will not turn off.

[Puck]

Fluorescent lights & appliance modules is a very popular topic on the board. 

Check this out, it's about a different module, but the same topic and a link there is for the appliance module:

Topic: problem with appliance module  (Read 1615 times)

[TakeTheActive]

I have a clock with a Fluorescent Bulb... ...I pluged it into an appliance module and the light will not turn off.

WAG: The fluorescent light is generating SO MUCH NOISE when turned on that the appliance module can no longer "hear" any X10 PLC commands.

[HA Dave]

I have a clock with a Fluorescent Bulb around the face. It has a transformer plug at the end of the wire. I plugged it into an appliance module and the light will not turn off.

I have a clock with a NEON bulb around it's face. The clock itself uses a battery, the light needs the transformed power supply. I have seen similar clocks at several vendors.

I use my clock as part of my home theater set-up. The sub-woofer, and a video sender are on separate units with the same code setting. Turning on the clock "shows" me the other devices are also on (as well as providing popcorn eating light). The blue neon is a nice muted light.

That is actually my 2nd neon clock (I broke the 1st one). Nether clock has given me any noise problem.

[artk]

Dave, Yes, I have the same clock. Are you saying it should work?

[Brian H]

If you can hear the Appliance Module's CLUNK sound when addressed then the light is not making noise to prevent the X10 signals reaching it.
If it turns off but the light still glows. It is the Local sensing Current previously mentioned. As a test. Use a small 7 watt incandescent light bulb with a adapter so bot the clock and the light are on the appliance modules switched outlet. If the glow is gone with the added light. It is Local Sensing Current.
I believe the link Puck provided may give you the needed data and there are mods to the module to stop this current.

[HA Dave]

Dave, Yes, I have the same clock. Are you saying it should work?

Well, no.... but maybe it should work. The appliance modules have a distinive click (or clunk) when they open and close. And the advice below is really good information. But I would try this 1st.

1.   UNplug the clock, but leave the appliance module plugged in (with nothing plugged into it) at the same location. You should hear it click-clunk off and on.

If it does you can be reasonablly sure that it's not a phase problem.

2.  Next try moving the appliance module (with the clock plugged IN) closer to your transceiver. This will check to see if you were a little too close to the end of the line.

If the appliance module worked by itself (step 1), and the clock still doesn't work closer to the transceiver (step 2). You'll know it's the clock.

[TakeTheActive]

1.   UNplug the clock, but leave the appliance module plugged in (with nothing plugged into it) at the same location. You should hear it click-clunk off and on.

Since the OP is unclear on this, GOOD POINT Dave!   The presence, or absence, of the CLUNK is the KEY!

[Don't like the LIST idea, eh? ]

[artk]

Sorry I don't understand. The appliance clicks on and off. It's about 10' from the  CM15A . When I unplug the clock the light shuts off.
I've also noticed whenever I make a change to a timer on the  CM15A , it takes about 24 hours to work correctly.

[Puck]

It's about 10' from the  CM15A .

The  CM15A  is now 15' away... (from Wall Outlet problems)

artk: I'm seeing a pattern here and just want to make sure you understand something (hoping that it helps make more sense out of some suggestions)... Physical distance between the CM15A and a Module (eg Appliance Module) is irrelevant. What is important is it's electrical distance. The two units could be visually very close, but if they are on a different electrical circuits (ie breakers) then the electrical distance can be quite large (ie from the CM15A to the breaker panel then back to the module).

The thing to understand also is other electrical products plugged into other outlets on the same circuits can cause problems for X10 signals.

I hope I didn't confuse you more... 

[TakeTheActive]

Sorry I don't understand. The appliance clicks on and off...

GREAT!

So, the problem is probably the Local Control Sensing Current (being sufficient enough to maintain the light).

Install a cube tap on the Appliance Module and add a 7 Watt Nightlight along with your Neon Clock. Tell us what happens then...

[artk]

Looked around the house for a night light and found 3. All the bulbs were dead. I'll have to get new ones and try this.
Thanks,
artk

[Brian H]

Good keep us informed.

[TakeTheActive]

Good keep us informed.

Ditto!

P.S. You do realize that the old-style Christmas bulbs (was the designation C-7 or C-9 ) were essentially colored nightlights, right?

[Brian H]

Well some of us remember those old C type lights.   I just found an OLD box of them marked C7 1/2 and 5 Watts.