Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[KDR]

No...  actualy the strip only has 6 outlets and it is also a surge protector. I just noticed that. That could spell problems for a X10 signal. I will have to give it a try soon since I did get it for the purpose of plugging my camera wall warts into.

[ArdentGuy]

I appreciate all the comments, suggestions and discussion.  However my question remains unanswered:

• If I disable the current sensing circuits, can I eliminate the bulk of the quiescent current consumption?
• How do I go about not only defeating the current sensing feature of the chip (cut lead at D10 diode) but also defeat the couple of watts sent down the line to "sense" local control?

I would be happy as a clam to leave all my X10 modules/switches in place IF I can defeat the current sensing feature.  [This assumes that most of the quiescent load is spent on this function.]  I don't need nor want local control.  I'm more than happy to rely 100% on getting X10 signals through the house.  So without getting into a discussion on "why you need local control", please offer any ideas for defeating local control.

Other than low wattage load, here's a problem that "local control" is causing at Christmas.  My wife put up 650 LED Christmas lights on one of her trees.  The entire load is 42 watts (!).  I am trying to use an X-10 module to control this Christmas tree.  I've tried a lamp module and then I tried an appliance module with the same results.  I can turn the module on and of...however when the module is off, the LEDs have a very faint glow.  The LEDs are pulling 3.5 watts from the module.  If I can defeat the current sensing feature of X10 modules/switches, I can use X10 to control LED Christmas lights as well as the 87 other control points in the house.

Can anyone offer help?  To repeat:  I've already been to http://www.idobartana.com/hakb/index.htm where I learned to cut the lead of the D10 diode to defeat current sensing.  This modification cuts the control line from the microchip (defeats local control) but does not shut off the 3.5 watts going down to the load (the local control sensing current).  What else do I need to do?

Thank you in advance for your help.

[steven r]

...I can turn the module on and of...however when the module is off, the LEDs have a very faint glow....

As mentioned several other places but easier to retype than link, try plugging in a small night with the LEDs. That should be enough to solve the problem.

[steven r]

I just got a couple of the outlet strips that TTA posted about awhile back. The outlets are turned which allows you to plug a wart into it without blocking one.

[TTA TIP] 7-Outlet Side-by-Side Power Strips  (Read 1048 times) [<-- Photo here ]

• What STORE?
• What STATE?
• What PRICE?

[/b]

Please add your info to the OP if necessary. [Photo too, if possible. ]

Thanks!

Here's a useful type.

[ArdentGuy]

...I can turn the module on and of...however when the module is off, the LEDs have a very faint glow....

As mentioned several other places but easier to retype than link, try plugging in a small night with the LEDs. That should be enough to solve the problem.

Yes...yes...I've read THAT work-around in several places.  But rather than add a 4 to 7 watt load to the low LED load, it would be more elegant to simply eliminate the "local control sensing current".  I'm not trying to control only one LED tree -- there are three (3) LED strings on the back deck, two doorways lined with LEDs, LEDs on the front rail, and soon to be LED lights on all the gutters.  There are going to be over a dozen LED Christmas lights control points.  To add a 4 to 7 watt night light at all locations to provide a drain path for the "local control sensing current" that is unwanted and not needed is not a viable solution.  Plus it doesn't solve the 3.5 watt power drain on the other 87 modules.

Thanks for your comment...but my question is how to eliminate the "local control sensing current"...not how to work around it.

[vhoang]

Removing Local Control: 

http://www.x10community.com/marko/am486_s.gif
http://x10ideas.com/articles/displayx10article.asp?articleid=26
http://www.x10community.com/marko/2006/06/disabling_the_local_control_fe.html

[JeffVolp]

[li]If I disable the current sensing circuits, can I eliminate the bulk of the quiescent current consumption?[/li]

No, that is just a small fraction of the current drain.

The modules also do not consume as much power as you say.  Much of the power is imaginary, and is only accurately measured with a "true RMS" type of meter.

Jeff

[TakeTheActive]

No...  actualy the strip only has 6 outlets and it is also a surge protector...

Oops!

The 7-outlet strips from Target/Walmart allow for 4 X10 non-transceiver (antenna won't fit)  modules - if needed, 1 transceiver can go at the end.

If I didn't already have so many "spare" lamp modules (which came with package deals), I'd use Socket Rockets for my indicator lights. But, even then, 25 watt and higher bulbs are big enough that they're getting "close" together (the old 7 watt standard base red is getting harder to find and *EXPENSIVE* ).

I might have to search for some of those C-7 to standard base adapters that you used to see around and start using all the old Noma Christmas Lights (anyone remember that name?)

[TakeTheActive]

Here's a useful type: Circuit City: Power Sentry 5-Outlet Power Multiplier PWS100596 @ $14.95_ _

Ouch! I can get close to 3 Target/Walmart 7-outlet strips (12 X10 module available outlets) for that amount of cash!!

[dave w]

I recently measured the power consumption of a dozen modules and switches.  The average power consumption (in the off state) is a meager 3.5 watts. 

ArdentGuy
Jeff is right, the amount of current consumed by the local sense circuit is a small portion of the modules total standby power consumption. To verify, remeasure your modules with and with-out the load plugged in. The current measured with-out a load will be very close to the current with the local sense current eliminated. My bet is: it will barely move the needle.

[steven r]

Here's a useful type: Circuit City: Power Sentry 5-Outlet Power Multiplier PWS100596 @ $14.95_ _

What I liked about the one I posted was that each plug would accept an oversized plug. Also if any of the large wall warts were heat sensitive they were away from each other. I posted it as an example. I've seen less expensive ones of the same type also. Some with surge protection and some without.